Who makes the UPPER re-location brackets?
- Thread starter KEVINS
- Start date
D
dconnor
Guest
You mean upper rear control arm?
Eastern Perf made some, but they are aparently out of business now. My car had a set on it when I bought it & they worked well down into the mid 1.6 60' range. I may be interested in selling mine, (went to a HRPartsNStuff control arm set) but dunno what they are worth in the "parts" market AND they would be a pretty big PITA to ship. Lemme know if you'd be interested & maybe we can work something out.
Eastern Perf made some, but they are aparently out of business now. My car had a set on it when I bought it & they worked well down into the mid 1.6 60' range. I may be interested in selling mine, (went to a HRPartsNStuff control arm set) but dunno what they are worth in the "parts" market AND they would be a pretty big PITA to ship. Lemme know if you'd be interested & maybe we can work something out.
I guess it depends on how you read my post..lol
I want to lower the mounting of the front hole for the upper control arms so they point down more. I don't want to raise the rear mounting position, only the front.
If you have these type of brackets I need to know how much the hole is lowered first b4 I buy them.. thnx
Make sense?
KS
I want to lower the mounting of the front hole for the upper control arms so they point down more. I don't want to raise the rear mounting position, only the front.
If you have these type of brackets I need to know how much the hole is lowered first b4 I buy them.. thnx
Make sense?
KS
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
UPPERZ
Kev, My uppers use a pair of spacers and a 3/4" X 3/4" heim at the ft.
It wouldn't be a big job to make a pair of drilled plates to fit inside the OEM brkts, weld them in, shorten the spacers and make them so they would go in the new plates and be adjustable w/ several holes.
I have some spacers that were drilled to .500 holes instead of 12MM. I can send you a pair to look at.
I talked to the guys at SUMMIT. they had tried the bolt on deals that go on the axle... BAD DEAL!! Anything over about 400 HP and it's goodbye to the hsg.
Kev, My uppers use a pair of spacers and a 3/4" X 3/4" heim at the ft.
It wouldn't be a big job to make a pair of drilled plates to fit inside the OEM brkts, weld them in, shorten the spacers and make them so they would go in the new plates and be adjustable w/ several holes.
I have some spacers that were drilled to .500 holes instead of 12MM. I can send you a pair to look at.
I talked to the guys at SUMMIT. they had tried the bolt on deals that go on the axle...
BAD DEAL!! Anything over about 400 HP and it's goodbye to the hsg.I agree, should be fairly easy. I just thought that somebody sells them. I think somebody makes them for mustangs and I may be able to get some of those to modify (if they are cheap), if not, then I'll make them. It's cheaper if I make them but I'm lazy and I'd rather modify some I need to figure out where I want the holes first before I get to carried away.
Your "bottled sunshine" arrived yesterday just in time to melt half the snow!
ks
I need to figure out where I want the holes first before I get to carried away.Your "bottled sunshine" arrived yesterday just in time to melt half the snow!
ks
It looks like relocation brackets won't be necessary. There is too much bracing to actually install a dropped bracket anyway.
Good News is, that it looks like I have about 2 1/2" to play with for just re-drilling the holes.
Bad News is, I need to remove about everything to get enough room to drill the holes
ks
Good News is, that it looks like I have about 2 1/2" to play with for just re-drilling the holes.
Bad News is, I need to remove about everything to get enough room to drill the holes
ks
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
man get off the couch and get to work...
im going to do the same thing it shouldnt take much to get the i/c back far enough since the upper arms are so short a lil change shoud make alot of difference.
but you should know all that..
later KEV
RED
im going to do the same thing it shouldnt take much to get the i/c back far enough since the upper arms are so short a lil change shoud make alot of difference.
but you should know all that..
later KEV
RED
I want to know how come you still have over 1000 posts.. HHHmmmmm?????
I had 0 this morning and now I'm over 400. I HAVE been busy
I have part of my car graphed already but I have not measured the mounting positions of the control arms yet. The car is still on the ramps and there is too much snow in the driveway. If the weather warms up a bit I will take some measurements and finish graphing my suspension. I may have to lower the front mount farther than you since my car is lowered. I'll keep ya informed on what I find out.
later bud
ks
I had 0 this morning and now I'm over 400. I HAVE been busy
I have part of my car graphed already but I have not measured the mounting positions of the control arms yet. The car is still on the ramps and there is too much snow in the driveway. If the weather warms up a bit I will take some measurements and finish graphing my suspension. I may have to lower the front mount farther than you since my car is lowered. I'll keep ya informed on what I find out.
later bud
ks
I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, I finally got under my car last weekend before the snow hit....
I got my suspension all measured and graphed along with some ideas on where I may drill the new locating holes. The graph is on my web page as a link, so take a look...
The red lines on the graph indicate the current control arms angles. I graphed 3 other holes to see where I may want the new holes to be drilled but you will have to zoom in to see them. I'm not sure which one I want to drill yet.
***Something VERY INTERESTING I found was that MY car is lowered approx 1 1/2" all the way around BUT the UPPER control arm is LEVEL! If the car was not lowered then the upper control arm would be pointing UPWARDS. This is BAD because then the Instant Center would be BEHIND the car.
If you have any questions let me know..
Regards
KS
Well, I finally got under my car last weekend before the snow hit....
I got my suspension all measured and graphed along with some ideas on where I may drill the new locating holes. The graph is on my web page as a link, so take a look...
The red lines on the graph indicate the current control arms angles. I graphed 3 other holes to see where I may want the new holes to be drilled but you will have to zoom in to see them. I'm not sure which one I want to drill yet.
***Something VERY INTERESTING I found was that MY car is lowered approx 1 1/2" all the way around BUT the UPPER control arm is LEVEL! If the car was not lowered then the upper control arm would be pointing UPWARDS. This is BAD because then the Instant Center would be BEHIND the car.
If you have any questions let me know..
Regards
KS
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Correct..
Hi Kevin,
Your right about the IC being behind the car, its this way with all A and G bodies. Thats the reason for the hop stop kits that bolt to the pumpkin and raise the rear upper point higher to put the IC back under the car then you get the nice anti squat launch like the GNX.
It's amazing to me how these cars can hook so good when loading everything through the suspension when the IC is so screwed up
Mark
87GN
Hi Kevin,
Your right about the IC being behind the car, its this way with all A and G bodies. Thats the reason for the hop stop kits that bolt to the pumpkin and raise the rear upper point higher to put the IC back under the car then you get the nice anti squat launch like the GNX.
It's amazing to me how these cars can hook so good when loading everything through the suspension when the IC is so screwed up
Mark
87GN
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
NO hop stuff
I ordered a set of them from Jegs... [The original Lakewood "no hop" bars] When I got them, I almost had a coronary!! That's some of the NASTIEST quality I've ever seen in a aftermkt part!!
The "shoulders" that were to fit in where the bushings were, were so poor that they would NEVER have stayed in place, the finish looked like it was done w/ an axe... What a POS!! I sent them back and called the tech guys at JEGS.. He said "Good thing you didn't use them. ANY power over about 400 and they WILL break out the bolts,[puny little 5/16" crap] that keep them from rotating under load". He had tried a pair on a Monte w/ a SBC on NOS... threw them away after the 2nd rear axle hsg was torn up.
I also saw a set of EDELBROCK "no hops" @ the NMRA meet last yr.. NICE PARTS!!! Still no way to anchor them to keep from tearing the drilled holes out.
I get lo 1.40's w/ my CODY bars and drops and 3.5* pinion angle, HAL shocks on 4 clicks off soft and MT 10.5X28 slicks. 12psi leave. I just may turn up the wick a bit and see what happens to the 60' time.. may even get lucky and go a 12.0!!
I am going to try 1 of Mike Nelsons rear location plates and see if I can stand this barge on it's "stern". 3700# of dynamite, w/ a 1" fuse!!!
MIKEY, Are you listening???
I ordered a set of them from Jegs... [The original Lakewood "no hop" bars] When I got them, I almost had a coronary!! That's some of the NASTIEST quality I've ever seen in a aftermkt part!!
The "shoulders" that were to fit in where the bushings were, were so poor that they would NEVER have stayed in place, the finish looked like it was done w/ an axe... What a POS!! I sent them back and called the tech guys at JEGS.. He said "Good thing you didn't use them. ANY power over about 400 and they WILL break out the bolts,[puny little 5/16" crap] that keep them from rotating under load". He had tried a pair on a Monte w/ a SBC on NOS... threw them away after the 2nd rear axle hsg was torn up.
I also saw a set of EDELBROCK "no hops" @ the NMRA meet last yr.. NICE PARTS!!! Still no way to anchor them to keep from tearing the drilled holes out.
I get lo 1.40's w/ my CODY bars and drops and 3.5* pinion angle, HAL shocks on 4 clicks off soft and MT 10.5X28 slicks. 12psi leave. I just may turn up the wick a bit and see what happens to the 60' time.. may even get lucky and go a 12.0!!
I am going to try 1 of Mike Nelsons rear location plates and see if I can stand this barge on it's "stern".
3700# of dynamite, w/ a 1" fuse!!!MIKEY, Are you listening???
REDS HOT AIR
Buick Tweaker
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
whats happening my buddy Kevin's?
im going to look at your grafffffffff in a few but i dont get your control arms at the top being level if your lowerd
on most of the g-bodys i've had i lowered then till the lower control arm was level with the frame and thats were they hooked the best but i never checked the top ones.
there looks to be enough beef at the lower control arm mount at the rear end to drill anothr hole just below the factory one to aid in ic adjustments.
im going to start playing with mine here soon since the tracks will be open in amonth and i want to get my et's down to match up alil better to my mph.
about post count you better get busy and do your post in tech instead of the lounge..
im going to look at your grafffffffff in a few but i dont get your control arms at the top being level if your lowerd
on most of the g-bodys i've had i lowered then till the lower control arm was level with the frame and thats were they hooked the best but i never checked the top ones.
there looks to be enough beef at the lower control arm mount at the rear end to drill anothr hole just below the factory one to aid in ic adjustments.
im going to start playing with mine here soon since the tracks will be open in amonth and i want to get my et's down to match up alil better to my mph.
about post count you better get busy and do your post in tech instead of the lounge..
Hey Bud,
I was wondering when you were going to poke your nose back in here
Evidently the uppers are pointing upwards with the stock ride height (rear mount lower than the front mount) and when the car is lowered the rear mount gets moved up. This has just been confirmed by others within the last 24hrs. I always figured that the upper bars are level from the factory on all cars, but I guess not.
Since the upper and lower control arms are not the same length the upper arm will change the angle faster than the lower arm when you start lowering the car but you prolly know that. The more you lower the car the closer the IC gets to the rear axle. Obviously you don't want to go toooooooo far
If I have the energy I wouldn't mind drilling some new lower holes.
ks
I was wondering when you were going to poke your nose back in here
Evidently the uppers are pointing upwards with the stock ride height (rear mount lower than the front mount) and when the car is lowered the rear mount gets moved up. This has just been confirmed by others within the last 24hrs. I always figured that the upper bars are level from the factory on all cars, but I guess not.
Since the upper and lower control arms are not the same length the upper arm will change the angle faster than the lower arm when you start lowering the car but you prolly know that. The more you lower the car the closer the IC gets to the rear axle. Obviously you don't want to go toooooooo far
If I have the energy I wouldn't mind drilling some new lower holes.
ks
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I know you want to re-locate front of top trailing arm, but look at rear relocation arms by **** Miller Racing at:
6856 Keystone Dr Memphis TN 38115-5361
Phone (901.794.2834) Fax (901.794.2870)
They have two different upper relocation points not like poor quaility No-Hop bars that Chuck Leeper spock of.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
6856 Keystone Dr Memphis TN 38115-5361
Phone (901.794.2834) Fax (901.794.2870)
They have two different upper relocation points not like poor quaility No-Hop bars that Chuck Leeper spock of.
Deep Enough
Donald McMullin
Do they have a web site? I need to see a pic. How do they mount, ie do they relocate the rear/upper mounting point or front/upper point?
Most of the ones that relocate the rear/upper point relocate it way to high (several inches above the existing hole) bringing the IC too close to the rear axle. This causes the rear of the car to raise up too drastically during the launch.
In order to get my prefered IC location I am only changing the mounting point 1.25" to 1.75" which moves the IC from about 10' in front of the car to just behind the Center of Gravity.
ks
Most of the ones that relocate the rear/upper point relocate it way to high (several inches above the existing hole) bringing the IC too close to the rear axle. This causes the rear of the car to raise up too drastically during the launch.
In order to get my prefered IC location I am only changing the mounting point 1.25" to 1.75" which moves the IC from about 10' in front of the car to just behind the Center of Gravity.
ks
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
The BB blocked the first name of "****" Miller Racing because it is the shortened name of Richard. **** Miller Racing has a web page.
Donald McMullin
Donald McMullin
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Not sure if this will work, I have not posted a web link before.
http://www.****millerracing.com/Suspen1_page.htm
Donald McMullin
http://www.****millerracing.com/Suspen1_page.htm
Donald McMullin
Donald McMullin
New Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
As Chuck Leeper pointed out the bolt on the No-Hop (and on **** Millers relocation bars) which connects the bars to the diff housing is small. The small bolt size distributes the load from the bar against a small cast steel area which can exceed the capacity of the cast housing material in compression. To distribute the load from the bolt to a wider area, I installed bushings in the housing web with a hole drilled in the bushing for the bottom relocation arm bolt.
Also, since I have lowered the rear of my WE4, I am only using the lower relocation connection point which reduces the load transferred to the lower housing anchor point.
If you have any questions call me at 480.831.0310 ex 206.
Donald McMullin
Also, since I have lowered the rear of my WE4, I am only using the lower relocation connection point which reduces the load transferred to the lower housing anchor point.
If you have any questions call me at 480.831.0310 ex 206.
Donald McMullin
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