Which fuel pump

What Chuck said ^^ . The most over looked area is the grounds . The wiring & connections MUST be good FROM the battery + to the pump and BACK to the battery - for it to be electrically sound . Just like your fuel line return to the tank can cause problems , your grounds back to the battery can do the same .
 
Not necessarily.....
Poor ground will also cause issues.
It's necessary to do a volt drop test on both the + and - sides.
Thank you! I've got the new pump in DW200.. running good. Still have some weird idle'ing. My IAC stays in the 100s and my BLM is 150. :( Volts on the Scanmaster G are at 13 +/- 1
 
Thank you! I've got the new pump in DW200.. running good. Still have some weird idle'ing. My IAC stays in the 100s and my BLM is 150. :( Volts on the Scanmaster G are at 13 +/- 1
Fuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?
What's the voltage at the alt?
What's the volt drop test say?
Did you unhook the ecm allow a reset?
What's idle rpm hot?
 
Fuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?
What's the voltage at the alt?
What's the volt drop test say?
Did you unhook the ecm allow a reset?
What's idle rpm hot?
I did the jumper of the aldl to reset. Does that reset the ecm? My o2 sensor reading is all over too.
 
to reset the ECM you need to unplug the connector found behind the battery or disconnect your battery wire. your choice
 
Fuel psi is? Line on and line off, vac plugged?
What's the voltage at the alt?
What's the volt drop test say?
Did you unhook the ecm allow a reset?
What's idle rpm hot?
No only disconnect orange wire in close to the battery will reset ECU
But first we need these questions answered to help
IAC way out of range
 
You have spent good money on a good quality pump properly sized for your application. (IMO) during installation did you confirm all the lines to and from the tank are open and good working order?
Fuel pressure is key to proper Idle. 43 psi is a bass starting point it is not not in stone.
IAC TPS all need to be in factory parameters.
You need to learn to walk chow gum rub your belly and pat your head all at the same time to get BLMs to 128.
Chuck and others has asked the right ? You need to write the ?s down, record the results and check them off and report back.
Then you need to get IAC and TPS closer to factory.
High BLM and 02s is to much fuel
Adjusting fuel pressure will not give you instant results more like 5 miles of drive time not 10 min of driveway time. and don't drive it like you stole it. take your grandma to DQ for ice cream.
These cars require lots of patience so you need to be a doctor , but not a protoliges pulling your head out of your A$$ and asking yourself what do it try next.
 
You have spent good money on a good quality pump properly sized for your application. (IMO) during installation did you confirm all the lines to and from the tank are open and good working order?
Fuel pressure is key to proper Idle. 43 psi is a bass starting point it is not not in stone.
IAC TPS all need to be in factory parameters.
You need to learn to walk chow gum rub your belly and pat your head all at the same time to get BLMs to 128.
Chuck and others has asked the right ? You need to write the ?s down, record the results and check them off and report back.
Then you need to get IAC and TPS closer to factory.
High BLM and 02s is to much fuel
Adjusting fuel pressure will not give you instant results more like 5 miles of drive time not 10 min of driveway time. and don't drive it like you stole it. take your grandma to DQ for ice cream.
These cars require lots of patience so you need to be a doctor , but not a protoliges pulling your head out of your A$$ and asking yourself what do it try next.
Thank you and Chuck for the help. So I reset the ECM as mentioned. Still sluggish on the start (cold). Revs up and down and almost stalls if it doesn’t stall. Gas/fume smell and while not heavy, some smoke exhaust.

Started today and here are the numbers from scanmaster.

rpm: 850
TPS: .42
IAC: 82
O2cc: 98 and 246
636 Mv ret 0.0
Maf: 5-8
Lv8: 35
Volts: 13.6
Int: 131 and 141
BLM: 150

Numbers with an and are just the second reading when cycling through the scanmaster.

@Chuck Leeper

I didn’t check the lines but the mechanic said they did. They said my fuel pressure is 30-35

Also notice when starting the vehicle. The acceleration pedal is sticking a little on initial pressure of my foot.
 
Also notice when starting the vehicle. The acceleration pedal is sticking a little on initial pressure of my foot.
this is good info and why IAC is high need to start opening the throttle blade and get IAC numbers down to 25 and readjust TPS back to .42
I didn’t check the lines but the mechanic said they did. They said my fuel pressure is 30-35
this is why BLM is high need to rase fuel pressure to 40 or 42 , vacuum line OFF and 30 to 35 is not a good number it should be a steady not moving number a rock solid 42 psi, This is bass pressure for a TT chip. If its moving you have a fuel filter or pickup screen blockage or bad regulator
 
this is good info and why IAC is high need to start opening the throttle blade and get IAC numbers down to 25 and readjust TPS back to .42

this is why BLM is high need to rase fuel pressure to 40 or 42 , vacuum line OFF and 30 to 35 is not a good number it should be a steady not moving number a rock solid 42 psi, This is bass pressure for a TT chip. If its moving you have a fuel filter or pickup screen blockage or bad regulator
Thank you for the response. Just to ask did clarity, when you say open the throttle blade, you mean open and clean it or something else?

In regards to the fuel filter just replaced it when putting in the pump. Pick up screen is in the pump correct, that’s new too as it came with pump. So let me try a new regulator. Any recommendations?
 
Thank you for the response. Just to ask did clarity, when you say open the throttle blade, you mean open and clean it or something else?

In regards to the fuel filter just replaced it when putting in the pump. Pick up screen is in the pump correct, that’s new too as it came with pump. So let me try a new regulator. Any recommendations?
To open the throttle blade just turn the adjustment screw. Most people think it’s the idle speed adjustment screw, myself included. It should be called the airflow adjustment screw or something more pertinent.
By opening the throttle blade, more air gets through the throttle body and the idle air control motor closes down to get the proper fuel mixture. An IAC of 25 is telling you where to adjust the throttle blade.
More than likely your throttle blade is completely closed and is sticking.
2 birds, 1 stone
 
To open the throttle blade just turn the adjustment screw. Most people think it’s the idle speed adjustment screw, myself included. It should be called the airflow adjustment screw or something more pertinent.
By opening the throttle blade, more air gets through the throttle body and the idle air control motor closes down to get the proper fuel mixture. An IAC of 25 is telling you where to adjust the throttle blade.
More than likely your throttle blade is completely closed and is sticking.
2 birds, 1 stone
Okay I did change that. I was on vortex and they said to do this reset procedure and I got the rpms down to lower and that’s when it felt like it struggled. However some other things got in alignment.
 
yes start turning the screw in. dose it have the little gray boot over it ? start at 1/4 turn watch the IAC and TPS , like I said you will have to learn two things at a time
 
yes start turning the screw in. dose it have the little gray boot over it ? start at 1/4 turn watch the IAC and TPS , like I said you will have to learn two things at a time

yes start turning the screw in. dose it have the little gray boot over it ? start at 1/4 turn watch the IAC and TPS , like I said you will have to learn two things at a time
Did some tinkering
Readings at idle:
IAC: 23 and 18
O2CC: 39, 84, 96, 109, 221
Lv8 30, 28, 32
Int 136-146
BLM: 150
Rpm 750
TPS .44

Going to get a fuel pressure reader. Was looking online. Not seeing a lot videos of how they hook up the reader

Also my chip is not a TT it says acxa
 
Did some tinkering
Readings at idle:
IAC: 23 and 18
O2CC: 39, 84, 96, 109, 221
Lv8 30, 28, 32
Int 136-146
BLM: 150
Rpm 750
TPS .44

Going to get a fuel pressure reader. Was looking online. Not seeing a lot videos of how they hook up the reader

Also my chip is not a TT it says acxa
Unless you put a gauge on the fuel rail(no transducer) ya get one with a transducer connected to the gauge.

As for the chip, go to TurboTweak & get a modern chip that MATCHES your set-up(turbo, injectors, fuel type etc). Eric puts out a damn near spot on chip.
 
go to Summit racing search

Fuel Pressure Gauges, Engine Diagnostic ,got 2 that won't break the bank​

I think that is a OE chip it needs to be round filed early tomorrow so Waste Management can save you a rod bearing.
You will need know more about your Buick than it is black and has a turbo to get the right chip from Eric.
from your sig we don't know much about you or the car? have you had it long is it stock, miles?
 
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