What next before we paint?

[Oregon'84GN]

We are starting to look for a painter. Before we paint I want to make sure we're truly at the point where paint is the next step. The car runs well and starts every time, you can see what we've done down in my signature section. It doesn't drip a drop. All the electrical works. The car is going to be a street cruiser. Not a conquers show car but nice enough to properly represent the GN in some of our regional cruises.

Has anyone had any experience doing things in a specific order, good or bad? I thought some of you more experienced forum folks could make the final steps before we paint a little easier. I searched the forum and most of the stuff says don't keep giving the paint guy money if don't see results (makes sense). Anything else?

The to do list BEFORE we paint
-Replace some exterior pieces (headlight bezels, grill, etc.)
-Body Bushing (stock rubber replacements)

On the list for AFTER we paint
-Replace rubber door/trunk seals etc.
-Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kit
-F&R sway bars (DSE looks good but still shopping)
-Wheels - depends on whether we choose to go 4 disc or not
-Tires - thinking 245's all the way around
-Tint windows

On the list for LATER
-We've got the LS interior and some of the leather is in need of replacement
-Replace some of the worn out interior trim pieces
-Vacuum brake conversion
-4 wheel disc brakes conversion (BAER, Wilwood, or something else)
-Stereo of course

 

[Red C5]

Seems fine to me. Did you take the car completely apart?

 

[lilredss0287]

how much extra would a body shop charge if they took apart the body parts

 

[EVIL]

Here is the link to my paint prep. I did go a bit far but at least you can follow the steps and stop anywhere you want.

I took everything apart myself.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/359238-prepairing-paint.html

Do you know anyone that can refer you to a trusted shop? There are way too many scammers and butchers out there. Be very very weary!

Ask trusted friends.

D

 

[~JM~]

I think I would do your vacuum brake swap now before paint. No sense in leaning over a nice new fender & possibly spilling a drop of brake fluid on the new paint.

~JM~

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I don't think I would replace the factory 84 hydro boost brakes with vacuum.

Chuck

 

[Red C5]

how much extra would a body shop charge if they took apart the body parts

Are you doing all the bodywork yourself? I'm sure paint work varies from shop to shop. When I had my C5 repainted, they removed all panels. I think it added about $2k to the job but it was years ago.

 

[Oregon'84GN]

Thanks everyone for the input. We have not taken the car apart yet. We are trying to figure out how far we are going to tear it down. We are probably going to pull the engine and trans (because we're unfortunately so good at it at this point), hood, trunk lid, bumpers, grill, lights, and windows (maybe). I hadn't planned on pulling the doors (but one is sagging a little so we may just do it anyway) or the majority of the interior. I've had the interior out for stereo and new carpet with in the last 10 years and saw no signs of corrosion so we should be OK there. Plus the car has lived in a relatively dry climate with no road salt so corrosion isn't a big concern.

We would probably do the parts pulling and small amounts of the body prep ourselves. We will speak with the painter to see what he would like to do himself before he paints. He's ultimately the guy responsible for making sure the black paint looks straight so if he wants to do the finishing touches on the body work I won't have a problem with that. The body is straight. When the car was new we had door ding bumpers installed which are screwed right into the side of the car so we are planning to have the holes welded and smoothed out.

The windows have tint that's about 20 years old now so I want to have that removed and replaced for sure. Easiest way may be to just remove the windows.

I will do the vacuum conversion prior to taking it to the painter. I'd like to make sure it's done before I subject it to the terrible stop and go Seattle traffic. I would hate to have the hydroboost fail in rush hour traffic.

Thanks again for the input. Any other advice is always welcome.

 

[usetaboost]

Nothing wrong with hydroboost. That's the best braking system as far as I'm concerned. I've had all 3. If I was you I would rebuild door hinges and make sure every panel is gapped as straight as possible. It will make a world of difference. My car looked great after aligning panels and after we shot it it was fantastic (I'm not gonna even mention that pesky trunk deck-don't get me started). Here's what I did. I removed all weatherstripping, trim, door panels, interior was removed prior, removed door glass and tracks, mirrors, header panel, quarter caps, fillers, etc. Then I aligned the doors, fenders, core support, hood, and header panel to the best of my ability and patience (you will need at least on extra set of hands). If the person painting the car is worth a damn he should be able to to jamb doors, fenders, and hood all on the car. We did mine this way and it turned out more than acceptable. Remember, the more you do yourself, the less you pay someone else to do it. I found a guy to do it for 500 labor. I helped, and I learned quite a bit along the way to say the least. I had a hand in everything except for spraying. Dont be intimidated to dismantle the f*ck out of it. You will have to loosen the dash to pull out the small trim pieces that are tucked behind. You'll see when you go to take them off.

I suggest getting the energy suspension kit. I think it gives a perfect combination of stiffness and it absorbs bumps well. Here's a good place in my thread that may help you out. There's a lot of dismantling and reassembly and bs. It's practically a documented tear down for the most part. Ratroaster has an excellent thread also. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/show-car-restoration-body-repair/245736-my-progress-thread-9.html