Hey guys, I havent driven the car in the past 3-4 years other than moving up and down the driveway. Well its now insured and today I took it out for a decent cruise. When I was going about 1/2- 3/4 throttle I was getting about 19* of knock on the scanmaster. Now ive been out of the loop on these cars for a while now so my memory is a little foggy, but 19* seems kind of high. Any tips on how I should lower that? Thanks
What a reasonable amount of Knock?
- Thread starter 84wh1
- Start date
19 degrees is pretty severe, especially at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Do you have any idea of what boost you were at?
I'd check the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Look at BLMs when giving it throttle and see were they are at.
Just like Grumpy said "No Knock". You can get away with a little knock, but knock robs you of performance.
I'd check the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Look at BLMs when giving it throttle and see were they are at.
Just like Grumpy said "No Knock". You can get away with a little knock, but knock robs you of performance.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Clean the fuel system?
Fresh fuel pump?
19* is a REALLY good path to the "DOTC club"..
Fresh fuel pump?
19* is a REALLY good path to the "DOTC club"..
Hey guys,
Just in regards to the knock im getting, my car was parked for about 3 years and still has the same fuel as it did when I parked it. I had put fuel stabilizer but its still old gas. I know the gas is old but ive since added 30 litres of premium fuel as well as a bottle of "gas treatment" and "fuel injector cleaner".
The fuel pump was replaced with a Poston unit several years ago and you can still hear it when you turn on the car.
I believe my boost is set to around 16-17 pounds, however because of the knock, I dont want to go WOT to find out. Im actually not too sure what the fuel pressure is set to as my guage broke and I still havent bought a new one.
As a general rule of thumb, whats a good number to have the fuel pressue and boost set at to minimize knock and have a decent, quick driver (not a racer at all, just a quick cruising car). Thanks
Just in regards to the knock im getting, my car was parked for about 3 years and still has the same fuel as it did when I parked it. I had put fuel stabilizer but its still old gas. I know the gas is old but ive since added 30 litres of premium fuel as well as a bottle of "gas treatment" and "fuel injector cleaner".
The fuel pump was replaced with a Poston unit several years ago and you can still hear it when you turn on the car.
I believe my boost is set to around 16-17 pounds, however because of the knock, I dont want to go WOT to find out. Im actually not too sure what the fuel pressure is set to as my guage broke and I still havent bought a new one.
As a general rule of thumb, whats a good number to have the fuel pressue and boost set at to minimize knock and have a decent, quick driver (not a racer at all, just a quick cruising car). Thanks
Most chip makers want the fuel presssure to be at 43 lbs. Tested with the vacuum line off at idle.
You should be able to go 15 PSI fairly comfortably with a stock turbo (i'm guessing that's what you have) with 93 octane pump gas.
Honestly your knock could be any number of things from false knock to clogged injectors to vacuum leaks to a bad MAF sensor,etc... Like I stated before 19 degrees when your at most 1/2 throttle is not a good sign. Does the engine sound health at idle?
You should be able to go 15 PSI fairly comfortably with a stock turbo (i'm guessing that's what you have) with 93 octane pump gas.
Honestly your knock could be any number of things from false knock to clogged injectors to vacuum leaks to a bad MAF sensor,etc... Like I stated before 19 degrees when your at most 1/2 throttle is not a good sign. Does the engine sound health at idle?
Yeah the car runs super smooth at idle. Rpm stays steady and it's smooth. The car always runs at 170 deg and never gets hotter than that. When I go heavy on the gas it's accelerates pretty good but sometimes has a little lag. It's quiot on heavy gas and before I had a scan master I didn't know I was getting any knock at all.
I'd check for something loose that could be banging around the engine. Seems like it could be false knock of some type.
Sounds good, ill take a look. BTW, one more question. Today when I got into my car, turned the ignition to start it, it turned over a couple times then made a "pop" sound. I then tried again, and it fired up like a champ. Any ideas what the "pop" sounds could have been?
Probably too much fuel in the cylinder(s) when it finally got spark. Does it do this often??
On the knock side of things, how old are your motor mounts?
As for the "pop" sound, it doesnt do it too often. Ive heard it before, but its been a while since its done it. Maybe every 15-20 starts. as for the motor mounts, I have no idea. I would say there original. Ive never changed them and ive owned the car for 10 years.
If they are 26 yo motor mounts I'd definitely suggest replacing them. Can't say they are the source of the knock, but sure can't hurt to replace them.
How are the plugs and wires looking??
BRAD_PADGETT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
X2 here. My car backfires and pops through the intake when the spark plug wires start going bad or are already bad. Heat tears std. wires up real fast. Check the wires with an OHM meter. All should be within 10% of each other. One idea. Brad
well im not sure about the plugs but the wires seem good. there about 5 years old but have no cracks or melted spots. There about 5 years old now, but the car was parked for 3-4 years so the wires dont have tons of wear on them. The plugs are probably around the same age but I have thought about replacing those. Any idea on what are the best plugs for the car? What should they be gapped at? Thanks
You'll get varying options on this one. I run NGK UR5's gapped at 0.032
Thanks for the reply but ive got more questions here. My car sort of crapped out on me last night and im not sure why. I was pulling into a parking lot when all of a sudden the car sputtered and stalled. I tried to start it but it would stall out almost instantly. It did that a few times and then when i tried to start it agin, it BACKFIRED really loud! Nothing like the little "pop" sound its made before but it sounded like a shotgun going off beside my car!
. So after a minute or so of trying, it started fine and was able to drive and park it. An hour later when I left to go home, it started fine and didnt give me any problem driving home (which was about 7 km away).
Do you think this could still be wires and plugs? I really want to adjust this problem but unformtunately I wont have time to work on the car in the next few weeks.
. So after a minute or so of trying, it started fine and was able to drive and park it. An hour later when I left to go home, it started fine and didnt give me any problem driving home (which was about 7 km away). Do you think this could still be wires and plugs? I really want to adjust this problem but unformtunately I wont have time to work on the car in the next few weeks.
BRAD_PADGETT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
The odds are that your problem is one of four issues-MAF, Coil PAK, Coil Module or spark plug wires. An ohm meter will identify bad coil PAK and wires really quickly- ten minutes. Swap out the MAF amd coil module in order to quickly identify these problem areas. Brad
BRAD_PADGETT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
MAF- AF 04-07 at idle in park. Brad
