Sputter around 15lb

Since you don't have a wide band now, you can turn on #3 and see if you cam sensor is optimised.
 
#3 on what my tr6? I tried running the car with my cam sensor unplugged and it still had the stumble. I checked the tr6 with it running and the light for cam was on.
 
I changed to a non resistor plug for about 4 hrs . The car stumbled right after the change , I changed to a resistor plug and problem went away . There was a thread about this a while back. It dosen't effect everyone , but it happened to me.
 
I run 30 psi boost on E85 with no problems now.
 
I've got some resistor plugs on The way. It's weird though I have soild power and the car builds boost pretty well until it hits 15lns then it starts to stumble. I don't get any knock or anything...
 
One of the things Brain Lorenz and Cal Hartline had to do to my car on The dyno was move the cam sensor.

My car would run fine until about 10 pounds of boost then stumble.
 
I've got some resistor plugs on The way. It's weird though I have soild power and the car builds boost pretty well until it hits 15lns then it starts to stumble. I don't get any knock or anything...
Verify the RPM limit setting in the TR6 while you are at it.
 
Did you turn all the dip switches off but #3 ?

What did your dash RPM meter say ?

It is more than the green light in the box.
 
So I turned on switch 3 and it read 4500 so it's 15 degrees retarded. To adjust it would I just turn the cap or the sensor itsself???
 
So I got the cam sensor adjusted so the rpm now reads at 3000 / 25 degrees. Went for a ride and it was gone temporarily. Did a couple wide open hits and was fine,. Now it's back though.
 
Humm. Maybe take the cap off and check the cup to see if it's not tacked down.
 
Something must have moved. Do both of the checks again after you pull the cap off.

Did you mark the body and cover to see if the body had moved ?
 
No i didn't. When I adjusted I just loosened the bolt an gave it a slight turn.
 
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