Cold start taking 8-10 seconds

DannyJov

Do Not Buy From Me
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Whenever I park my car in the garage and wake up the next morning to take her out again...she takes a solid 7 or 8 or 9 or 10 (maybe even more) seconds to start up. It sounds terrible! Just built up a new motor so alternator is new(rebuilt), new starter, plugs, wires, fuel pump, cold air intake, ignition contol module...WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. I appreciate any advice or help in advance. Thanks guy.
BTW I have an 84 grand national with a hot air set up


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You might be having to build oil pressure before the car gets fuel pressure. (That's assUming the hotairs use the same redundant circuit as the intercooled cars)
 
Sounds like a problem I had - was a dead fuel pump relay. Once oil pressure is built, it will trigger the pump on. With a working relay you will hear the pump run a sec or two before cranking the motor.
 
IAC sensor is new. I have a new fuel pump where is the relay at I can take a look at that. When I turn the key, the relay sounds for a few seconds (about 3 seconds) then I crank it or sometimes even wait a while and it just keeps on cranking until a godly awful turn over sounds..then she's running great after that. I'm still curious what is causing this


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If I crank it for two seconds and then let go and wait for a few seconds then crank it again...it'll start right up... WHAT


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Fuel psi on rail before starting (just turn key but don't start)? If so does it bleed down fast?
 
What's the best tool to use to measure psi


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What's the best tool to use to measure psi


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The best tool would be a FP tester from Snap On. Just screw it onto the valve in the rail.

I like having a quality FP gauge I can monitor all the time. My setup is below.
I've got a rail gauge also. It was 10psi too high right out of the box when it should read 32.
My Snap On one agrees with my indash.

All this relay this and oil switch that. Earl and I will be working on the Hotwire of all Hotwires this weekend.

Either my apartment is going to be missing a piece of its breaker box or an old science project will be missing its knife switch.
image.jpg
 
All this relay this and oil switch that. Earl and I will be working on the Hotwire of all Hotwires this weekend.

Either my apartment is going to be missing a piece of its breaker box or an old science project will be missing its knife switch. View attachment 203381


I think we should make wireless with bluetooth. Sheldon Cooper said everything's better with bluetooth.


Little bit of Tesla, little bit of Cooper.
 
Thanks guys I really appreciate a the positive feedback...I can use all of it. But oddly enough I borrowed a buddies matco fuel pressure tool and I screwed it right in and after I turn the fuel relay on it hits 32lbs...this is supposedly perfectly normal for my motor. What are my next steps to solving this ridiculously long cold start up?


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Yes. Sounds like a(some) leaking injector(s). As above does it hold pressure for 15-20 min after you turn the key off?
When it does start is there a raw fuel odor?
34 psi w/ vac line off? Seems low. Is it rising pound for pound(1 to 1) with boost?
Turn the pump on then off , with out starting the engine, then pull the plugs. Wet plugs= leaky injector in that hole.

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Thanks guys I really appreciate a the positive feedback...I can use all of it. But oddly enough I borrowed a buddies matco fuel pressure tool and I screwed it right in and after I turn the fuel relay on it hits 32lbs...this is supposedly perfectly normal for my motor. What are my next steps to solving this ridiculously long cold start up?

32 is too low with engine off. It should be 42 with engine off.

Engine idling with vac line still attached to FP reg should be 32.

There is a small jumper wire behind the AC compressor for powering up the pump. It sticks out of the convoluted tubing there. I think it's the black,female plug. ...not the green one. Run 12V to it with the key on or off. No need to jump the relay.
 
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