Why is it so difficult to build these motors right?

[3-5.0]

I've been coming back to this thread regularly to read replies, contemplating it, obviously one would think the vast majority of these cars are not 9 sec cars. I wonder how many are just cruisers that perhaps the biggest goal is to get into the 12's maximum, well, regardless of that, that is my goal with most of the concentration on reliability.

Maybe there is a vendor out there that offers a solid V6 crate engine for these cars where one doesn't have to worry about lifter bores, timing chains, oil pick up and tolerances etc. etc.? I'm not there yet after I rule out the easier stuff...actually I think its probably sensors that cause a lot of headaches. I've been thru a few standard small block builds and I don't mind doing what the "average" car guys do but I don't fancy digging into an engine everytime I take it out.

 

[earlbrown]

The build methods have no idea how fast the car it's mounted in will cover 1/4 of a mile.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

These engines are not hard to build, they're actually very easy.....


....the part where you get into trouble is when you don't know NOT to do something. Things like tapping the front galley plugs to make them better.... and blocking off the oil flow to the engine (while the pressure gauge reads awesome). Not setting the thrust bearing CORRECTLY so that BOTH halves are on the same plane and equally loaded at all times. (miss this step on a 305 Chevy and you'll never know it)...

Buying an aftermarket oil pump, slapping it into a timing cover is another good way to get bit in the ass. If you don't notice the pump is locked up, it's not going to run for long after the pump "self clearances".

On a SBC if the main journals are perfectly round but .002" non-concentric, you'll never notice... on a Buick V6 with <.002" clearance you CAN'T get an consistent even tapered hydrodynamic wedge with the journals that far out.

Putting a tentioner with a dogboned link timing chain will have you digging out the engine hoist.

If running a flat tappet cam ALL the nuances HAVE to be tiptoed around (and you will not see a 100% success ratio). The cam grinder has to know how to deal with a bad print on 3E that's been a part of our blocks since day one. Softer cam blanks, lack of hard feet on the lifters, de-nutted oil, the WRONG valvespings, and improper pushrod length are a recipe for disaster.


Moral of the story, as long as you know ALL the nuances AND have the ability to recognize something odd before it gets terminal, you're fine.. almost.

That is some good information there Earl. Your name came up the other day when I was talking with Husek. He really likes your timing chain covers which will probably be going on my motor. I'm glad I have Husek to get my parts from and the advice and experience he brings to the table. I would be nervous without that.

 

[EVIL]

When I go and visit the guy that's building my engine I ask questions.
Not because I want to grill him, but because I want to learn.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

That is one of the best quotes on here, EVER!

ASK QUESTIONS!

AND! If someone doesn’t want to answer questions, RUN!

RUN fast, RUN silent, RUN deep!

The key word is RUN!

99 out of 100 people that you meet are, SNAKES, SHYSTER and THIEVES!

They either want your money, want your wife or want your daughter!

If you live by any other mentality, You’re FUCKED!

D

 

[earlbrown]

I really wouldn't expect a good engine builder to just let go and answer every question asked by a customer.

A guy with a thorough understanding of how engines work will know answering every question asked will still be an incomplete picture. (not to mention, time spent asking questions is time spend not actually building the engine)

 

[TurboBuRick]

A guy with a thorough understanding of how engines work will know answering every question asked will still be an incomplete picture.

So true..