turbo mounting harware recommendation needed

MG8T7GN

Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Not a for a TR, but a Saturn Sky 2.0l closing in on 30 pounds of boost. The turbo mounting bolts keep loosening and blowing out the gasket. The turbine housing has the holes and the manifold flange is threaded. I'm looking to use new bolts that are longer that extend past the manifold flange and then use lock nuts. What style AN or NAS bolts and nuts should I look for? Another kink is the threads in the manifold flange are metric.
 
You mean a jam nut to keep the bolt from backing out, I see.

I don't know the AN designation. If you have the space for the additional diameter, I would want a bolt with a flange. Stainless of course. Threaded length may be a problem - typical bolts may not have enough thread. Might be less trouble to cut and grind a set of stainless studs. If studs will allow assembly? And if you can find metric stainless threaded rod.

Metric stainless jam nuts are here:
http://www.allensfasteners.com/sear...&subcat=569&txtsearchParamCat=34&txtCatName=2

Very decent stainless lock washers here:
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Lock Washers 254 SMO Stainless Steel/00113831/
 
I was thinking of possibly a jet nut, if there is such a thing as a locking jet nut. The last time I looked for jet nuts, theyt were rated only to 450*F. I sould call PT&E tomorrow and see what they recommend since I need a turbo flange gasket anyways. Studs would not help. The is very little clearence beteween the scroll and the flange on the two bolts closest to the engine.
 
Remember, the hardware I have is metric. Anyways, tried drilling the bolt heads for safety wire, using a safety wire driling jig, and after breaking 8 drill bits, I gave up on that idea. Can't find a source for pre drilled stainless metric bolts. Next idea is to use 5/16-24 helicoils and buy pre-drilled stainless bolts. Can I convert 8mm threaded holes to 5/16" helicoils? Will there be enough material left after driling the holes to the correct size to install the helicoil? Can helicoils survive in that application?
 
Were you trying to drill a socket head cap screw, or a hex head? Should be able to drill socket heads, and then use a washer to get the same surface contact area as a hex head. With all your fab experience I know you know how to drill stainless: slow rpm, lots of pressure, good cutting oil. Don't try carbide drills unless you have a rigid mill, use cobalt or hss. The AN and NAS specs are only for SAE, not metric fasteners. I've never tried a jam nut behind a threaded plate like this but thinking about it I don't know if it will work or not. First, you tighten the bolt into the manifold, which stretches the portion of the bolt between head and the manifold threads and brings the head-side of the threads into friction contact with the manifold threads. Then you put on the rear jam nut and tighten it. That will actually pull the bolt threads and manifold threads apart, stretching the part of the bolt between head and manifold even more, and if you tighten the jam nut to the same torque and use lube everywhere for the same friction, at the same final torque the threads in the manifold would actually be centered between the faces and not in contact at all, so now the only friction contact is between the jam nut threads and the bolt threads which I don't see as any better than no jam nut. You would have to first torque the bolt into the manifold at some lower torque, then tighten the jam nut to a higher torque to allow the bolt threads to shift to the rear in the manifold threads so you get contact in both the manifold and the jam nut. You would have to experiment with a bolt stretch gauge to figure out the two torques to get the clamping force on the flange that you want.

I think you should talk to Remflex to see if they have a compressible graphite gasket that will fit your flange, it should be more blowout resistant. Second, if you are using hex head bolts can you use a lock plate (or whatever the official name is) instead of safety wire? A plate that goes under the bolt head like a washer that hits something to keep it from being able to spin, either a protrusion or make the plate long enough to span two bolt holes. Then you bend up tabs on the plate to make contact with the hex flats so the bolt can't spin.
 
Got 2 of the 4 bolt heads drilled for safety wire. On one of the remaining two, I used a longer bolt to go through bolt flanges and then used an all metal locknut. The last bolt is a real PITA. There is no room between the flange and scroll to fit a bolt. I had to re use what was there. It is a threaed stud that goes through the turbo flange and a nut is threaed until it bottoms out on the unthreaed part of the stud and then thre nut is used to turn the stud into the manifold flange, installing the turbo at the same time. Not a well thought out attaching method from whomever desigend the turbo. Equally so to the exhaust mnaifold maker for using not only what appears to be 400 series stainless, but using metric threads so to not allow standard AN drilled bolts.
 
Fly cut the mounting surfaces and use no gaskets. Just a small amount of high temp rtv.
 
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