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Still available . . .

Apparently $400 is too much? Somebody make me an offer, any offer, I promise I won't be offended. Save me the trouble of putting them on ebay. :-) They're just collecting dust in my garage . . .

Are you looking for a complete engine, or just a block/rotating assembly? I have a short block+ in need of a rebuild (sounds like a rod knock, but ran when pulled) . . .

I switched back to ceramic coated stock headers. These are in decent condition and didn't leak when I pulled them off. The turbo flange has been resurfaced within the last couple years. Asking $400 but will entertain all reasonable offers. I'm located in the Everett area, just a few minutes from...

ok i pulled it back apart before it even got dry cleaned everything out. is it ok to pull the oil pump gears out and make sure nothing is on them to?

where did you get that rebuild kit from?? thanks and the seal was a regular modern style seal. im refering to the one that some of the cars had as a rope seal. but the one i have that little spring that goes all the way around was on the back side of the one that was in the car the new one...

can anyone tell me where to find that rubber o-ring that goes between the filter housing and the oil cooler adapter?

call me stupid....so that paper thin gasket between the oil pump and filter housing. i used i very thin layer of gasket maker on either side of that. I just read somewhere that is kinda a no-no? i didn't pack it with Vaseline either. all i was going in there to do was replace that gasket. also...

ok well that looks pretty simple. thank you. now my next question. call me stupid....so that paper thin gasket between the oil pump and filter housing. i used i very thin layer of gasket maker on either side of that. I just read somewhere that is kinda a no-no? i didn't pack it with Vaseline...

ok so here i am again. pulled the timing chain cover off and replaced the timing chain. i turned it over a couple times by hand to get to TDC. So my question is what do I have to do to get the cam position sensor set? I pulled the whole sensor out of the cover and put it back exactly where it...

I looked around couldn't find anything about this. What is the torque on the head bolts? I have ARP head bolts that I just got. I believe they are torque to yield? so I should have a torque number then how much farther do I need to go for the yield part? and what is the sequence? do I start in...

why do I need to do the timing while the heads are off? this is the first time iv'e been into an engine this far thats not just for practicing purposes. I went to school for auto mechanics but its been awhile. any helpful hints are always welcome... thanks

hey sorry about the confusion... this is Sams brother. he told me just to use his account cause I'm working on the car so it would be faster then relaying everything :rolleyes: my bad for the confusion guys.

Are those freeze plugs anywhere near the up pipe to turbo gasket? cause pretty much all the coolant I saw was coming around that area and it looked like it was kind spattering from somewhere very near that. at the time I thought it was just coming out that up pipe to turbo gasket cause i had...

I will check on the freeze plugs for sure. however should I pull the timing chain cover? it looks like to me right behind the water pump that the coolant goes through that timing chain cover into the block? and there is a gasket behind that. is there any chance it could be leaking out of that...

so would you guys go with a 3 or 5 angle? and I'm actually Sam's brother. car is stored out here in Wyoming and I'm the lucky one that gets to do all the work. :rolleyes: But Ken, thank you for the multiple offers! to bad the car isn't up there....

well if I'm gonna do it i mind as well do it all the way :) Iv'e heard some arguments about resurfacing the heads without resurfacing the block that it can leave you with a uneven surface? what are your guys thoughts on that. I'm planning on taking the heads to a machine shop and having them do...

ok. thanks guys. looks like i'll just stick with my ATR headers for now and have the up pipe machined flat cause its way out. :cool:

stock cast iron heads off of my 87 GN. If I where to have a valve job done what kind of angle would you guys recommend or would you even bother with doing a valve job? thanks

No and No :( and Joel i didn't see anything floating in there. but i tore it down anyway just to see what the insides looked like. the head gaskets looked fine and there where no visible cracks. somebody mentioned to me it could be the water pump spraying out of a weep hole or bypass...