Thinking about this Low Budget Turbo, Injector and torque converter combo.

Grumpy said:
have a question for ya.. how fast did you go with this car ??? is the "17s" the best the car did?? I wouldn't blow threw more $$$ till the car goes 12s anyway like it is. is the $$$$ burnin a hole in your pocket ?? if so get the new parts then and try and find your problem after you get it all back together an still run the same times.
Click to expand...



I completely understand your point and agree with you but check this out for me please.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ti...day-i-wanted-burn-my-car-after-first-run.html.
First Run @ 17.99"the car pulled hard out of the hole then just went completely blank at about 30 or 40 feet from the starting line, so I lifted then got back on it and finished the run"

Second run "15.255 with no Sputtering "

Third run @ 17.19 "So I line up at the tree build 5 PSI of boost then let it rip and the car dies again so I let of then got back into it. This was the out come of the last run.

Since these runs I have replaced the module and coil plus I went over every wire and sensor in the car and it hasn’t sputtered a single time.

But then I run into this.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbos-turbo-related-parts/271140-i-need-new-turbo.html

So now that I wasted all this time with used parts that fail just when the car starts to show some life. I am now going to give it a shot with new parts that hopefully won't fail right when the car starts to get close to coming alive.

I have read that the Valve springs should be replaced to help with the top end and to avoid valve float or what ever it’s called. So why not?

My turbo is NO GOOD So I need a replacement. I am not Buying another rebuild or used unit.
With a new and bigger Turbo I think I would need matching injectors to avoid running out of fuel and with new injectors I need a chip to make them work.

With a new and bigger turbo I think I need a torque converter to make the best use of the turbo.

I guess the problem I have is that I am expecting this new parts to work and in expecting them to work the next issue could be the cam, lifters and valve springs. So in looking ahead and expecting the new items to work I am trying to get a jump on the next possible week link.
I am told a cam is not necessary so I no longer have interest in replacing the cam but I am still looking into replacing the Valve Springs
 
IMHO... if you are buying injectors anyway.... go straight to the 60's.... I had 0 issues on a bone stock motor..... only mods were 3"THDP, hooker exhaust, and a big mouth cold air kit with LS1 MAF meter and a translator.... oh.... and and Eric Marshall TT alky chip and a Razor's alky kit. The car idled better with the 60's than with the stock chip.... and I have enough "growing" room to go 10 flat with the alky assisting a little.... the 60's are the bomb if you need to replace injectors anyway.

IMHO, 36's, 42's, 50's..... all cost money.... so why not get 60's.... they don't have a downside that I can see for a stock motor if that is the case.... and a modded one down to 10'0's with alky.

Do what you want with your motor....your money.... but if I was fixing to shell out money for a new set of injectors... it would be 60's for a street driven car.
 
Which vehicle is this for, the Chevelle or the T?
 
Blazer406 said:
IMHO... if you are buying injectors anyway.... go straight to the 60's.... I had 0 issues on a bone stock motor..... only mods were 3"THDP, hooker exhaust, and a big mouth cold air kit with LS1 MAF meter and a translator.... oh.... and and Eric Marshall TT alky chip and a Razor's alky kit. The car idled better with the 60's than with the stock chip.... and I have enough "growing" room to go 10 flat with the alky assisting a little.... the 60's are the bomb if you need to replace injectors anyway.

IMHO, 36's, 42's, 50's..... all cost money.... so why not get 60's.... they don't have a downside that I can see for a stock motor if that is the case.... and a modded one down to 10'0's with alky.

Do what you want with your motor....your money.... but if I was fixing to shell out money for a new set of injectors... it would be 60's for a street driven car.
Click to expand...
i posted this Question to Eric in his forum.
turbopowered68]I have a stock turbo and stock injectors But I am going to buy a TE-60 said:
Which vehicle is this for, the Chevelle or the T?
Click to expand...
yes
 
See my mods in sig...big turbo, big stall, 60's w/TurboTweek alky chip...no head work or cam done yet and I am very happy with how my car runs. No track time yet but figuring mid to low 11's. I am running a 911 3400-3600 stall converter and don't even notice it driving around. I bolted everything on, plugged in Eric's chip and started it up...idled perfect right from the start. Had a MAF, O2, and new Walbro fuel pump fail...new LT1 MAF w/Translator, O2 and for now OEM replacement fuel pump (waiting on Walbro replacement) and the car runs awesome. I have lots of room for growth with my turbo and injectors so when the time comes for P&P heads and roller cam I will be all set and in the 10's still with great street manners :cool:

If the springs are stock...replace them. When my car was stock mine were shot at 40,000 and would float around 3,000-3,400 RPM...after that the car just went flat...didn't know till I ran it at the track (14.00 best time...breaking down at mid track) and then put it on a dyno, HP died around 3200-3400 and went flat like a touque curve.

I am by no means very knowledgeable on these cars and am learning every day so when I say I bolted everything up and no problems with idle, fuel, boost I did so with very little adjustments...was very easy. These are tried and true recipes so it is hard to go wrong and Eric's chips make it soooooooooo easy. I did have a few misfires in the beggining...huge backfire through the cutout...forgot to change/close up the gap on my plugs...blew out the spark, cut off the motor and then fired it back up...scared the s#!t out of me. New plugs and the correct gap, some alky, 24#'s boost and WOW!

I say go for the 60's and Eric's chip for sure...no problems with them at all and plenty of room to grow.

Good luck,
Scott
 
Interesting info in this thread. I just upgraded my car from stock to not stock.:D After running a best of 11.98 on the stock turbo last March, it was time for a change.

I went with a Precision TE-61, ProTorque 3200-3400 billet L/U convertor, built 200-4R out of my WH-1, and a few other small parts. Also did suspension mods for this season. Car seems to be running good.

I am still running my Racetronix 009s (Tomco style), and havent seen any detonation yet. Also running a single nozzle Razor's kit, and Erics chip with high default timing (24°/23°). Seeing about 18psi blowing through the ported stock IC, with NO Dutt neck!

Stock 105K motor, except for new timing chain. Debating on whether to do springs or not, or to wait for my heads to be done... We'll see. Car picked up 21-22mph between the 1/8 and 1/4 on the stock turbo.

Im looking for good things this season!:) If I can run the car in the 11.50 range (+/-), I'd be happy.

Cost for me wasnt bad. Probably about $1K, most of that being the new convertor.
 
scojack_2001 said:
Interesting info in this thread. I just upgraded my car from stock to not stock.:D After running a best of 11.98 on the stock turbo last March, it was time for a change.

I went with a Precision TE-61, ProTorque 3200-3400 billet L/U convertor, built 200-4R out of my WH-1, and a few other small parts. Also did suspension mods for this season. Car seems to be running good.

I am still running my Racetronix 009s (Tomco style), and havent seen any detonation yet. Also running a single nozzle Razor's kit, and Erics chip with high default timing (24°/23°). Seeing about 18psi blowing through the ported stock IC, with NO Dutt neck!

Stock 105K motor, except for new timing chain. Debating on whether to do springs or not, or to wait for my heads to be done... We'll see. Car picked up 21-22mph between the 1/8 and 1/4 on the stock turbo.

Im looking for good things this season!:) If I can run the car in the 11.50 range (+/-), I'd be happy.

Cost for me wasnt bad. Probably about $1K, most of that being the new convertor.
Click to expand...

I like to hear things like that. I'm getting ready to run all the parts mentioned in my sig less the BILLET WHEEL :cool: and see what she does at the Track. Get a baseline E.T. then put the Billet Wheel on. :biggrin:
 
bison said:
42's can go 10's with alky. 4431 turbo. C16 and 28-30 psi should go low 11's on a good tune.
Click to expand...

+2

I've gone 119.96 with a 12" 2800, 009s & TE60 on alky with a 89 and E85 mix. If I shifted the 2-3 @ 5700 I bet it would have picked up another 2-4 MPH. The 02s thru the trap was .71 but remeber that was with E85.

I switched to a Precision housing hope to pick up some MPH.
 
IMO I would go with the 60's, even though you can go mid to low 11's with the 42's and alky (this leaves you room to grow in the future). Almost everyone wants to go faster at some point. Remember if you are using alky and a smaller injector (say 36 or 42's) you could always use straight methanol instead of a water mix to gain the additional fuel needed. I have personally used a D5 (3000 orange stripe) and it was not enough with my te60 (non bb) and FMIC (could only build one pound of boost on the foot brake). I swapped the orange stripe for a Pats performance 10" 3200 L/U and have been very pleased (not even a noticeable difference from the orange stripe while street driving). Swapping converters in and out is a pain especially when you dont have lift at home.
 
87WE4BOOSTED said:
I like to hear things like that. I'm getting ready to run all the parts mentioned in my sig less the BILLET WHEEL :cool: and see what she does at the Track. Get a baseline E.T. then put the Billet Wheel on. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

I'll find out what it runs March 7th at Cecil County. Thats thier first Saturday test and tune. Hopefully I can get it to hook better than a 1.68 60' on the 255/50 M/Ts... Should run good.

I read your sig, and you seem to have all the right parts. The only thing I would change is the heated 02, but thats just me. Ive never had any luck with the heated units on these cars. Ive been running the same Denso 02 sensor since the fall of 07 and havent had any problems yet.

street6 said:
IMO I would go with the 60's, even though you can go mid to low 11's with the 42's and alky (this leaves you room to grow in the future). Almost everyone wants to go faster at some point. Remember if you are using alky and a smaller injector (say 36 or 42's) you could always use straight methanol instead of a water mix to gain the additional fuel needed. I have personally used a D5 (3000 orange stripe) and it was not enough with my te60 (non bb) and FMIC (could only build one pound of boost on the foot brake). I swapped the orange stripe for a Pats performance 10" 3200 L/U and have been very pleased (not even a noticeable difference from the orange stripe while street driving). Swapping converters in and out is a pain especially when you dont have lift at home.
Click to expand...

I think I may have to upgrade my injectors at some point this season. Saw the 02s in the 720s last night at about 120mph (SM2.2 recall), STILL no knock!!!!! Im gonna have to give it fuel through the chip and see what happens. Im pretty sure injector DC is getting up there though, IMHO.

Im running straight VP methanol as well.

My boss has a 87 GN with a TE-60, ProTorque 3K stall L/U, PTE FMIC, 60's, TA DP w/dump. Its only run a best of 12.3 so far, and we think it needs a fuel pump. Running the stock pump along with an external as well. Hopefully we can turn some decent numbers with it....
 
G-Pop Shop just quoted me $150.00 to make an OE exhaust housing fit the TE-60. That includes return shipping.
I am NOT going to do this anytime soon but I figured I let you guys know the price I was quoted.


Jay left you a Message.
Waiting for your call.
 
good move on the LU.. we had Melissa's car out all day today.. went over 200 miles :eek: ..car didn't miss a beat.. cruising down the highway @ 75/80. LU's are great for "driver's" :cool:
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
So now that the turbo is in the mail my attention moves to the TC.
Regardless of brand i will be keeping the LU.
Click to expand...

A 3000 stall ProTorque would work great with the TE-60. I just put a 3200-3400 in my GN, and my loaner TE-61 spools like a scared monkey!!

You're gonna like the 60. And I agree with Grumpy, keep the L/U.
 
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