Turn Signal Stalk Replacement

[pjnutt]

From my reading it appears as though my brake light issue may be turn signal stalk related. I found a great link on how to do it, however; I can't seem to get the new turn sign stalk end, rather fat, to feed down into the steering column. Does anyone have any advice. Does anyone know how to remove parts of the steering column to make this any easier? Wife and kids are gone and it's time to get the GN back on the road.

Any and all help is always appreciated.

Thanks,
PjNutt

 

[HotAirGN]

Is this what you need?
Don't really think you have to remove the steering wheel though.


1. Remove steering wheel, lower steering column covers and steering lock plate cover, if equipped.
2. Disconnect mode control connector from main harness connector and attach a suitable length of flexible wire to mode control harness.
3. Tape joint between main and control harness to aid removal, then remove control assembly, Fig. 10.
4. Reverse procedure to install.

 

[kh440]

Steering wheel doesn't need to come off, but it gives you a little better view of things. I've been lucky enough to use a straightened piece of wire coat hanger fo feed the wiring through the column. It's not as bad as it looks....

 

[pjnutt]

I tried the metal coat hanger through the column, I just can't see where the heck it's supposed to go, lots of stuff in there. I'm willing to pull some stuff apart to make this process easier. I may just go borrow a steering wheel puller from AutoZone, unless there's some "tricks" I am missing........

 

[Randy Hagins]

I went to NAPA and bought some mechanic wire. Looped it through the original turn signal stalk wire so when you pull it through the mechanic wire pulls with it. Then, take the mechanic wire off of the original stalk wire and loop it through the new stalk wire then pull it through steering column. I was done with the stalk change out in about 30 minutes.

 

[HighMileage]

I went to NAPA and bought some mechanic wire. Looped it through the original turn signal stalk wire so when you pull it through the mechanic wire pulls with it. Then, take the mechanic wire off of the original stalk wire and loop it through the new stalk wire then pull it through steering column. I was done with the stalk change out in about 30 minutes.

I've done the same thing with this type of GM column,only I used dental floss instead of wire.
Tie it on down below...pull the wire and floss up thru the column...untie the floss from the old signal stalk harness...tie to new..
Use the remaining floss under the dash to pull the new signal wire down thru the column.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

Ok I have to ask if you all actually did this or are talkin S@#t?
First off this was a hard thing to get done. My experience was that the original wire would not come out. There were so many wires and other things that the wire got caught on. I both had to remove the wheel and take the column out of the car to do this. I wound up cutting the original wire to get it out. Now it was near impossible to get the wire through the first half of the column there is no room in there to get the end clip of the cruise wire through. I almost ripped the end clip off getting it to pull through the first half of the column.I was ready to cut the wire and reconnect once I got the wire through. Once you make it past the tilt of the column its a cake walk from there. I'm sorry if I offend some of you guys but you should try walking on water if you got this done so easily.
Maybe a straight column wouldn't be so bad. There is just no room in there to slide the wire through unless you start removing some of the internal of the column or cut the wire and do it. I would definitely take the steering wheel off the pull the column out and save your back from having to bend down to get this done. Good luck.

 

[threerail]

no chit talkin on this board,.... ever. it didnt work for you cause you run a small turbo compressor, gotta run a 61 or larger and alky, bigger wheel gives more access room and the alcohol mixed with coke will make you feel a whole lot better when u start gettin pissed and cussin at the fuc***er, try it next time,... promise it works. oh and yeah, most of us walk on water too, were just keepin it on the down low..ssshhh dont tell the mustang guys. man, some people just shouldnt use tools...

 

[chops]

I've done dozens of switches through out the years jus becareful on how everything goes back very fragile!!!!

 

[aminga]

The stalk has nothing to do with the brake light. It's all in the turn signal switch down in the column

 

[turbobooster]

Well I just f*^%# myself!!! I had about 90% of the old stalk wire out until It got caught at the last 2 inches before it completely comes out and the damn connector broke at the wires luckily I had a wire hooked to it so I was still able to pull out the connector from out the bottom... So now I don't know where to begin to try and get the new stalk in there? Is my only choice now to get a steering wheel puller? Am I going to have to remove the plastic covers right behind the steering wheel? Any help or advice would be very helpful ..... I didn't have a good feeling about this from the minute it started coming out lol oh well this is where I am at now thanx

 

[salvageV6]

You should be able to snake up or down soft copper wire smaller diameter than a coat hanger.

A 16 gauge reasonably stiff single conductor wire may also act like a snake and work.

Then again that repair really has nothing to do with the brake lights.

 

[pjnutt]

Well from a guy whose been there, along with tons of other bs on my GN. I tried the "fish" method, it didn't not work! You have to take a 90 degree turn and mine would not budge. What made it easier for me, a steering wheel puller, a lock plate compressor, and some patience. Once you remote the steering wheel and lock plate, there's plenty of room to push the new wire through. Reassembly is a breeze.

My .02 from someone who has been there.

PjNutt

 

[aminga]

Then again that repair really has nothing to do with the brake lights.

+1

 

[pjnutt]

Well, I replaced it and my brake lights worked last fall. Then when I took it out of storage this spring, they aint workin', so you may have a point. Guess I'm looking for a stressed white wire under the dash in a harmonica lookin' connector. Any one else have any input?

 

[pacecarta]

nothing to do with the brakes are on the column ,
cruise, wipers, hi-low headlight, turn signal,hazards , horn, reverse lights , nuetral start ...yes problem could be at column ..brakes NO

look at the push in brake switches to the left of the column infront of the pedal arm

 

[salvageV6]

White wire on the top of the connector closest to the driver.

It gets stressed since it's the furthest away from the harness.

Remove the plastic black piece that goes over the fuse panel, two screws and the 10mm nut on the stud.

Then remove the two screws for the A/C lower vent and remove that.

Then looking up from the drivers side floor on the bottom right side of the steering column as you face it should be an attached long multi-cavity harmonica looking connector.

First wire should be white and look a bit stressed tight in the connector, should have +12 on it, both sides of the white wire, with the brake pedal pressed down.

You can test it as found both sides together with a sewing needle or sharp voltmeter probe through the insulation and use a good metal ground for the negative side of the voltmeter.

It's relatively easy to find and fix, unlike that cruise stalk wire.

 

[salvageV6]

Actually that white wire does indeed feed the column, the wire goes through the normally closed contacts of the hazard flasher switch which is located in the column.

And yes the brake switches do have to work and supply power out, the white output wire is on contact A and the High level brake light is on contact B a light blue wire with black stripe.

 

[salvageV6]

It should be labeled on the connector for cavity P, although the labeling is much harder to see on it than the wire colors.

 

[pjnutt]

White wire on the top of the connector closest to the driver.

It gets stressed since it's the furthest away from the harness.

Remove the plastic black piece that goes over the fuse panel, two screws and the 10mm nut on the stud.

Then remove the two screws for the A/C lower vent and remove that.

Then looking up from the drivers side floor on the bottom right side of the steering column as you face it should be an attached long multi-cavity harmonica looking connector.

First wire should be white and look a bit stressed tight in the connector, should have +12 on it, both sides of the white wire, with the brake pedal pressed down.

You can test it as found both sides together with a sewing needle or sharp voltmeter probe through the insulation and use a good metal ground for the negative side of the voltmeter.

It's relatively easy to find and fix, unlike that cruise stalk wire.

You are correct, that did it! Updated the other thread also.