WTB Forged Crankshaft

H

HRobertson1

Member
Joined
May 30, 2011
I am looking for a forged Crank, and possibly rods/pistons if the price is right. I snapped the stock one I have in half and dont think its smart to replace it with another stock one.

Thanks,

Henry
 
Just judging by your sig a good (key word being good) stocker should be just fine...not that I would blame you for going steel I sure wish I could.
 
Forgot that Mark is now offering engine stuff too. Hey Mark can you put together a kit? crank, rods, pistons
 
Also remember whatever aftermarket crank you go with needs to be checked over by a good machine shop. Some have required being turned down .010 to true up the surfaces. Don't try to drop it in directly.
 
Also, I have to ask, how did you break the stocker? Unless your sig is not up to date, I can't see you pushing it hard enough to break it unless the tune was way off, too much boost and some nasty stuff happened, etc. How did it break? Were you running it hard, with 30 psi? Any details? I ask because the stocker has been in at least the 10's and survived.
 
Honestly im not sure, my engine was making a rattle sound only when the rpm's dropped (around 2,000) for just a sec. Rev'ed and drove smooth, thought it might be a converter bolt. Checked them and one was a little loose. Tightned it, didnt hear the rattle, so I went for a test drive. Gave it some gas, boost kicked in, heard a loud bang, knock gauge went red, then engine seized. I was close enough to home that I drifted into the garage. Dropped the pan saw a ton of metal, bottom of the piston is broke off and half of the crank is up the other half down, snapped right in half. On a side note, I do not have powerlogger, but I have scanmaster 2.1 and a knock gauge. I have never had any knock to speak of until this. I have however had a issue with the engine shutting down at full throttle (loud pop, but nothing on the knock gauge, or scanmaster) but as soon as I let up a little it starts pulling like crazy again. When I was under the car checking on the converter bolts I noticed a "white and red rebuilt" tag on the drivers side of the engine. I would put stock back in it, but since I dont have the skills/knowledge to do it all myself, and am lucky enough to have scottatk and a few local guys willing to help me with the swap, I would rather err on the side of caution and overbuild. I will just have to buy 1 peice at a time, and hope for a lot of overtime at work, lol
 
Hmmm... That is odd. Make sure you post of pics of the carnage, not just because we like looking at carnage, but maybe someone will notice something that could have been a possible cause. I'd be curious if anything else is hurt like the block. Make sure you check everything over very closely. One broken component can lead to lots of other bent items, sometimes unnoticeable to the naked eye.

Depending on your goals, some would argue a stocker would be fine, but it is all personal opinion and how much $ you want to spend. It gets expensive fast because you go with a steel crank, then think "maybe I should do studs and steel caps", then you add rods, forged pistons, and it all snowballs. figure out how much $ you want to have tied up in it, and how fast you want to go and build from there.
 
HRobertson1 said:
Honestly im not sure, my engine was making a rattle sound only when the rpm's dropped (around 2,000) for just a sec. Rev'ed and drove smooth, thought it might be a converter bolt. Checked them and one was a little loose. Tightned it, didnt hear the rattle, so I went for a test drive. Gave it some gas, boost kicked in, heard a loud bang, knock gauge went red, then engine seized. I was close enough to home that I drifted into the garage. Dropped the pan saw a ton of metal, bottom of the piston is broke off and half of the crank is up the other half down, snapped right in half. On a side note, I do not have powerlogger, but I have scanmaster 2.1 and a knock gauge. I have never had any knock to speak of until this. I have however had a issue with the engine shutting down at full throttle (loud pop, but nothing on the knock gauge, or scanmaster) but as soon as I let up a little it starts pulling like crazy again. When I was under the car checking on the converter bolts I noticed a "white and red rebuilt" tag on the drivers side of the engine. I would put stock back in it, but since I dont have the skills/knowledge to do it all myself, and am lucky enough to have scottatk and a few local guys willing to help me with the swap, I would rather err on the side of caution and overbuild. I will just have to buy 1 peice at a time, and hope for a lot of overtime at work, lol
Click to expand...

You are lucky to have a guy like Scott helping you out. He can get you back to running right.
Scott, hope you are feeling back to normal.

Bryan
 
Thanks Bryan, I'm doing well. Started PT on my shoulder yesterday. It will be nice getting the use of that arm back.
On Henry's car, he recently shelled out his stock turbo and circulated lots of journal bearing through the motor. Obviously, I haven't been able to inspect anything but gotta believe that was a factor.
 
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