What Do I Need To Convert To Vacuum Brake's???

[ReaL99]

My 2nd Powermaster Unit has failed and I am not waiting around for 2 month's when one becomes available in my area.I got 2 reply's that guys were selling there Powermaster but with no warranty its a little risky to do.What difference is there as far as braking when switching to vacuum brake's I have seen some thread's where guys hated the vacuum brake's compared to the Powermaster Unit.Just want to do the right thing here.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Not sure but I do know my last Regal had vacuum brakes that stopped on a dime, but it wasn't a turbo car. I only wished my current Regal had the same stopping power. Feels like stepping on a plum.

 

[ReaL99]

Not sure but I do know my last Regal had vacuum brakes that stopped on a dime, but it wasn't a turbo car. I only wished my current Regal had the same stopping power. Feels like stepping on a plum.[/QUOE]

Does your current Regal have a Powermaster??

 

["Turbo-T"]

Yes it does. Not as efficient as my vacuum brakes IMO.

 

[scottk]

vaccum brakes

You need a brake pedal from a non turbo G-body! plus a master cylinder and booster! Its a easy conversion

 

[ReaL99]

You need a brake pedal from a non turbo G-body! plus a master cylinder and booster! Its a easy conversion

It sounds easy but I have never did brake's or anything associated with them.I can go find the parts and then have some shop take the Powermaster out in place of the vacuum brakes.I don't even think I have 8,000 miles on that brand new GM Unit i purchased new about 13 years ago.

 

[cruzn57]

contact "Red Regal T"

on this board, he sells the whole kit, with instructions,and pedal.
I've bought 2 of them from him, for 2 of my cars, you'll love it, and never go back to maybemaster!!!!!
there used, but carefully chosen , never had a problem.
and less than $200 .

 

[ReaL99]

on this board, he sells the whole kit, with instructions,and pedal.
I've bought 2 of them from him, for 2 of my cars, you'll love it, and never go back to maybemaster!!!!!
there used, but carefully chosen , never had a problem.
and less than $200 .

thanks for the reply but Im not going to be doing the conversion myself.I'd rather buy the parts new if there under $200.

 

[bmackinnon]

Like I said in my earlier post, go to napa and order a NEW master cyl/vac booster ASSEMBLY for a 1987 V8 Regal. The booster comes with the pushrod, and you simply remove the powermaster and adapter during the install, and the new assembly bolts right up. The only other thing you'll need is the pedal - from any mid 80's G-Body with vac. brakes (regal, monte, cutlass, grand prix), and about 4 feet of 3/8 vac. hose, and a 3/8" plastic 'T'. If you want, I'll take a pic of how my vac is plumbed, and you can give it to the installer to duplicate. Excellent instructions for the swap that you can print out and give to the installer are on gnttype.org... hell, here's the link...
Powermaster To Vacuum Brake Conversion
Vacuum Brake Swap

It's super easy and straight forward. Hardest thing is changing the pedal (1 bolt and 1 pin), and that is only annoying because of the inconvenient location of the parts.

 

[ReaL99]

Like I said in my earlier post, go to napa and order a NEW master cyl/vac booster ASSEMBLY for a 1987 V8 Regal. The booster comes with the pushrod, and you simply remove the powermaster and adapter during the install, and the new assembly bolts right up. The only other thing you'll need is the pedal - from any mid 80's G-Body with vac. brakes (regal, monte, cutlass, grand prix), and about 4 feet of 3/8 vac. hose, and a 3/8" plastic 'T'. If you want, I'll take a pic of how my vac is plumbed, and you can give it to the installer to duplicate. Excellent instructions for the swap that you can print out and give to the installer are on gnttype.org... hell, here's the link...
Powermaster To Vacuum Brake Conversion
Vacuum Brake Swap

It's super easy and straight forward. Hardest thing is changing the pedal (1 bolt and 1 pin), and that is only annoying because of the inconvenient location of the parts.

Thanks for the information. Im wondering when I find a car with a brake pedal how do I take it off especially since you have to wedge yourself in there to do it.

 

[bmackinnon]

Thanks for the information. Im wondering when I find a car with a brake pedal how do I take it off especially since you have to wedge yourself in there to do it.

The yard will likely remove the pedal assy for you... You can change JUST the pedal, or the whole pedal/bracket assy. The yard gave me the whole assy, but I just swapped the pedal over, leaving my original pedal bracket intact under the dash, as it seemed easier than trying to wrestle the whole bracket out of the wiring spagetti. PLUS - if you leave your original bracket in, you don't have to mess around with swapping over/adjusting the brake lite/cruise switches. They just stay where they are. Tell your mechanic to make note of which socket/u-joint/extension(s) combination he uses for each bolt during the disassembly, as it makes it alot easier going back together, without RE-figuring out how to get to 'that' dam bolt! :smile:

Barring the yard removing it for you, read the links I sent you, they tell how to get it out... and bring an assortment of extensions ujoints, regular and deep sockets, wrenches, pliers, etc. It's easy, but also frustrating due to the space limitations/contortion requirements .... :wink:

 

[ReaL99]

The yard will likely remove the pedal assy for you... You can change JUST the pedal, or the whole pedal/bracket assy. The yard gave me the whole assy, but I just swapped the pedal over, leaving my original pedal bracket intact under the dash, as it seemed easier than trying to wrestle the whole bracket out of the wiring spagetti. PLUS - if you leave your original bracket in, you don't have to mess around with swapping over/adjusting the brake lite/cruise switches. They just stay where they are. Tell your mechanic to make note of which socket/u-joint/extension(s) combination he uses for each bolt during the disassembly, as it makes it alot easier going back together, without RE-figuring out how to get to 'that' dam bolt! :smile:

Barring the yard removing it for you, read the links I sent you, they tell how to get it out... and bring an assortment of extensions ujoints, regular and deep sockets, wrenches, pliers, etc. It's easy, but also frustrating due to the space limitations/contortion requirements .... :wink:

Im sure ESP Products close by me knows how to do this.15 years ago I bought there CNC Ported Race cylinder Heads along with matching ported Intake,ESP front mount intercooler and alot of other extra things.They quoted me a price of $200 to $250 for removal and installation of a new Powermaster.I wonder if this will take the same amount of time or more or less.Nonetheless it sounds alot cheaper then the $900 it would have cost me to buy another Powermaster $575 to $650 plus $250 for installation.I hope the yard would remove it because I would lose a little patience under there.I would probably take a fit if I got stuck on something.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I like # 14:

14. Place your old slugmaster in a cardboard box and place it in the 'long term' storage facility you employ. Keep it for at least 3 years, so when you throw the darn thing out, you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you kept it long enough to know if you made a good decision to upgrade (down grade if you will) your brakes. Be sure to write Powermaster, keep until 1998 on the container. This is because you will likely never have anymore brake problems and will therefore totally forget all about what a powermaster is and the date will make you feel like it is ok to throw it in the rubbish.

I think now I'd hang onto it, so in 20 years someone who is restoring their TR to original will give me 3 X the amount they normally sell for now, for it. One mans trash is anothers treasure. Haven't we learned from the price of muscle car parts yet?

 

[turbojd]

Thanks for the information. Im wondering when I find a car with a brake pedal how do I take it off especially since you have to wedge yourself in there to do it.

When I did the vacuum brake conversion I used the powermaster brake pedal, you simply have to line it up and mark out where a new hole has to be drilled. Re-drill hole and check for proper alignment.

 

[just plain john]

No one has mentioned the vacuum block, where the vacuum signal is sourced. You'll need the turbo Trans Am block, listed as the vacuum conversion block. $45 at gbodyparts.com, but most of the other vendors sell them as well. The turbo TA's came with the vacuum set up from the factory, so that's good enough for me. Good luck.

 

[BLACK6PACK]

Im sure ESP Products close by me knows how to do this.15 years ago I bought there CNC Ported Race cylinder Heads along with matching ported Intake,ESP front mount intercooler and alot of other extra things.They quoted me a price of $200 to $250 for removal and installation of a new Powermaster.I wonder if this will take the same amount of time or more or less.Nonetheless it sounds alot cheaper then the $900 it would have cost me to buy another Powermaster $575 to $650 plus $250 for installation.I hope the yard would remove it because I would lose a little patience under there.I would probably take a fit if I got stuck on something.

Its a half hour job! I changed out my PM unit for a new one about 6 years ago, and it took me about 10 minutes.

 

[cruzn57]

check the prices

I'm positive you'll find NAPA alot more than $200,
John (red regal T) has been around a long time, and will stand behind his product, if you have to go get a pedal anyhow, why not just buy the assy from Red Regal T? you could drill the old pedal, thats up to you,
10 min to change the whole assy and pedal??? Hmmm , I wish it took me 10 min, more like an hour from start to finish,
but then I usually check my work before I drive it, so theres never a problem,
also as mentioned, you will need vacumn source, the blocks are avail from several vendors ,
like I said, you'll be glad you changed,
good luck!

 

[ReaL99]

I'm positive you'll find NAPA alot more than $200,
John (red regal T) has been around a long time, and will stand behind his product, if you have to go get a pedal anyhow, why not just buy the assy from Red Regal T? you could drill the old pedal, thats up to you,
10 min to change the whole assy and pedal??? Hmmm , I wish it took me 10 min, more like an hour from start to finish,
but then I usually check my work before I drive it, so theres never a problem,
also as mentioned, you will need vacumn source, the blocks are avail from several vendors ,
like I said, you'll be glad you changed,
good luck!

Aren't the parts all used that he sells?? Im not saying red regal t isn't reputable?? Do you know how much for everything??

 

[ReaL99]

I'm positive you'll find NAPA alot more than $200,
John (red regal T) has been around a long time, and will stand behind his product, if you have to go get a pedal anyhow, why not just buy the assy from Red Regal T? you could drill the old pedal, thats up to you,
10 min to change the whole assy and pedal??? Hmmm , I wish it took me 10 min, more like an hour from start to finish,
but then I usually check my work before I drive it, so theres never a problem,
also as mentioned, you will need vacumn source, the blocks are avail from several vendors ,
like I said, you'll be glad you changed,
good luck!

Yeah probably over $250.Im trying to find out what a shop charges for the conversion as I won't be doing the swap myself??

 

[88 CuttyClassic]

im no expert but i've heard vacum brakes wont hold well building boost at the line. has anyone added a vacum pump to compensate for that?