My goal...10's w/PT54 and unported heads

The only thing I know now is we should have gotton as far away from these cars as possible, they consume all of are money and souls.

You've had your chance many of times lol

With today's converter tech this could be done with under 30psi. 28-30psi with 93/alky no problem. I have one of these turbos here if anyone wants to try running 10's on a stock long block. If you don't have a good converter or one that can be locked at wot forget it. You will need to achieve a 60' in the low 1.50's or better and have a good handle on the tune.

I bet slippage was around 15% at least. That and 60's sucked and a bunch of other little things that I was not aware of back then.
 
What would you different? A friend and I are trying to get a stock long block in the 10's with a TE44. So far, 11.35@116 with 26psi 24 deg timing on Q16. The car went the same with 31, 28, 26 psi. 60' is no problem, 1.50 off 6psi, 8psi spun, so high 1.4's should be possible on a prepped track, and when we actually work on the suspension. AFR from 10.2 on one run, to 11.4 on another, no difference. The car has
TE44 with .63 Precision housing
CAS V4
THDP
60 lbs injectors
translator plus with LS1 mas, extender chip
Fresh Comp 980 springs, Edlebrock timing chain
full billet Janis trans, 0 pump Vigilante 5 disc
bell mouthed stock TB and ported upper
This was only the 2nd time out with the car. The first time it went 11.69@114 with 21psi with a bad fuel pump going 11.7AFR at the top of the track.
It is dieing out after 85. The plug gap might need to be tightened. Once the speedo flashes 85, you can feel it going flat. We are going to swap my coil pack and change the plugs before we head out this year. Probably wouldn't hurt to ohm the wires. They are new, but that doesn't mean anything. Hoping to go 10's for Norwalk.
 
@ forcefed3.8's(having a hard time quoting from my phone) I'd do some dyno time and find out exactly where peak power is with the converter locked and also verify that added boost is truly not increasing power. Usually added boost increases power as long as the engine is at an rpm where it can take advantage of it. After that I'd have a ptc 9.5" spec'd that will flash stall to the rpm that you made peak power at. Your goal is to get the engine to spend almost all of it's time at peak power or within a couple hundred rpm of it. With a stock long block at 30psi it will likely be around 4500. I'd run a tall 29" slick and work on leaving off a t brake. You should be able to get the 60' into the high 1.40's. If you can get the car to mph 120-121 you will have the potential to run high 10's.
 
What would you different? A friend and I are trying to get a stock long block in the 10's with a TE44. So far, 11.35@116 with 26psi 24 deg timing on Q16. The car went the same with 31, 28, 26 psi. 60' is no problem, 1.50 off 6psi, 8psi spun, so high 1.4's should be possible on a prepped track, and when we actually work on the suspension. AFR from 10.2 on one run, to 11.4 on another, no difference. The car has
TE44 with .63 Precision housing
CAS V4
THDP
60 lbs injectors
translator plus with LS1 mas, extender chip
Fresh Comp 980 springs, Edlebrock timing chain
full billet Janis trans, 0 pump Vigilante 5 disc
bell mouthed stock TB and ported upper
This was only the 2nd time out with the car. The first time it went 11.69@114 with 21psi with a bad fuel pump going 11.7AFR at the top of the track.
It is dieing out after 85. The plug gap might need to be tightened. Once the speedo flashes 85, you can feel it going flat. We are going to swap my coil pack and change the plugs before we head out this year. Probably wouldn't hurt to ohm the wires. They are new, but that doesn't mean anything. Hoping to go 10's for Norwalk.

My car needed 60' bad. A few quick other things were: I didn't know about c16, tq needed to be tightened, could used a wide band, sheded some wieght etc..

One thing that jumps out at me on your setup is timing. The smaller turbo combos like timing with unported heads and low rpms. My most recent combo had a 49. I ran 27+ degrees of timing. The pt54 setup also ran 27 degrees. The plugs will give you an idea where your at. I was told to look at the strap and where the heat mark is. I think you guys could go a bit higher than 24....especially with the q16.
 
Wow, I just realized this thread was brought back up.

Looking back, I think the most fun I had with my car was when I was trying break into the 10s with the stock longblock. Here it is a few years later, and I had built another GN, raced it in tsm for basically two events in 2006, hurt the motor, took it apart to make it stronger and faster, and finally sold it in pieces.
 
Wow, I just realized this thread was brought back up.

Looking back, I think the most fun I had with my car was when I was trying break into the 10s with the stock longblock. Here it is a few years later, and I had built another GN, raced it in tsm for basically two events in 2006, hurt the motor, took it apart to make it stronger and faster, and finally sold it in pieces.

Haha you are right on! That was also a great time for me. I was going to the track every Friday with the car and going faster and faster each time. I broke it, built a tsm car also and raced that for 3 years or so. Went deep into the 9's, sold it as a roller and then bought another stockish car. Tried to go 10's with that under the similiar conditions....kind of cam full circle. Although this time I sold the engine before I hurt it....didn't get a 10 again. Ended up pitting my old tsm engine in the new car. Ready to go to the track to get some testing done but It will not freaking quit raining:(
 
We were running a regular translator and extender chip from my brothers car at the time. With the translator plus, we can add timing to all gears, so that will be one of the first changes I will try at the track. The issue with no more power with boost makes me think there is a problem with the ignition, but I think it should be constant with more boost, not just after 85mph. The car pulls great until 85, then it flattens out. The car was a bone stock car with alot of typical wrong replacement parts. The coil pack and module are the 90,000 mile originals. I am switching to a distributor, so my old set up will go on it. We got the car ready for the last 2 weeks of racing here. I guess all in all it ran good for having limited time with it. I was locking the converter at 100. I also tried leaving it unlocked, no difference in MPH at all. I figured it should go 96 to 97 in the 1/8, and 118 to 119mph in the 1/4 no problem. It went 92 in the 1/8. In the next few weeks I will be wrenching on the car. The only thing we changed from the 21 psi day to the 26+ psi day was the fuel pump and the plugs, 43's to 42's. I never pulled the plugs to see what they were doing. I am hoping for something simple, and want to surprise some people at Norwalk.
 
Kevin, you can correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember being in BG in 06. I was under Cal's tent (he was working on tuning my xfi). I'm pretty sure someone said you had wiped the cam in your motor and you were changing it across from his tent. I just remember thinking if that was me, I'm loading my car up and spectating for the rest of the week. That's when I new I wasn't cut out for the class. I've got too many other irons in the fire and now with two kids, no time or money to finish anything. :frown:
 
Sounds like possible ignition issue to me also. I'm sure taking the stuff off your 9 sec car will help figure that one out.
Sounds like that car would be perfect for the ths class up in norwalk. The owner of the car will get hooked on heads up racing if he joins us in that class Sunday.
 
We were running a regular translator and extender chip from my brothers car at the time. With the translator plus, we can add timing to all gears, so that will be one of the first changes I will try at the track. The issue with no more power with boost makes me think there is a problem with the ignition, but I think it should be constant with more boost, not just after 85mph. The car pulls great until 85, then it flattens out. The car was a bone stock car with alot of typical wrong replacement parts. The coil pack and module are the 90,000 mile originals. I am switching to a distributor, so my old set up will go on it. We got the car ready for the last 2 weeks of racing here. I guess all in all it ran good for having limited time with it. I was locking the converter at 100. I also tried leaving it unlocked, no difference in MPH at all. I figured it should go 96 to 97 in the 1/8, and 118 to 119mph in the 1/4 no problem. It went 92 in the 1/8. In the next few weeks I will be wrenching on the car. The only thing we changed from the 21 psi day to the 26+ psi day was the fuel pump and the plugs, 43's to 42's. I never pulled the plugs to see what they were doing. I am hoping for something simple, and want to surprise some people at Norwalk.

If it's not responding to any boost increases it may need more spring pressure. I saw you say brand new comp 980's but it may not be enough pressure. I went through 3 boxes of 981's that were no where close to the advertised pressure out of the box. Had I not bench tested them 1st I would have never known. I always just used the sealed power Lt-1 springs from the local parts store. They were right at 110# at 1.700

I ran as much as 30 degrees of timing and 28 psi through the stock intercooler when my car ran 11.0's. If you don't have the airflow, the timing needs to be higher.
 
Kevin, you can correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember being in BG in 06. I was under Cal's tent (he was working on tuning my xfi). I'm pretty sure someone said you had wiped the cam in your motor and you were changing it across from his tent. I just remember thinking if that was me, I'm loading my car up and spectating for the rest of the week. That's when I new I wasn't cut out for the class. I've got too many other irons in the fire and now with two kids, no time or money to finish anything. :frown:

Actually I was doing a cam change before the event and was victim of comp cams sending me a stage 2 cam. I loaded up the car not running and got the right cam in bg. All that work was completed but then I developed a fueling issue from a bad pump.
 
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