why am i not blowing the tires off ?

I'd get a proven fuel pump and hot wire kit in while you do the trans. Fueling at this point is really more important than a higher stall and shift point.
 
Your last statement on the uncertainty of the pump should b enough reason. Not sure why you'd leave something lik that to chance. The tranny and all are nice, but the motor pops a head gasket what's the point?
I've spent months on just the fueling.
Joel
 
I agree with the above two posters. You can't expect stellar performance out of a less than stellar fuel pump. I'm about to put a Racetronix 340 in mine even though I am no where close to needing that much pump...knowing it's up to the task gives me peace of mind for pretty much anything I plan to throw at it.
Good pump=cheap insurance
unknown pump=Russian roulette(just went through this myself)
 
I'm going to install the Racetronix 255 FP & Hotwire during the converter swap. Car should be back on the road mid week next week.
 
So how do you know what your boost is supposed to be set at, without looking at the wastegate rod, or posting a picture of it? If it's set at about 15 psi, but you're not achieving it, THEN you have a boost leak. But you don't have a boost leak if all you're getting is 13, because your wastegate's set at 13 lol. Check that first. Don't worry about spinning tires. It's loud, obnoxious, and it ruins stuff. Most importantly it helps you lose races lol. Get that fuel pump with hot wire kit, then start looking at what your wastegate rod's set at. If you can confirm it's setting, THEN you can confirm what reading's coming up on the gauge. Though, what helped my car spin it's tires, (it was just an experiment) was a dump pipe. Even though I had intake and exhaust mods, my car was a totally different animal with the dump open. Totally. Though before you find a D5 converter and yank everything apart, a cheap way would be indeed to throw a boost controller on there, and a dump pipe lol. I actually have a steel one that was on my car I'd send you for the price of shipping lol. Just so you could experiment like me lol.
 
Thanks for the input. I'm not going to drag the car. i just want it to light them up on demand and have some fun and not blow it up. I have not touched the waste gate adjustment since i got the car. Once i get the car back on the road with the mods i'm doing, i'll see how it is.
 
If it's the same, then I'd read up on how to verify what boost you're set at, before you go diagnosing stuff that doesn't need diagnosing...like I do. lol. HUGE waste of time chasing ghosts. I THINK you're supposed to be able to just pull the wastgate rod over the wastegate arm with very little pressure, then after that, if my memory is correct it should be around 13 psi now. One full twist in should equal about roughly one psi of boost. Roughly. Don't take my word for it though, I'd look it up first.

Edit: Though, if you have some exhaust work done, it may be a tad lower though, right?
 
Will check the setup & I've got a mint condition Dutt'd IC waiting in the wings. That alone should give me 1-2 psi from what i've read. But i'll baseline first.
 
Definitely. I want to see if you're really leaking or not. Plus, you can just yank your IC and throw a stopper in one of the hoses and tighten the clamp down, then tighten another stopper in the other hose, but that stopper will have a nozzle you can attach a hose to to pressurize it and see if it's leaking. Do both of your ICs. Also, as you already know, (even though it's a long hard process) check your headers and crossover too. If you're going to do it the right way, you'll have 'em x-rayed or MPIed. But if you're going to mpi them, make sure the person knows what they're doing. It's easy to screw up. As me how I know...
 
I don't believe i have any issues with the stock IC or exh leaks, it's just that i have a mint Dutt'd IC that I throw in there for improved performance.
 
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