what to look for when buying GN
- Thread starter bobbin21
- Start date
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Rust as it has been pointed out is something to avoid at all costs. No matter how much rust you see figure twice as much exists you don't see.
YOU sure hit that on the nose!
YOU sure hit that on the nose!
turbojay
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2009
I learned the hard way about rust on these cars. I bought an 86 two years ago with visible rust on some of the panels. I figured I could sand it off and repaint it but to my surprise...when I removed the panels, the rust had gone all the way through to the inner panels and to the frame itself at some spots. I threw in the towel and sold the car and bought a totally rust free one. So, I concur with all the posts about avoiding rusty GNs. I didn't listen to the experts on this site the first time around and it cost me $2k.
Also as Dennis stated above, miles don't matter as much as the condition of the car. The "new" GN that I bought has 128k miles on it but so many parts have been replaced on it recently that it drives like it's got 28k on it.
Also as Dennis stated above, miles don't matter as much as the condition of the car. The "new" GN that I bought has 128k miles on it but so many parts have been replaced on it recently that it drives like it's got 28k on it.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
I threw in the towel and sold the car and bought a totally rust free one.
LOL! You tookt he easy way out
What's the fun in that
I'd rather fix 'em than see them get parted or circle track racin'
I bet you wouldn't pass on a rusty GNX! I know I wouldn't
Yes you will have some money into it if it has rust, but if I ever get another TR that one will be getting a frame off too. Makes it more fun then you know what you got when it's done. Everything on my car is getting cleaned up, replaced with good used, or when wallet permits-new You guys haven't seen crap pile until you have seen my car!
LOL! You tookt he easy way out
What's the fun in that I'd rather fix 'em than see them get parted or circle track racin'
I bet you wouldn't pass on a rusty GNX! I know I wouldn't
Yes you will have some money into it if it has rust, but if I ever get another TR that one will be getting a frame off too. Makes it more fun then you know what you got when it's done. Everything on my car is getting cleaned up, replaced with good used, or when wallet permits-new
You guys haven't seen crap pile until you have seen my car!
turbojay
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2009
I threw in the towel and sold the car and bought a totally rust free one.
LOL! You tookt he easy way out
I'd rather fix 'em than see them get parted or circle track racin'
I bet you wouldn't pass on a rusty GNX! I know I wouldn't
Yes you will have some money into it if it has rust, but if I ever get another TR that one will be getting a frame off too. Makes it more fun then you know what you got when it's done. Everything on my car is getting cleaned up, replaced with good used, or when wallet permits-new
I did take the easy way out but after calculating what it was going to cost me to restore the rusted GN, it was worth it. Also I wanted to move up to an 87, the rusted one was an 86. My "new" 87 is a gem, rides nice, just got back from taking it out around town.
In today's economy, it's easy to get a good deal on a rust free one over restoring a rusted one.
But just so you know I sold the rusted 86 to a guy that is going to restore it. His father owns a body shop so he will save money restoring it. I sold it for a very fair price and sold him rust free panels for it also.
Nothing wrong with moving up to a rust free GN so that I can concentrate on making it faster instead of spending money getting rid of rust. I've got the desease now.
54Rich
Member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2007
Besides the rust, that's been talked about, weather 40K miles or 100K, fact is it's a 20+ year old car. Once you start driving it it will leak from old seals, brakes (Power Master) are a PITA on these cars or at the very least expensive to repair. Rubber parts will need replaced, hoses, lines, etc. Original chip should be tossed and reburt for todays gas, injectors, spring cleaning, gauges, scan tool, etc. Don't think that you will by one and use it as a DD and not have issues pop up.
Mine was a 100K car and spent the first year on jack stands and everything has been gone over. It's a weekend fun car and I'm getting ready to go over it again for spring/summer. Upgrades are a constant thing.
If you have the right expectations going in you'll enjoy it.
Mine was a 100K car and spent the first year on jack stands and everything has been gone over. It's a weekend fun car and I'm getting ready to go over it again for spring/summer. Upgrades are a constant thing.
If you have the right expectations going in you'll enjoy it.
Follow ustaboost's advice as his equation is just about right, multiply what ever rust you do see and multiply it by 2!! (much less the car is up north, you might want to multipy it by 3!!)
I have had to cut and replace alot of metal to get mine rust free. (The guy would drive from florida to michigan)
Be wary of someone who says the car is rust free... honestly as I have gone through my car I have found a substantial amount of metal uncoated, just bare steel from the factory.
Also, unless your pockets are deep enough to run to a mechanic every time you have a problem, you really must enjoy working on cars to enjoy these rides. Other wise it can be frustrating. 54ride pretty much spells out the expectations one should have to owning a GN.
I have had to cut and replace alot of metal to get mine rust free. (The guy would drive from florida to michigan)
Be wary of someone who says the car is rust free... honestly as I have gone through my car I have found a substantial amount of metal uncoated, just bare steel from the factory.
Also, unless your pockets are deep enough to run to a mechanic every time you have a problem, you really must enjoy working on cars to enjoy these rides. Other wise it can be frustrating. 54ride pretty much spells out the expectations one should have to owning a GN.
When you look at the car check under the carpeting at the floor boards. All you need is a screwdriver to remove the metal stip on each side to lift up the carpeting. Also take the back seat cushion out. the part you sit on. The seller should have no problem if you are a serious buyer. I would only do that if you were 99% sure you were gong to buy the car and really do have the money. Should only take about 10 minutes. I bought a car with bad floor boards once. Everything else was in pretty good shape. Water got down there from sitting outside. Bad seals? Rusting from inside out.
turbo39151
anycoloraslongasitsblack
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2002
Amen on that last post!
I drove from KY to NJ to pick up a nice cheap GN. Pic's looked good and owner assured me that there was no rust.
When I arrived, I noticed rust bubbles on the fenders... no biggie-that's what I pay my body shop for... As I was squatting down by the drivers door to look under the doors for rust I turned and grabbed the part where the shiney sill plate goes for balance. When I grabbed it and pushed up a bit to get up I heard a crunching sound.
I figured that it was maybe something in the carpet but proceeded to pull the sill plate off and pull back the carpet in the rear footwell. Guess what? I could see the grass under the car and the carpet was dripping wet!!!! The guy claimed he had had the car on a lift and it looked fine. (claims the black backing of the carpet looked like the floor to him... Not sure about that) but then I checked the other side, same thing- not as bad- but bad enough.
I called my bodyshop and they told me if I bought it that I'd have to find another shop to put in new floors because with the amount of rust I was describing they were not sure about how much of the surrounding metal would be available for new welds. Needless to say I didn't buy the car.
So, I drove 12 hours one way on the word of a seller who claimed there was no rust. Even if someone claims there is no rust you really need to see it for yourself.
Also, not to beat a dead horse, If you've never bought one of these cars, please do yourself a favor and ask one of the guys here to go with you to look at it with you. They will see stuff you won't and know where to check for issues.
Just my .02
I drove from KY to NJ to pick up a nice cheap GN. Pic's looked good and owner assured me that there was no rust.
When I arrived, I noticed rust bubbles on the fenders... no biggie-that's what I pay my body shop for... As I was squatting down by the drivers door to look under the doors for rust I turned and grabbed the part where the shiney sill plate goes for balance. When I grabbed it and pushed up a bit to get up I heard a crunching sound.
I figured that it was maybe something in the carpet but proceeded to pull the sill plate off and pull back the carpet in the rear footwell. Guess what? I could see the grass under the car and the carpet was dripping wet!!!! The guy claimed he had had the car on a lift and it looked fine. (claims the black backing of the carpet looked like the floor to him... Not sure about that) but then I checked the other side, same thing- not as bad- but bad enough.
I called my bodyshop and they told me if I bought it that I'd have to find another shop to put in new floors because with the amount of rust I was describing they were not sure about how much of the surrounding metal would be available for new welds. Needless to say I didn't buy the car.
So, I drove 12 hours one way on the word of a seller who claimed there was no rust. Even if someone claims there is no rust you really need to see it for yourself.
Also, not to beat a dead horse, If you've never bought one of these cars, please do yourself a favor and ask one of the guys here to go with you to look at it with you. They will see stuff you won't and know where to check for issues.
Just my .02
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Fluck THese cars don't rust from theinside out, they rust from where water DOESN"T reach it and dirt does. THese cars have LOTS of nooks and crannies for dirt/sand/gravel to sit. Well we all know these are abrasive. Next thing you know the paint underneath is rubbed off. Then you get a little surface rust to start. Ok still no biggie. 2 years later of exposed rusty metal with some salt for flavor and you have what I ended up with. Drivers floor hole that looked like the flinstones. FLoor brace underneath is rusted out, no wait, ROTTED out at body mount, Flaking, probably SOFT above frame rails on the underneath of the body. Above the upper door hing right underneath you will most likely find some rust, or a hole like I have. If said hole is there it leaks through the firewall down to the bottom inside and rots and is covered by the fender so you wont see it unless you look VERY closely. Trunk floor is probably rusted, or if your lucky it will just be the welds. It is a guarantee that the rear inner wells will have holes, you just won't see it because it's behind the tires. I'm not even close to being done. Unless you jack it up and thoroughly inspect it, it is a gamble for sure. I got screwed so hard, I still can't comprehend it. I would've been smart to pull the trans, rear end, SFI/intercooler setup, and wiring and junked the car and bought a roller. Buit because I was so excited to finally get one of these cars I dumped an insane amount into it before I even tore it down. LESSON LEARNED. I have almost 7k into the car. The body isn't on the frame, and I have found MORE RUST. I'm scared to put a sanblaster to the underneath because I don't know if I'll be able to fix the damage it causes
I keep trying to tell myself "I'm saving ONE of 1547" I should've pulled the 5 parts off this car that was good and bought myself a roller. Here's a link for you to look at:http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/show-car-restoration-body-repair/245736-my-progress-thread.html
THese cars don't rust from theinside out, they rust from where water DOESN"T reach it and dirt does. THese cars have LOTS of nooks and crannies for dirt/sand/gravel to sit. Well we all know these are abrasive. Next thing you know the paint underneath is rubbed off. Then you get a little surface rust to start. Ok still no biggie. 2 years later of exposed rusty metal with some salt for flavor and you have what I ended up with. Drivers floor hole that looked like the flinstones. FLoor brace underneath is rusted out, no wait, ROTTED out at body mount, Flaking, probably SOFT above frame rails on the underneath of the body. Above the upper door hing right underneath you will most likely find some rust, or a hole like I have. If said hole is there it leaks through the firewall down to the bottom inside and rots and is covered by the fender so you wont see it unless you look VERY closely. Trunk floor is probably rusted, or if your lucky it will just be the welds. It is a guarantee that the rear inner wells will have holes, you just won't see it because it's behind the tires. I'm not even close to being done. Unless you jack it up and thoroughly inspect it, it is a gamble for sure. I got screwed so hard, I still can't comprehend it. I would've been smart to pull the trans, rear end, SFI/intercooler setup, and wiring and junked the car and bought a roller. Buit because I was so excited to finally get one of these cars I dumped an insane amount into it before I even tore it down. LESSON LEARNED. I have almost 7k into the car. The body isn't on the frame, and I have found MORE RUST. I'm scared to put a sanblaster to the underneath because I don't know if I'll be able to fix the damage it causes I keep trying to tell myself "I'm saving ONE of 1547" I should've pulled the 5 parts off this car that was good and bought myself a roller. Here's a link for you to look at:http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/show-car-restoration-body-repair/245736-my-progress-thread.html
just plain john
El Camino a Go-Go!
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2007
No snow or salt here
Move to Texas. It is hot though.
Move to Texas. It is hot though.
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
LOL! The bad part is this car came from missouri
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
I wish I did! But I guess I will like it that much more when it is finished and NOTHING will have been skipped
Your best bet is to see if some one here is close to you that can go and inspect the car with you.$17,000 should get you a nice clean car.All you can due is hope that the seller is up front with any issue if any.You can also ask Dennis from Kirbans Performance and see if he has any for sale.I have met a lot of people that have purchase gn's from him,and were very happy with their purchase.
GOOD LUCK ON PICKING THE RIGHT CAR:biggrin: :biggrin:
