Recent content by Steve Evans

I drove up last year in the rain. What a treat. The Drag Radias have even less tread this year. The slicks will be replacing the back seat, I guess they won't help in the rain!

I went with the Autometer gauge and used the Kenne bell fuel line. It was the cleanest way to route the line. No holes drilled through the hood other that the four self tappers underneath.

I have never done any re-covering work before and found this job to be quite easy. Getting the head rests out was the hardest part. The TR gray is not an exact color match, but to darn close to haggle over. Especially when you driver's seat has tears in it. The fit, cut, and design are...

Sorry to be of no help, but....Can you contact Cyberdine to ask, the vendor you bought it from, etc.? I would imagine the sending unit had two posts, no?

I passed with Joe's emissions chip, 42# of f/p (line off), 3" cat and mod'd engine (no egr, etc). I had the charcoal canister in, but the fule vapro trurn line was not hooked up. I disconnet\cted my w/g rod. The car passed with the SAME emissions as when it was stock. Good luck, you'll do fine.

SMC Enterprises (270) 522-9376, or e-mail Steve at schlupsa@kih.net

Again, depends on how you use your car. If the street is where you spend most of your time, go alky. You won't be sorry. SMS is the best kit in my opinion.

No mixture.....Denatured Alcohol. Steve recommend adding a few shots of DW-40 to keep the pump from corroding, however I don't think it's needed with denatured. HTH

I would agree. I got seat skins form Jax and the fit/quality is excellent.

I agree with B6P. My tank lasts for quite a while. You could always turn the "spray on" setting way up, and the spray amount(?) way down for your long trips...assuming you're not racing during the trips. Keep in mind, all of Steve's settings are right in the cockpit now, you can change it on...

Most of these guys, Joe L. in particular are used to people asking for chips to run Alky. However, most people that I have heard from are just using a race chip with 20+* of timing.

CaPPY, I'm new to this term of transitional knock but have suffered from it for a while now. That sounds like a decent idea. I'm up for anything after dealing with 10* of knock at launch. From what I read in other posts, that isn't a lot, but I needed to clean my pants afterwards.

Up-pipe just before the t/b. Follow Steve's directions that come with the kit and you'll have NO troubles at all. It's a very easy and quick install. Buy some JB weld, denatured aclohol and Heavy Duty velco now to speed up the instal and enjoyment.

i'M JUMPING IN HERE A LITTLE LATE BUT NOTICED COMMENTS ABOUT "TRANSITION KNOCK" AS WELL AS KNOCK WHEN YOU SMASH IT FROM A ROLL. aLL OF WHICH i AM SUFFERING FROM. WHAT EXACTLY IS TRANSITION KNOCK, AND HOW WOULD CHANGING TO A DIFFERRENT PLUG CURE IT? I WOULD LOVE TO BE ABLE TO FIGURE THIS...

Ken, That's what I was affraid of. Thanks for the reply.