Also, listen to what Dusty is telling you. He knows a ton about these cars, plus he's actually WON TSS........I'm always runner up
Ha, you been runner up how many times in TSS? Competing against better equipped cars with your little stocker and running consistent 10.70's and .80's is something I'd be ashamed of
Even with heads, cam and a 66mm at 33 psi boost I only averaged 10.60's. That says something about how well your set-up works together.
speedfreakv6: The most important time in your run is that first 60 feet. If your off here then the rest will never come around. You need 60' times no worse than low 1.50's, and that will take some practice. It's hard to beat the 3.42's. These cars leave hard with the boost cranked up so the 3.73 will make the spinning worse when combined with the 200-r4 1st gear. Several guys have went to 3.23 and picked up e.t. Unless you can figure out how to get those bfg's to hook the car you need some 28x10.5 slicks. You may need to tune the suspension with air bags or swaybar. Bottom line is 60 foot is very important.
I used 72's and loved them. 72's will work with stock ecu but the drivers have to be modded by turbobob. We did try the 60's and the high z 55's on a friend's car. The 55's worked better than the 60's for us. If you really want to keep the meth injection then the 42's will be fine. You don't need a bigger injector with that dual nozzle set-up, that will add plenty of fuel. The thing is you will have to learn to tune that set-up to keep a good a/f ratio where it needs to be all the way down the track. Chips are easier but you can work with what you have. The a/f has to be right from the time you leave the line. If it's too rich it will kill your 60 foot. Just a couple weeks ago I was working on a car and we were able to pick up the 60 foot up from 1.62 to a 1.53 on M/T radials by leaning out 1st and 2nd gear with a translator set-up. It was way rich out of the hole. If your alky is coming in too soon and adding to much fuel then it will kill your e.t.
For your boost level and that 60' time, 7 teens isn't terrible but the mph is way off like Scott said. Hopefully it was your fuel pump issue causing the problems. If your mph is still off now then the car is way rich with the alky or your valvesprings are shot. You need a good 100#-110# valvespring to run higher boost. And 2 years of racing will wear them out, I changed mine every winter. Direct scan will also tell you if your converter is working right by graphing the rpm.
You see here that a scan tool like direct scan and knowing what to look for makes all the difference in the world.
Maybe this can get you started. It takes time, like Scott and myself can tell you, to get things sorted out and working together. The car we are working on now has GN-1 heads, with a front mount and T-70 and has yet to run better than 6.80's with 28 psi. That's not good at all but we have a new Art Carr converter in it now so we hope it comes around. Thanks to direct scan it was obvious the old $300 converter that worked great with the old combo sucks with the new set-up and couldn't hold the power.
