WHAT TO YOU THINK ITS WORTH

[griffgoody]

On the T, the fuse for the OBD port is the cig lighter fuse, check that first. No power at the OBD is usually a blown cig fuse. Keep in mind fuses usually don't blow for no reason. you might want to unhook the hot wire going to the back of the lighter before swapping the fuse if it is in fact blown now.
Hugh

Tks. Thats what me and a friend was talking about today. I'm gonna try and work on it a little 2morrow. If tha fuse isn't blown. I guess it will be start tracing wire time. Hope Not.

 

[griffgoody]

On the T, the fuse for the OBD port is the cig lighter fuse, check that first. No power at the OBD is usually a blown cig fuse. Keep in mind fuses usually don't blow for no reason. you might want to unhook the hot wire going to the back of the lighter before swapping the fuse if it is in fact blown now.
Hugh

The fuse was blown. Replaced fuse and now scanmaster is working. But not before soaking another set of plugs. Ive been told that when I replace the plugs again. Let the car run until it get to normal temp and let the car learn the chip/ecm. Then cut off and disconnect battery cable and hook back up. And it might not soak the plugs. Could b alot of things. But will try that first.

 

[hesermon]

The fuse was blown. Replaced fuse and now scanmaster is working. But not before soaking another set of plugs. Ive been told that when I replace the plugs again. Let the car run until it get to normal temp and let the car learn the chip/ecm. Then cut off and disconnect battery cable and hook back up. And it might not soak the plugs. Could b alot of things. But will try that first.

Anytime the ECM wire is disconnected from the battery the ECM will have to "re-learn" when it's hooked back up so it will be redundant to unhook it the second time. You need to determine if it is switching between open and closed loop, my guess is that it is not. If you are staying in open loop all 6 injectors will continue to pulse causing the engine to "load up" with fuel and foul the plugs. This can be caused by a number of things including (in order of most likely, in my opinion) bad MAF, bad O2 sensor, bad coolant temp, bad ECM. You will need to determine rather or not the different sensors are reporting properly. If they are but the ECM is not going into closed loop then the problem is in the ECM. Here is a pretty good explanation of open vs. closed loop.
http://www.thirdgen.org/open-loop-closed-loop

Keep in mind that even though these cars were pretty "hi-tech" back in the day, they are not exactly rocket science by today's standards. The ECM wants to maintain 14.7 to 1 air to fuel ratio. It does that by adjusting pulse time based on engine conditions at any given time. It can only translate the information that it is given. Bad info from the MAF translates into bad calculations from the ECM which translates into the wrong fuel to air ratio.
I hope this helps,
Hugh

 

[griffgoody]

Anytime the ECM wire is disconnected from the battery the ECM will have to "re-learn" when it's hooked back up so it will be redundant to unhook it the second time. You need to determine if it is switching between open and closed loop, my guess is that it is not. If you are staying in open loop all 6 injectors will continue to pulse causing the engine to "load up" with fuel and foul the plugs. This can be caused by a number of things including (in order of most likely, in my opinion) bad MAF, bad O2 sensor, bad coolant temp, bad ECM. You will need to determine rather or not the different sensors are reporting properly. If they are but the ECM is not going into closed loop then the problem is in the ECM. Here is a pretty good explanation of open vs. closed loop.
http://www.thirdgen.org/open-loop-closed-loop

Keep in mind that even though these cars were pretty "hi-tech" back in the day, they are not exactly rocket science by today's standards. The ECM wants to maintain 14.7 to 1 air to fuel ratio. It does that by adjusting pulse time based on engine conditions at any given time. It can only translate the information that it is given. Bad info from the MAF translates into bad calculations from the ECM which translates into the wrong fuel to air ratio.
I hope this helps,
Hugh

Tks alot. This might sound stupid. But let me know. Since I have my cig lighter hole working and my scanmaster is reading now. Do you think that I need to put another fresh set of plugs in. And just let the car run until about 180 temps and get some readings to try and find out whats wrong. Or just change O2 sensor and use MAF off my GN before I start. Then get some readings. Also, how much are MAF. Tks alot for info.

 

[fitz3820]

Before you throw more plugs in it, you need to fix why they fouled in the first place. Make sure the chips and injectors match or you are wasting time and $$.

You probably need to change out all of your vacuum hoses and make sure you have good grounds as well.

 

[williamsGN]

Save a little time on the battery cable and just disconnect the orange wire by the battery, it is the ECM power.

 

[griffgoody]

Tks guys for all tha info. I've sent TT chip to eric to get reprogrammed. But i changed the O2 sensor and put my MAF on the T-Type and it sounded better and didnt soak the plugs. Cranked it about 5 times within an hour. But was running rich. White smoke out tailpipes. But stayed running. The thing that puzzled me. I let the car run for about 8 min and got a reading on scanmaster of -06 for temp. It went from -10 to -01. But never a correct reading. Thats why i didnt want to keep running for long. The readings I got (and not in order) was Int 128 / Af 09 / Ats 98 / Tps 52 / Bl 128 / O2 742-750 /Lb 29-30 and the IAC was I think 21 (couldn't remember this one). Just puzzled by the temp.

 

[hesermon]

Tks alot. This might sound stupid. But let me know. Since I have my cig lighter hole working and my scanmaster is reading now. Do you think that I need to put another fresh set of plugs in. And just let the car run until about 180 temps and get some readings to try and find out whats wrong. Or just change O2 sensor and use MAF off my GN before I start. Then get some readings. Also, how much are MAF. Tks alot for info.

Does your scanmaster tell you if you are going closed loop or not (not familiar with scanmaster, I have powerlogger)? If not find someone to plug in any diagnostic scanner (i.e. Genesis or Snap On scanner) to see why your dumping fuel. You do need to know if your injectors and chip are matched or not but my guess, and this is only a guess from personal experience, is either your MAF or ECM is the problem. If you are going closed loop and still dumping fuel then it could be a host of other issues, including but not limited to bad injector(s), vacuum, cam, etc... Again, determine if you have one injector or six pulsing, that will determine where to begin.

 

[griffgoody]

Before you throw more plugs in it, you need to fix why they fouled in the first place. Make sure the chips and injectors match or you are wasting time and $$.

You probably need to change out all of your vacuum hoses and make sure you have good grounds as well.

We are planning on doing just that. Gonna change water pump and intake gaskets and all the hoses.

 

[griffgoody]

We are planning on doing just that. Gonna change water pump and intake gaskets and all the hoses.

After changing a few things, car is running pretty good. Haven't taken it out for a test run yet because still can't get a good reading on temp. Reads -37 on scanmaster. Do anyone know where the Coolant Temp Sensor is located. Because its giving me a NAL - 15 code. Also after about 10m of running. Here are the readings:

AF -05
LB -30-35
BAT - 13.3
INT - 128
BL - 128
CLE - -37
ATS - 94-96
RPM - 800-825
TPS - 40
IAC - 37-40
NAL - 15 Tks for any info.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The CTS is in the front of the intake manifold, near the cam sensor cap. It is the only two wire sensor in that area. With it reading -37* all of the time it may be just unplugged. The connector terminals tend to corrode which will also make it read low. Or, the sensor is just bad (open).

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[griffgoody]

The CTS is in the front of the intake manifold, near the cam sensor cap. It is the only two wire sensor in that area. With it reading -37* all of the time it may be just unplugged. The connector terminals tend to corrode which will also make it read low. Or, the sensor is just bad (open).

RemoveBeforeFlight

Just changed out. Temp's are working now. Tks

 

[KL Mallender]

I hope you are keeping an eye on the oil condition, fouling plugs and excessive overfueling can and will put enough gasoline into the crankcase to destroy it's ability to lubricate the vitals inside.
What ever you do, change the oil and filter BEFORE you take it down the road hard, just one full throttle run with contaminated oil will ruin your day.
Good luck,

Kevin.

 

[griffgoody]

I hope you are keeping an eye on the oil condition, fouling plugs and excessive overfueling can and will put enough gasoline into the crankcase to destroy it's ability to lubricate the vitals inside.
What ever you do, change the oil and filter BEFORE you take it down the road hard, just one full throttle run with contaminated oil will ruin your day.
Good luck,

Kevin.

Tks for info. As soon as I get everything changed out and over (plugs/hoses etc..) I'm gonna change oil and fuel filter before the first outing. Then i'm taking it to get detailed. I really think its gonna be a solid car. I gonna post pic's and a video when everything is said and done. Probably first wk of next month.

 

[griffgoody]

Oil is changed. Had to use my Brake Booster Unit. Glad I didn't sale it. Car feels strong. Still not gonna do a full pull until about another 100 miles of shake down. Still have some more adjusting to do. But glad on progress.

 

[GNRick]

I've had cig. lighters go bad and blow the fuse. Have you tried using the cig. lighter? I could never figure out which part is grounding out and blowing the fuse.