Unique water injection idea

Alvin

New Member
Joined
May 21, 2003
Hello guys,

I've got a unique water injection idea...

How bout running a EFI fuel pump out of an container to a spare fuel injector mounted in the intake. 1/2 inch tubing fits perfectly over injectors with a hose clamp and healthy o-rings it should be fine

Then tap the injector wiring harness to run this injector along with the rest of the injectors. This would control the injector so that water is deleverd as fuel is needed.. Less fuel at lower RPM/boost and more at high. It seems seamless.

You could then use a pressure regulator to modify how much water is delieverd and a Hobbs switch to limit the water only when the car is in boost.

I'm building a 93 LT1 with a Eaton m112 (lighting blower), the car is praticly finished but i would like to investigate some cooling ideas. I'm stuck with out a intercooler because of clearance.

here are some pictures http://community.webshots.com/album/73249682zNpxhw
 
Your idea is basically sound, and, in fact, sophisticated variations of this scheme are marketed by a couple outfits, Aquamist being one. Good luck!
 
good idea but ive heard water will seize up a fuel injectors internals pretty quickly. bruce on this forum did a similar thing with the 7th injector kit and had it running full time and was able to remove his intercooler and run just like he used to with an intercooler but i think the i/c is going back on. here is the link to his experiment:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/nointercooler.html

:cool:
 
yes, water will eventually seize the injector. There are other issues with this scheme, such as the non-linear relatiionship between boost and fluid flow.
 
Aquamist sells a device called a High Speed Valve that is water tolerant and can be tapped into the injector drive to function in the way you want.

Tapping into the injector drive is nice, because you do get the benefit of a progressive water alky control, at least for load conditions up to LV8=255, but you will continue to have RPM influence the frequency of injection. After that, as boost climbs, you're on your own, as Steve Hill suggests.

If you're set on using an injector, get a stainless one from an old flex-fuel lumina or ford taurus. The stainless ones ought to live with a water-alky mix.
 
Just checked out Alvin's photos. Wow, quite a project, and looks great. And, boy! is that a tight fit!
That Eaton should give a fat mid-range torque boost, unlike the centrifugal-style, which produce max boost only at max rpm.
That sheet metal airbox is ideal for one or two teeny-tiny Aquamist nozzle(s). Use a high current-rated Hobbs to trigger a pump and you're good to go. Dman taps in a parallel connected accumulator tank w/solenoid for instant-on pressurization, and it works slick.
Good luck, Alvin, with that project.
 
Thanks,

Its been really fun, the car cranked last sunday but the blower turned out to be bad and I had to mail it off for a rebuild. I bought it originally from a company who rebuilds them so its under warrente.

I've thought about trying to get a old AC condensor or maybe like a tranny cooler hack it up weld up the ends (it would have to be a steel for me in that case) and fit it into the lower intake. The lower intake is only about 1 inch tall and 5 inches wide so i'm really limited on effectiveness and size

I would like to eventually use some sort of water injection, i've always loved the idea of water injection especially after seeing an in dept article about its effect on fuel economy when used all the time. I just don't understand how you guys use a "dumb" on or off system. It seems beter if you could have a carb venturi meter the water or map into the fuel injection

I want to intercool it somehow because we are talking about Eaton's delta temps charts of 150+ at 10psi all on a motor with 10.5:1 compression. The way the blower is pulleyd it should make about 7-8psi right now.

Oh, these blowers are reallyu not designed for a fluild and I think if i sprayed water before the blower i would stress it out pretty bad, with the tight clearances and lobe design it would seem to want to hydrolock it self at different positions
 
Originally posted by DMan
Aquamist sells a device called a High Speed Valve that is water tolerant and can be tapped into the injector drive to function in the way you want.

Tapping into the injector drive is nice, because you do get the benefit of a progressive water alky control, at least for load conditions up to LV8=255, but you will continue to have RPM influence the frequency of injection. After that, as boost climbs, you're on your own, as Steve Hill suggests.

If you're set on using an injector, get a stainless one from an old flex-fuel lumina or ford taurus. The stainless ones ought to live with a water-alky mix.

Funny you should mention the speed valve. I just posted that I was using it in a kit I'm building. It's a great idea, but Brad at Georges Imports advised me to use it in the first stage only because of the small amount of water that it delivers. He said you may need a couple more to go the entire route. (he installs these systems on Subarus)

Problem is that they are $174 each!

This has me wondering how they work, and more importantly, how to make one myself! :)

With any luck, I should be able to begin testing my kit Monday or tuesday. I'll post the results then.
 
Top