What cam for this combo??

[mustangmark50]

Stock crank
Billet main caps
Scat rods
Diamond Pistons
Champion CNC iron heads
ARP studs
ported and polished stock upper and lower intakes
ported throttle body
Posten's headers
2.5 hooker exhaust
THDP 3"
Vigilante 5 disc 3000 stall l/u
6262 jb turbo
GN1 front mount IC
120 lb injectors
Modded ECM Quad Air
Wideband O2 sensor
TT e85 chip
XP Pump with hot wire
Power logger and scanmaster

What cam is best for this combo? Car is driven daily with occasional track use. Looking for 10's if possible.

 

[Nick Micale]

As for the cam, my choice would be a 212/212, preferably a roller for added lift.

I have comments on other parts in your combo, first the fuel system should be at least twin pumps for e-85 in the 10's.

The converter stall is too low for for track use, and not optimum for street use either. The 5 disk converter is very heavy as compared to others, which makes it slower spooling

Why you would use a stock crank with that build as that will be the weak link in holding enough power at your desired level?

My info is based upon a few local mid-10 sec builds we have recently completed which have put smiles on the owners face.

 

[mustangmark50]

What converter do you recommend? I plan on switching to a Racetronix e85 fuel pump. I was told the stock crank with billet main caps was ok for 10's. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Nick Micale]

If you are going with a single 400 series fuel pump, that should be ok.

I just trashed another 25+ year old cast crank in a street GN, so it is a crap shoot of how long it will last at that power level. Others swear by them in the 10's, I swear at them as I have seen too many issues with them in performance builds.

With the price of a forged crank equal to the price of 2 steel caps installed, this choice is a no-brained to me, do both, but I would take the crank over the caps. Maybe I am somewhat opinionated on this subject, but after building a few hundred 10 sec engine builds over the years I have seen lots of carnage others have never seen?

You need to find an experienced vendor for a proper converter, as most will give one free re-stall if not right. I use Hughes Performance locally, and receive great service from them when I spec a converter.

For many years the "real" Art Carr converter has also been a good choice for a stock upgrade converter.

 

[rag231]

I second the motion on the stock crank. Forged strokers are very reasonable.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

I have the same build you do...and a 6262 JB. AC 16930 in my car which stalls around 3000-3200. Time is in my sig...which equates to a 10.87.

 

[bison]

The cam won't matter as long as it's not introducing a bunch of overlap

 

[TurboBuick86]

I ran with my "STOCK CRANK" all the way to 9.3's @ 145 MPH on E85!


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[mustangmark50]

What happened? Still running it??

 

[TurboBuick86]

Nah it finally give after 11yrs of racing lol. Tho i bought it new from GM back then.


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[Jerryl]

I ran with my "STOCK CRANK" all the way to 9.3's @ 145 MPH on E85!


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Nah it finally give after 11yrs of racing lol. Tho i bought it new from GM back then.


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There should be one clarifying statement to go along with that; You know how to tune.

Most (myself included) will blow shit up waaaaay before that.

 

[TurboBuick86]

Lol


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[87buickracer]

Anywhere from a 206 to 214 roller cam would get the job done..206 is a good roller for daily driver and has been low 10's..my choice would be a 210 or 212 roller. ..
Hth

 

[turbo nasty]

206 to a 210 cam roller preffered no need for more imo just moves the power up higher and isn't as fun on the street.

 

[87buickracer]

I have two friends running the 210 roller cam and their cars are very quick on the street and track with 9 inch converter and ported heads...both cars are capable of 10 second time slips with the right turbo and fuel supply. .

 

[V6POWER]

I am running the stock crank/rods but I agree with Nick. When the crank breaks, it won't be pretty. My 1/8 mile time should be a 10 second quarter.

 

[bison]

I am running the stock crank/rods but I agree with Nick. When the crank breaks, it won't be pretty. My 1/8 mile time should be a 10 second quarter.

Id be more concerned with the block breaking than the crank. Ive broken several blocks. Never broke a crank.

 

[Street Lethal]

There should be one clarifying statement to go along with that; You know how to tune. Most (myself included) will blow shit up waaaaay before that.

You will be an excellent tuner once you start contemplating the why in tuning...

 

[turbo96max]

subscribed. Im piecing together a future longblock that i hope to run almost identical mods and a 6266 and also am wondering about the steel crank vs stock with girdle . as far as claims of stock parts going XZY time. I would caution anyone taking internet claims as real life unless you see the block and parts first hand.

 

[TurboBuick86]

Turbo96max.. If you are replying to me as if you are telling everyone or who ever not to believe that you can run crazy times with b/s parts & as i was saying "stock crank" well buddy, i still have the whole entire motor still all put together for anyone who also may think i'm b/s ing here. As for you.. How are you doing & how fast have you gone so far?


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