Who makes the UPPER re-location brackets?

[KEVINS]

The link worked fine after "adjusting" his name

Those are the no-hop bars that I am used to seeing.. On the cars that I have seen them used on, it causes the rear if the car to rise too much by hitting the tires too hard. A friend has them on his Olds Cutlas and his rear separates from the chasis REAL BAD. But as we know it depends on the car that they are used on. I will read the info when I get home tonight and see what it all says. Thanks for the link!


Regards
KS

 

[Donald McMullin]

On the Miller brackets there are two different points to attach the trailing arm too. The upper one provides too much anti-squat. I use the lower one which is providing me with about 25% anti-squat.

Donald McMullin

 

[KEVINS]

I'm shooting for about 7%-13% A.S. with an IC length of 45-47 but I don't know if I have the geometery to get it. Right now I can get the IC to 43" but I haven't figured the A.S. for it at this length yet. The IC length may seem a bit agressive (or not agressive enough depending on how you look at it) but I need a bit more leverage for lifting the nose since I have the lowering springs all the way around.
Basically I'm going for more leverage to lift the nose and less for lifting the rearend, so very little A.S.

KS

 

[KEVINS]

Whew…… What a PITA.!!!

I got it all done but it was not easy. I started Friday after work and finished Saturday at noon. I almost decided not to do it..
The inner bolt holes that I needed to drill were not on a flat surface so I had to make angled spacers to even the force distribution when I tightened the bolts down. I needed them on the nut side and the bushing side. Once I got one side mocked up the other side was easier. At this point these spacers are not welded in but merely take up the extra space of the angled surface. This should work for a while until evaluations are finished. I would not recommend doing this unless you are a good fabricator and have decent tools to work with (I don’t but I've learned to make due).

I lowered the mounting holes 1” and I ended up with an Anti-Squat of 9% and an Instant Center Length of 54.5”.

Like I said, I'm going for more leverage to lift the nose and less for lifting the rearend, so very little Anti-Squat.

I guess we’ll see if any of this was worth it in the next couple of months…
Now to get the tranny yanked out

ks

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

all that and you cant take it for a ride...

thats gotta suck.

i almost tried it last night but really didnt feel like it so i didnt..

i might get mine done about the time your ready to drive yours so we can both get the news be it bad or good.

got tools and a lift to work under...

 

[KEVINS]

Results are IN!!!
I finally made it to the track today and it was a beautiful day for racing.
Relocating the control arms worked great but found the next weak link which is the front and rear shocks. My shocks are TOTALLY worn out and there is very little damping left in any of them. Launching at 15psi the car would hook then spin 3-5 feet out for about 20-30 feet which resulted in 1.70-1.75's.. Boost was set at 22-23.
On one run I did get a 1.66 which netted 12.16 @ 109 because it hooked a little better.
On the last run I lowered the launch boost to 14psi and it finally hooked to a 12.24 @ 107 60' 1.64 but still not good enough..
The suspension is working good- lifting the nose hard but it's just coming up to quickly and the rear shocks are not keeping the tires planted.
Really disappointed in the LOW MPH.. It ran from 107-109 but mostly 108 Should be 110+) and I tried several ME positions to get more MPH but no good.. Maybe too much timing with 28*? Any suggestions??????????

There is an 11.9 in this combo but it's going to take some DEFINITE tunning with the suspension and chip to get it there.
Complete runs and settings are now on my web page...

Special THANKS go to Doug Jacobson for allowing the use of a new O2 sensor on the last 2 runs and the use of his DirectScan for recording the last 3 runs. Without the DS I would have NEVER knew I was spinning THAT BAD!

So to summerize the day the car ran 12.25 @ 108mph as an "average" run with Stock Turbo and Stock IC with stock neck..

ps.. I even drove it up there 120 miles and back with no troubles

ks

 

[KEVINS]

...also my 1/8 mile ET range is: 7.68, 7.71, 7.76, etc..

Do these times indicate a fast 1/8 mile but a slowing topend?

I have never payed any attention to 1/8 mile times before..

thnks
ks

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

you forgot to mention what tires are on the car ...

sounds good so far get you some shocks and see what happens.

i lowered my rear lower ontrol arm mounts and i can feel a difference in the car on the street it dont lay back no more and launching the car with the door open watching the tire/fenderwell line it only seems to squat about 1/4 inch ..atleast on the drivers side....i need to get some on to video my car launching so i can see what its doing from different angles.

im working on the other regal i have to put a cage in it and im in the air about doing ladder bars or stock style suspension if im staying stock style i'll probly build my own control arms with helm joints and have adjustable mounting points also

and i'll be going with a wolf bar setup if i use stock style also

im tired of spinning tires i want to show my oilpan to the crowd now...

 

[KEVINS]

Geezz... sounds like you have a lot of energy...!! I have this new 4 link computer program that plots out the 4 links.. I plot out anything you need or you can get it here: http://www.performancetrends.com/4link.htm

I use 10x26 MT slicks.. I am going to try and upload my DS files to my web page but I don't know if it'll work..

I might try a tighter converter or 9x28's.. I want to hear some results from others that have made this swap first first..

My D5 converter is REALLY being pushed. DS shows that it is flashing to 3700+ (before the car even moves) after power braking it to 15psi (2500+rpm) and mashing the throttle.

I just now recieved the DS files from Doug J so I'll look them over and see what it looks like..

ks

 

[c&cgn]

Originally posted by KEVINS
Geezz... sounds like you have a lot of energy...!! I have this new 4 link computer program that plots out the 4 links.. I plot out anything you need or you can get it here: http://www.performancetrends.com/4link.htm

I use 10x26 MT slicks.. I am going to try and upload my DS files to my web page but I don't know if it'll work..

I might try a tighter converter or 9x28's.. I want to hear some results from others that have made this swap first first..

My D5 converter is REALLY being pushed. DS shows that it is flashing to 3700+ (before the car even moves) after power braking it to 15psi (2500+rpm) and mashing the throttle.

I just now recieved the DS files from Doug J so I'll look them over and see what it looks like..

ks

FYI, flashing your convertor that high will kill it. I'm sure you know that already, but I went through it myself which is why I am mentioning it. It very well could be on its way out. I used to flash mine to 3000+ rpm, same as what you do and when I got my tranny done the shop told me that the convertor was practically in pieces when they took it out

I had plenty of low 1.6's and had a best ever of 1.59 with the stock D5. I never held as much boost as you do though, I would only hold 7-8psi and then mash the pedal before letting off the brake.

 

[jbaker]

check this out boys, just another option for no hop bars
www.artmorrison.com