who has rebuilt their own motor?

[arista5]

I am getting a long block (bweavy) and am debating taking my time and just rebuilding it myself?

i cant say i have ever rebuilt one, but i am not afraid to try and since the car has a good running motor in it currently i am not worried about having it done in 3 weeks for my car to be back out for the summer.

A different board member was nice enough to break down all the parts i will need to aquire and what machine work would need to be done. But my question is who would try to build their own motor? and who has? and what was your results? would you do it again?

thanks

 

[WarpSpeed]

I did, I'd do it again. It was kinda fun, actually. I took my time, and did some research, and it came out pretty good. I did change out the cam after a while 'cause I used the KB 1txb cam, which pulled pretty good, but was simply too noisy. Ya live and learn...
It wasn't my first motor, however, it was the first fuel injected motor I did. My first motor was a '73 ford 460, which is more forgiving as far as clearances go.
I say definitely go for it, but take your time...

 

[arista5]

where could i locate a book or something with all the necessary infor for these motors, so i can get the cleanrences, and torque specs.....

thanks again

 

[WarpSpeed]

Welp, the book I found myself referencing most was: Guide To BUICK Performance Engines, by Steve Dove. It does V-6s and 8s. It's been awhile, but I think I got it from Poston's.

 

[Evans Ward]

There is also a series of three articles in GMHTP magazine about rebuilding a LC2 which has been very imformative with the text and pictures. I've seen two of the three articles which have been in recent issues. I want to say that the fellow is named Mertens? and he works pretty close with Ron Joseph in the NJ area. Maybe someone can give more information here? This would be advisable reading I'm sure.

Evans Ward
Macon, GA
87 Turbo-T
70 GS455

 

[gofstbuick]

I have rebuilt 3 motors (two SBC and my GN). Just make sure you check and recheck your measurements, use the required lubrication for the cam and lifters, don't forget to oil the piston pin, insure your piston ring gap is correct and clock the rings per manufacture recomendations, you can use a old ditributor shaft from a SBC as a oil pump priming tool. These are just a few of the things I can think of that may help. O yea, take your time and have fun. Since I don't rebuild many engines, I always lock myself in the garage and don't let anyone bother me while I'm assembling a motor. I'm sure you'll do just fine

 

[rastaz]

I rebuilt mine. Assembly is pretty easy, just keep everything super clean. I Got the torque and clearance specs from the gnttype site. The most important part is the machining. You will need to find a good shop that understands the importance of tight clearances.

 

[arista5]

how long has everyones rebuilds lasted, and what boost?

 

[gofstbuick]

I got around 13/14000 miles on my new motor, and it's doing fine. Stock boost levels.

 

[buickboy]

Total rebuild 3 months ago. Did all but machine work myself. Been running now for about 600 miles. Fired off first turn. Just went 11.2 @ 120 this past sunday. Oil pressure good and stays cool in 95 deg heat.
My opinion is get a machinist that cares about what you want and has experience (in my case line boring for caps). When assembling motor, do it alone, and keep everything super clean. Good luck
Mitch

 

[boostx]

hey milke i am rebuilding my 4.1 now you are welcome to take a look and see what books i have been using

 

[Whooshmobile]

I did it, I'd do it again.

When you dissasemble it, make good notes and label things well. You will thank yourself later.

As others have said-

1) Select a good machinist who will listen to you when you say you want tight clearances.

2) Keep everything very clean

3) Take your time and do it alone.

Mine has lasted 35K miles so far and is run hard daily at 17# boost. It makes occasional trips to the track.

 

[tazgn]

I did it, and would do it again in a heart beat. I did it in a one car garage with the car in it and the motor wedged in the corner. Everyone agrees, CLEANLINESS is your biggest asset when assembling and PLENTY of assy lube. Also, if you're like me, try to have everything before you start. I get SOOOO frustrated when I get to a point and realize I can't go any further because I forgot to get something before hand. But I found these motors aren't really all that complicated, and really fun to rebuild. Just waiting for the new TA Aluminum block to come out so I can do it again .

Derrick

 

[boostx]

i also ported my own heads ,polish the crank and rods clean up the block
its takes a lot of time

 

[Rollin]

I did everything but the machine work? Check Check and re-Check everything. Note: if your going to port your own heads buy a good grinder and wear some glasses. BTW it helps if you know someone with a flow bench for before and after comparison

 

[Red Regal T]

I do my own. I don't know about you, but everytime I give any work to anybody on anything, I'm shocked if they do it right. Latest is my stock turbo......new bearings and seals. Used it for 2000 miles and it's smoking. At least if I do it myself and it fails, I only have myself to blame. I don't have to kick myself because I had the audacity to trust some "expert" and pay through the nose.

 

[needtobefaster]

Hey aritsa 5 would you or another member be so kind as to relay that parts needed list on to me i will soon be building a 87 gn motor to go into my car.
thanx in advance

 

[1badTTA]

I did my own, and would agree with everyone else on the cleanliness, rechecking of clearances, and finding a good machinist.

There really isnt anything complicated about assembling an engine, it is almost a nobrainer after you have done it a couple times, what will make you sink or swim is the macine work and clearances, never take the word of the machinist as they will never admit that they aren't perfect. Always double check their work. Even if they machine it within specs, say for instance your crank and line bore your new caps. If they take the crank to the smallest spec, and the caps to the largest, the final result will be too much clearance on your main bearings but everything will still be "within specs" according to the machinist. Trust me, I know, I watched it happen to a friend of mine and luckily he caught it and had the crank returned (after fighting with the machinist) and bought new bearings.

Good luck, take your time and recheck everything and it will be better than any engine you will get from someone who builds engines for $9 an hour and will never have to see you again.

 

[Jeff Rand]

Artista, one of the most important steps is to get the engine free of any metal before you start the assembly. Use a series of brushes to clean out all passages. Remove any plugs especially in the lifter oil passages and clean with a high pressure spray and mineral spirits followed by a degeaser, high pressure rinse (do not blow dry) and spray WD-40 to protect the metal. Also clean all oil lines and the oil cooler. I have found the Torco assembly lube to work well on all moving internal parts. As Richard Lee told me when you think you have it clean, then do it again! Messy job but I feel it is the key to long engine life.
Good Luck,
Jeff

 

[Butch]

I have heard that you should have the oil cooler replaced because they are hard to get clean. I would be interested in that parts list also.

butchb@attbi.com