make sure your using a 3/8 air line and a low restriction dis-connect. 90psi at the regulator through 1/4 line will be 70-80psi at the tool. also check the inlet of the tool, thier will be a mesh screen in there. if this is dirty or clogged, tool performance will suffer.
saw a thread on this a while back but didn't want to go through all those pages. what will be the cost of manual, will it contain in depth modifications to trans/valve body or just general overhaul procedures. thanks for sticking with it and congraduations on completion!
mine went in fairly well ( 4-6hrs), no dents. how are your motor mounts? put mine up on stands, took crossover down and torqued motor over to drivers side with a strap. had to persuade pipe between motor and frame rail but after that it was fairly easy.
i think these small leaks seal themselves up when exhaust is up to temp. next time you have it apart, look for black marks on the flange surfaces. should see imprint from the opposing surface, if you see any trails away from sealing surface you have an exhaust leak.
i found a bunch of new gm cams at my buddies shop, still in factory packages but i can't find any specs on them. here are the gm numbers off of the boxes.
1264395
1254202
1249464
1357868
361995...
made one up using a condensate drain housing( aluminum 2 piece housing w/ o-ring seal. can find @ mcmaster-carr), filled with steel wool (fine mesh inserts on both sides to keep wool from migrating). small enough to mount vertically in-line (allows oil to drain back into block). been using for...
with all the talk lately about alky being able to cool intake charge suffeciently, i would think that a stock location intercooler WITH the dutt neck PLUS alky would be the only way to go. less weight, piping, hassle are all big pluses in my book. i will be doing the dutt neck soon, might try...
make sure the brake switch is making contact. i removed the cover on the switch and found the contacts were dirty, had to sand them with some fine sandpaper and adjust switch position.
had similar problems with mine. by-passed soleniod on the starter and installed remote soleniod, upgraded ALL ground wiresto heavier gauge wire and wire from battery to alternator. i've currently got my battery in the trunk and haven't had any troubles in the past year.
i am currently using a "grainger" valve with wastegate soleniod in place. i am also using an ANS soleniod controller. i set the grainger valve for 10-15psi, set actuator rod to open with chip control at 21-23psi, then use the ANS controller to go up or down from there. i get the quick spool-up...
i remember when you converted yours over, last i knew there were going to be more details to follow. i must have been sniffing too many exhaust fumes because i didn't see anything else on it. i'm wanting to do this over the winter and just wondering if anyone has put a kit together or put up a...