valve springs

[Turboboy]

I am going to do valve springs on the gn this weekend and was wondering what all do i need to do the job. I have valve springs from kirbans, i have valve seals for the intake side?, i have the valve spring tool, valve cover gaskets, and an aircompressor. I dont need any spacers or anything do i? Anyone have any suggestions on the best way to do this? thanks

 

[231V6]

i dont know whitch valve spring removal tool u have ,but i use the hose from my compression tester to inflate the cylinder. that holds the valve from going anywhere and makes springs easy to remove.(three things to remember, 1- you will need to remove the schrader valve from the hose before you screw it into the spark plug hole, 2-make sure the piston is at bottom of bore BEFORE you apply air to the hose, 3-NEVER LOOK DIRECTALLY INTO THE PATH OF A VALVE SPRING AS IT SHOOTS OUT OF THE REMOVAL TOOL!!!!!

 

[MSDGN]

Sounds like your set...might want to have a telescoping magnet tool...easier to get the keepers out with it...only other advice is as you do each cylinder set the piston at TDC before applying the air pressure...by doing this if you lose air pressure when the spring is off the valve will only drop about a 1/4"...if it drops into the cylinder you won't be happy person...you can use a wood dowel or a screwdriver(carefully) to determine if piston is at TDC...make sure after you apply the air pressure that the piston is still at TDC...sometimes if the piston isn't at the very top of the stroke the air will push it down and you have to start over...keep an eye on the front of the engine as you apply the air pressure...you will see the engine spin a little if the piston moves...also stuff rags in the oil drain-back holes in the corners of the heads...don't want any of the keepers to fall into the engine...

 

[NM Tom]

If you are using the Kirban tool, make sure you beef up the welds on the rocker arm that is attached to the rod. My welds broke on the second spring. After welding it worked great.

 

[Smokin_GN]

Sorry to jump in on your thread....but I have a questions about valve springs...

Which are the best springs for a stock motor? I've heard the 100's are too much and can possibly wipe the cam, and the Comp Cam 980's are better choice....

any opinions, suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[MSDGN]

Really?...I've done about 5 sets of valve springs with my Kirbans tool and it's still going strong...

 

[salvageV6]

Clean shop rags and towels to cover the oil ports and down below the head near the headers so you don't lose parts down there.

Cleaning fluid such as brakeclean or a solvent to clean and blow out the pushrods before replacement, I lightly burnished off the outside varnish with a wire brush wheel on my grinder.

Fresh quart of oil to pour some on them during replacement and on the valve train prior to restarting if you want to.

I put all the pushrods back in their original holes in their original top to bottom orientation.

Magnet on a stick is a must.

You may want to crank over or start the car after each side is done, before installing the valve covers, just to make sure the pushrods are perfect and the valvetrain is all moving properly and the same amount.

Torque wrench for the top valve train bolts is also needed.

Heavy duty rocker shafts and new plastic buttons is a good idea too.

 

[Smokin_GN]

I;ve just read it here and there sometimes... Just wondering if anyone had problems with those LT1 100's or not...

Maybe they were playing it safe and going with the 980's for SLIGHTLY less pressure... IDK....LOL