What do You think of this setup?

Copper gaskets are made by SCE. SCE doesnt recommend them to be used on a street car. There is a high probability they will leak. The substane to use on copper head gaskets is a product called Hylomar made by permatex. And the copper gaskets require O-rings that need to be cut into the heads or block to hold the gasket inplace.

After you do copper, then add lots of stop leak to the radiator, else one day there will be seepage into the crankcase or floor.

Andreas, I write to you like if your were my best friend, I respect what your doing. All I can offer is what I have learned from my mistakes.

Look three weeks ago I put on a new electronic boost controller, I raced the car at 23 PSI doing shakedown on new combination,. Made 9 runs at the track, had the motor running cleanly. On the way home my buddy with a 10 second Buick wants to play on the highway.. I mashed the pedal.. the second run I pull from him then poof... the HG lets go. I look at my recall on my boost guage.. 29 PSI. The wire leading to the boost solenoid during movement came free and burned on the exhuast behind the passenger cylinder head.

I have seen injectors fail, fuel pumps fail, wastegate fail, you name it. Sometimes you can walk away.. when your car is tuned for 22-23 PSI..and it goes to 29.. big problem. So i put new HG's and back to the track as usual.

My Camaro was a BBC 454 .030 with an ATI Race Blower. It made 13 PSI.. mild combo. Car ran on street tires 6.80 at 103 1/8 mile. It blew a HG once.. water in oil.. machine shop said.. deck block, o-ring, turn crank from antifreeze.. etc.. assembled motor using copper HG's.. fisrt week..leak out the back of the head.. Pull heads of, reseal, retourque, etc.. racing it, fuel pump dropped pressure.. leaned out.. blew a hole through the piston.. n then it went to .060 over since cylinder wall got damaged, new pistons, etc.. 2500 dollars latter.. tons of work done, tons of hours.. checking everything one night on the highway... boom...

After owning a Buick.. I like fuses. It only takes a few hours to change them.. and keeps the car running. This time the HG's didnt cost me a penny.. only time and oil.

All the machine work you are doing is text book for a race engine. The advice they are giving you is sound, I just realize I am not perfect.. and found a simpler way to keep my car running in case of any part failure.

With the Camaro and blower.. I knew nobody with a similar setup. With the Buick, I know so many.. I just follow those faster than me, and imitate them to the best of my ability while learning from theyre $$$$ costly mistakes.

I'll leave you with this, the fastest 109 Block car in the US.. Roy's car from LAZ racing doesnt run copper. And that car ran 9.4 at 145 through the exhuast at 23 PSI.

And if you want to talk about machine work.. look into lifter bushing one of these blocks.

Build the bottom to be bullet proof, put the steel caps, put the girdle, deck it, line bore, bore the cylinders, get better rods, get the best pistons.. blueprint the oiling system, nothing new. Triple check the clearances, balance the motor, etc.. Put a roller cam.. roller rockers.. build it.

Its your decision, all I want to do is offer my humble opinion.

Doesnt mean I'll be mad becuase you put copper gaskets, on the contrary. At least you will have had the chance to listen and weigh your options. After all a racing engine is full of options.

Peace,

Julio
 
Well said Julio.I dont think your machine shop is giving trying to pull one over on you at all.They just think its a Chevy engine and its not.

Speaking of Americans and performance parts,if it werent for Americans,your machine shop's car wouldnt be fast.After all,the only performance parts he uses are American made.

Also if it werent for the crappy American parts,youd be driving a 4 cylinder.

Like Julio said,the fastest 109 block car in the world doesnt use them,and he runs faster than you EVER will with a PT61.

PS My machinist who recommend's copper HG's has an 8 second V6 Monza and alot more than 30 years experience.They had 3 Stage II engines sitting there when I took them my engine.Doesnt mean they are right in recommending copper HG's.After all,we are all human and we make mistakes sometimes.Your mistake will be copper HG's if you decide to use them.
 
In my opinion, the combo looks pretty good except I personally wouldnt go with 3.73 gears, copper head gaskets, or the sphon torque arm(I prefer the Jegster)but thats just me and what do I know :D

Steve
 
Originally posted by broke1
You put copper HG's on and your block is going to be broken instead of a HG looking like that.

In this case it was my own stupidity that caused the HG. It was the first time I took the car to the track. The car ran very rich, so I started turning the fuel down even though I had no fuel pressure guage. At the same time I started turning the boost up as I had no knocks. On the last run I turned the WG rod up some more, but didn´t check the boost guage, so at the finishline I blew the gaskets.

Originally posted by HighPSI
LOL!

Originally posted by Razor
Experience has spoken :D

Cal is an experienced person, but I really don´t think that "speak" gives much. I´d really apreciate if he would give his oppinion regarding the HG and the engine work in another way.
 
Regarding american engine work...
My heads:
- intake side is polished, not rugged.
- valve seat was very poorly done. Valves leak
- no angle cut

Ulf´s and my engines:
- bad tolerances which causes the rods tend to pinch. Ulf´s was VERY bad

Melvin´s newly imported TTA with F.A.S.T (newly built by "pro´s"):
- one valve spring was broken (why, the car has not been driven?)
- VERY crappy installation of DFI. Loose connections, bad ground, cables where not strained etc
- the tables was WAY wrong (we have swedish pro´s that corrected them for FREE)
- fuel pump was connected with crappy, loose cable clamps

etc, etc, etc

I don´t like cars from east, but if You take a look at those engines You´ll be amazed of the quality and time they´ve spent during the machining and assembly.
 
Originally posted by TTA850
In my opinion, the combo looks pretty good except I personally wouldnt go with 3.73 gears, copper head gaskets, or the sphon torque arm(I prefer the Jegster)but thats just me and what do I know :D

Steve

Just curious, why don´t You guys like the 3.73? I´ve heard from more than one people that they don´t like the idea, but did´nt get a good explanation of why.

What´s wrong with the Spohn?
 
Originally posted by broke1
I dont think your machine shop is giving trying to pull one over on you at all.They just think its a Chevy engine and its not.

Speaking of Americans and performance parts,if it werent for Americans,your machine shop's car wouldnt be fast.After all,the only performance parts he uses are American made.

Also if it werent for the crappy American parts,youd be driving a 4 cylinder.

Like Julio said,the fastest 109 block car in the world doesnt use them,and he runs faster than you EVER will with a PT61.

PS My machinist who recommend's copper HG's has an 8 second V6 Monza and alot more than 30 years experience.They had 3 Stage II engines sitting there when I took them my engine.Doesnt mean they are right in recommending copper HG's.After all,we are all human and we make mistakes sometimes.Your mistake will be copper HG's if you decide to use them.

They build HEMI, Buick, Chevy and Ford...

There are other fast cars, not only american. We have a 9.21 Supra (with nothing deleted), low 9s BMW´s (a few of them, yes), 10s Volvo´s, 10s VW golf etc, etc, etc.

I´ve NEVER mentioned that I´d be running for the quickest 109. And I had already bought the PT-61 before I decided to do all this work. But if I´d like to, well I just have to buy me a new turbo then...

So, no one never listen to what a machine shop says? After all it´s "their" engine and I guess they should know what they´ve built it for?
 
Just because the machining, install,and tuning work youve seen wasnt very good doesnt mean all Americans do work like that.I bet I could find a machine shop in Europe that does crappy work too.Probably alot more in America,but then again a big city has more people than your whole country.Law of averages:)

As for tolerances from the factory,the LC2 is based on a NA v6 that made 120hp(?) and was put in a few hundred thousand cars.As long as it ran for 100k,factory wasnt worried.You see people going 10's with factory short blocks.Same rods,blocks,and heads between the NA engine and the LC2.In other words,these aint performance parts.

I think what tta850 was talking about with the gears is that LC2's make alot of low end torque and steep gears arent really needed.3.73's slow Buicks down.

The work youre talking is at least $5k-$7k in America,id hate to see in Sweden.We just want you to get the most for your $$$ and not have to worry about things that could be avoided and keep money in your pocket that you dont have to spend.

Go into the general tech section and do a search on copper HG's or copper headgaskets and youll find lots of info on them:)

I think your machinist could count the Buick engines hes done on one hand so he doesnt know all the option's.I kinda think thats what Cal is hinting at.
 
Just because the machining, install,and tuning work youve seen wasnt very good doesnt mean all Americans do work like that.I bet I could find a machine shop in Europe that does crappy work too.Probably alot more in America,but then again a big city has more people than your whole country.Law of averages:)

As for tolerances from the factory,the LC2 is based on a NA v6 that made 120hp(?) and was put in a few hundred thousand cars.As long as it ran for 100k,factory wasnt worried.You see people going 10's with factory short blocks.Same rods,blocks,and heads between the NA engine and the LC2.In other words,these aint performance parts.

I think what tta850 was talking about with the gears is that LC2's make alot of low end torque and steep gears arent really needed.3.73's slow Buicks down.

The work youre talking is at least $5k-$7k in America,id hate to see in Sweden.We just want you to get the most for your $$$ and not have to worry about things that could be avoided and keep money in your pocket that you dont have to spend.

Go into the general tech section and do a search on copper HG's or copper headgaskets and youll find lots of info on them:)

I think your machinist could count the Buick engines hes done on one hand so he doesnt know all the option's.I kinda think thats what Cal is hinting at.
 
Everywhere I see You guys praise the work of the cars. I´ve been very impressed of what these engine can handle. And I must say that I´m more impressed now that I´ve seen how they´re assembled.

Melvin has bought Randy Burghs old TTA. It should have been professionaly built with lots of aftermarket stuff. But it needs to be totaly taken apart just to have it reassembled again. Not to talk about the complete electronic installation.

Ofcourse You could find some crappy shops, but if You know the guys and their history, You don´t have to worry.

If You say that the work I´m going to have done with the block and heads would cost You guys at least 5-7k, then Your really ripped off. I´m not even going CLOSE to that.

I don´t want this to be some kind of US vs Sweden "war", that´s not my intention. And I hope no one is getting mad because of these posts. If that is the case, please delete the entire thread.

Best regards from Sweden
/Andreas
 
Necessary machine work or dont even bother:

line bore and fitting billet main caps
bored with torque plate
honed
rods shot peened, magnafluxed,beams polished,and fitted with new bolts
vat and magnaflux block
degree cam
new freeze plugs
hang rods on pistons
balance
blueprint
polish crank
deck block
deck heads
5 angle valve job (overkill is good IMO)
file fit rings
assemble engine

Youre at about $2k with no parts(im missing some things im sure,its early,lol).Then add:

o ring block and heads for copper gaskets
all ARP bolts
3 billet mains $250(?)
JE pistons $600
bearings
rings
10-15 hours on head porting@$50 an hour minimum
assemble heads
timing set
gaskets
head gaskets $150(Comectics or copper)
oil pump
front cover smoothed out or new HV front cover
sfi flexplate $225
sfi balancer $325

Im sure im forgetting stuff again so anyone else feel free to add in.Parts I listed price on(round about figure)add up to around $1600 alone.I meant all the work and parts will be between $5k-$7k.Sorry for the confusion:)

I just finished building my engine with everything above plus cam,lifters,springs,and a few other things(;))minus pistons and ive got $10k plus in my long block.I bought some stuff seperately and it was a while ago but I paid my machinist about $6k.They did supply the cam and accsociated stuff to go along with it.

It adds up quick and im not the best example since I went all out but if you guys can do it cheaper and it not **** up,more power to ya.:)
 
Originally posted by Lunkan
I don´t want this to be some kind of US vs Sweden "war", that´s not my intention. And I hope no one is getting mad because of these posts. If that is the case, please delete the entire thread.

Best regards from Sweden
/Andreas

Why.. this is constructive dialect.. We are here like if we we're having a couple beers talking about this. No flames have been made. Its just options and opinions. The more you have, the better choices you'll have when you make decisions.

What are machine shop labor rates in Sweden per hour?.. US dollars?

Hey nobody's mentioned a girdle :D
 
Im sorry if it seems like I am coming off like seeming rude or pushy(im not meaning it in these posts,lol), we just wanna give all the options so you can decide whats best for you and your pocketbook.

If Sweden is on the Euro,its at $1.2x right now(girlfriends Irish and sends money home alot)

Girdle??Those are only for fat chicks;)
 
The Swedish labor is $53/hr if You don´t know them. Sweden does not have Euro, we have Swedish Krona, SKr. 1Euro = 9.19SKr, 1USD = 7.46SKr

I´ve seen discussions like these, on many other BB, where people have started calling eachother things You´d later regret.

I´ve already got the parts except for the pistons and bearings, and I´ll still go with the .030 pistons. If it breaks, I´ll get me a stage or aluminum block.

The only thing the shop is doing, is machine the stuff. I´ll do all the assembly myself.
 
Originally posted by Lunkan

I´ve seen discussions like these, on many other BB, where people have started calling eachother things You´d later regret.

I´ve already got the parts except for the pistons and bearings,

What happens at other boards.. happens there.

I know you needed pistons, hence why I give you some options. I hope you can do the same for me someday ;)

Aluminum block.. I know where there is one ready to go for sale.. best of everything...complete.. crank, rods, pistons, etc.. except has American machining :D So you'll need to fix that ;)
 
Originally posted by Razor
I know you needed pistons, hence why I give you some options. I hope you can do the same for me someday ;)

I don´t want a half done work. I everything be straight and round. When messured, it was not "near" that.

Originally posted by Razor
Aluminum block.. I know where there is one ready to go for sale.. best of everything...complete.. crank, rods, pistons, etc.. except has American machining :D So you'll need to fix that ;)

How much is it? Maybe I´ll just buy in case... :p
 
I think Julio's refering to the short block Cal has for I think $12k usd.Hate to see what it cost to ship that bad boy round the world.And with shipping companies,id travel next to something that expensive to make sure they handle it right:)
 
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