Turbo Wastegate question help me please!

[gm5150]

I have a TA49 turbo.
When the car is running, or under normal driving. Should the wastegate be all the way to the right with the puck closed? as shown here:

Then when I get on the throttle the actuator should push the puck open correct?

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Yes it should only open once you're at your set boost psi

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Actuator will not open just getting on the throttle. Not until you have reached set boost pressure and that's not going to happen sitting in the driveway

 

[gm5150]

I ask this question because I adjusted the actuator arm, prior to me adjusting it, my spool time was super sluggish with serious turbo lag, and the puck was open quit a bit when i took the arm off the puck lever.
I noticed the puck was not closed how it was currently hooked up before I took the arm off to adjust.
I removed the arm, closed the puck by hand, then tightened the rod to match the puck closed.
A snug fit when puck is closed now, though i did NOT have to pull the actuator to get it to go back on the puck swing arm.
Took it for a test drive, boost went to about 17#-18#.
I didn't have to press the peddle down very much for it to spool up.
At normal throttle I could here the turbo spool sound, is that normal?

So I just want to clarify, The puck should be closed when the engine is off, with the arm adjustment like i mentioned?

 

[dynoman]

Closed with engine off, yes . I would shorten the rod so you have to pull it out about 1/8" to put it back on the post . This will make sure the puck stays closed with some tension on it in a non boosted situation.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

You need the puck completely closed or it will not build boost. When that puck opens your exhaust pressure is bypassing the turbo exhaust wheel.

 

[gm5150]

I put 1/8th tension on it as a member stated above. That made a very big improvement in boost spool up and boost lag.
So much better now!
Thank you all so much!

 

[dynoman]

Your welcome .

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Just a reminder, the tighter you have the rod (the more you have to pull on the rod to get it on the post) the higher your boost will be.
Make sure to keep an eye on your scan master so you don't experience any knock, watch your boost and fuel pressure gauges so you can see your fuel pressure rise 1:1 with boost pressure over your base fuel pressure (no boost).

 

[gm5150]

I do not have a scanmaster yet.
It is running at about 18# boost right now according to my VDO boost gauge.
I will get a scanmaster soon.

 

[Bescurred]

I do not have a scanmaster yet.
It is running at about 18# boost right now according to my VDO boost gauge.
I will get a scanmaster soon.

Keep the boost lower than 18 till ya get a scan master...I'd go down to about 15 personally unless you have better than 93 octane in the tank or alky

 

[VtheGNMan]

Just like the above post said, lower that boost till you can monitor knock. I'd be scared to do 18 lbs boost without a lot of tuning. No doubt you are having knock and it's retarding the timing. No knock monitoring will result in changing head gaskets real quick.

 

[TURBOELKY]

I remember when I was new to Buick's. Oh the learning curve. How fun.

Felpro HS9441PT
felpro MS96037

Without a scanmaster, those will be your part numbers. Also, change the head bolts while you're at it. Don't use head studs if you have an AC box still in the car, makes passenger side a real PIA.

Turn the boost down.

 

[gm5150]

You guys make owning these cars sound like it's a delicate piece of glass.
I appreciate all the feedback and comments, I really do.
If I lengthen the actuator rod anymore than where it's at now, then the puck will be opened and not shut.
I am at 17psi on boost now.
I do not hear any knocks, though I know you cannot always here them.
Do I go ahead and lengthen the rod more and let the puck be opened? Won't that damage the turbo in anyway?

 

[TURBOELKY]

They really are that delicate

 

[gm5150]

I can see right away that in need the following:
scanmaster 2.5 or 2.1
at least 80lbs injectors or should I get 120lbs?
better fuel pump, current one is already hot wired thank god.
TT chip to match injectors.
alky kit

would that cover me so I don't get knock and or help prevent blown heads etc.?

I do not want to race track this car. it will be street driven only.
I would like to be at 20 psi boost without any worries to a blown engine when I want to wot this baby!

 

[zapp240]

I would follow the old adage of K.I.S.S. keep it simple. invest in the scanmaster 2.1 pronto. do not worry about throwing injectors and pumps into it until you become familiar with what you have and getting it set up proper for now. if you take the actuator arm off the puck arm, you should be able to operate the puck arm freely. holding it firmly against the waste-gate hole, you should have to pull about 1/8'' on the rod to get it back on the lever. if you turn the rod counterclockwise, the tension will be less and the boost setpoint will decrease. if you had it at 1/8th", you should be able to turn it counterclockwise a few revolutions before you loose all the tension. you do not want the puck off the waste-gate hole at ignition off, you will not build boost or will very little. definitely use 93 octane gas also. once you can monitor whats going on, then start tuning, until then, you may want to use a little caution with the go fast peddle.

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Better to keep from blowing head gaskets then have to replace them. Scan master is a good starting point. I wouldn't start throwing parts at it but you must know what's going on inside the engine or things get costly quick with these cars. Listening for knock on one of these isn't going to work, by the time you hear it it's too late and often it's happening and you don't hear it. Until you get the scan master use your right foot to keep boost under 12 psi. Once you get the scan master you may find your car is in good shape or you could find you have some issues to resolve. The power logger is a great tool also as it allows you to see and record what's going on. If I had to choose one I would buy the power logger. You can also share your power logger files with people and they can help you figure out issues you may have. You should be able to run 17-18 psi on a properly tuned engine but I wouldn't do it without being able to monitor knock.