TTA heads on GN block

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Jun 21, 2005
I am buying a rebuilt short block from a '86 Turbo T-type and I have read the posts showing the difference between the GN and TTA motors. Would there be any problems or power loss by bolting my TTA heads to the GN motor? Are there any other TTA specific parts I would need to carry over? I know I will be re-using my intake, ignition setup, TTA headers, etc.
 
I didn't even think about the compression. Does anyone have an idea of how much more I will have? What is the stock TTA compression ratio?
 
Final compression depends on many things. Are your heads stock and have they been shaved before? What thickness head gasket will you be using? Has the block been bored and if yes how much over? Are the pistons stock replacements or are the custom pistons? Are the valve stock style or have they been replaced. Reason I ask about the valves is that the stock valves are dished and some of the aftermarket valves are flat. All these things have an effect on final compression ratio. And yes if even if everything is at stock levels with the GN short block and TTA head your compression will be raised. Probably close to 9:1. Stock TTA compression is 8:1. Stock GN is 8.5:1.





Michael
 
Buy a pair of FWD heads and save the tta heads. Smells like your swapping out motors on the TTA? If the Buick motor is STD. bore and you want to retain stock TTA compression,then I may have 6 goodies for you:eek: ;)
 
TTA heads aren't worth anything ... :eek: seriouslly if your just swapping them use them .. you know there good :cool:
 
I thought about picking up a set of NOS TTA heads from a guy on Ebay but I figured I put the $300 towards the motor. The engine in my TTA is all stock and has never been gone through. I plan on having the heads freshened, installing a TE-44 turbo, 50lb inj, cold air intake, adj. waste gate, a power plate, and a few other odds and ends. I don't plan on racing the car a lot, just a few trips to the track every now and then. I am going to bag my TTA block for now and later down the road build it up and reinstall it in the car. I am also keeping all my stock parts in case I want to put them back on.
TT/Ameasap, PM with whatever you have and prices.
 
I would put a different came and 100lbs valvesprings in while you have it torn apart to give yourself some more top end.
 
Tta Replacement Heads

I thought about picking up a set of NOS TTA heads from a guy on Ebay but I figured I put the $300 towards the motor. The engine in my TTA is all stock and has never been gone through. I plan on having the heads freshened, installing a TE-44 turbo, 50lb inj, cold air intake, adj. waste gate, a power plate, and a few other odds and ends. I don't plan on racing the car a lot, just a few trips to the track every now and then. I am going to bag my TTA block for now and later down the road build it up and reinstall it in the car. I am also keeping all my stock parts in case I want to put them back on.
TT/Ameasap, PM with whatever you have and prices.


I have the heads on Ebay.Only one set left.I bought[6] sets from Steve Kaminski,a well known f-body converter.I decided to repaint my TTA & priorities have changed.
I would keep your original [#702] heads.They are extremely rare & use the replacement heads [#515] for your GN,if that's the route you wish to take.
 
I thought about picking up a set of NOS TTA heads from a guy on Ebay but I figured I put the $300 towards the motor.

ok after reading the rest of the thread these NOS heads are not original TTA ones ... :cool:
 
I am not turning my car in to an all out racer. With over 200K on the motor the heads need to be gone through anyway. 100lb valve springs are on my list as well as new valves and all other new parts associated with freshening a set of heads. I do not plan on having them ported, maybe gasket matched but thats it. My budget does not allow for much more than that. You are right David, it would be better to buy a set of TTA replacement heads but my old ones would still need to be gone through if they were to be used again on a new motor. I am not worried about the rarity or collector value of the car. I bought it with the intention of one day building up the motor and making it a little faster. Funny thing is, the car is 99% bone stock and with 200K miles it still amazes people to see so many stock parts still on it. It seems my question has been answered and I will see about running a slightly thicker head gasket and if needed cough up the $ for a Razor alky kit. Thank you guys for all your info.
 
Tta Heads

I am not turning my car in to an all out racer. With over 200K on the motor the heads need to be gone through anyway. 100lb valve springs are on my list as well as new valves and all other new parts associated with freshening a set of heads. I do not plan on having them ported, maybe gasket matched but thats it. My budget does not allow for much more than that. You are right David, it would be better to buy a set of TTA replacement heads but my old ones would still need to be gone through if they were to be used again on a new motor. I am not worried about the rarity or collector value of the car. I bought it with the intention of one day building up the motor and making it a little faster. Funny thing is, the car is 99% bone stock and with 200K miles it still amazes people to see so many stock parts still on it. It seems my question has been answered and I will see about running a slightly thicker head gasket and if needed cough up the $ for a Razor alky kit. Thank you guys for all your info.

You may not be too concerned about the collectability of your car now,but,as you see the prices of these cars rise,you may change your mind.As I understand,there are only 1000 or so left.Keep all your original parts with the car.You may find yourself wondering why you parted with some parts in the future.
Razor's kit is a sound investment,but,you should call him @ the phone # listed on his web site.He will shed some light on the other modifications necessary to correctly install a kit and the other parts you will need to make the car faster.The kit is only part of the puzzle.The mods aren't cheap.
 
you can run a Alky kit on a stock car ... what big $$$$ mod's are you talking about ?? :confused: Car obviously has to be running good with no problems before ya go adding any performance stuff .. I have installed Alky on a lot of stock cars ... :cool: ohhhh forgot to add ...be careful with the set up you are thing about with the higher compression ... I didn't care for it like you are trying to do .. I did have great luck running a TTA shortblock with Buick heads in Melissa's old Limited T years ago .
 
Mods

you can run a Alky kit on a stock car ... what big $$$$ mod's are you talking about ?? :confused: Car obviously has to be running good with no problems before ya go adding any performance stuff .. I have installed Alky on a lot of stock cars ... :cool: ohhhh forgot to add ...be careful with the set up you are thing about with the higher compression ... I didn't care for it like you are trying to do .. I did have great luck running a TTA shortblock with Buick heads in Melissa's old Limited T years ago .


Kit wasn't needed on my stock TTA.[no det].You'll need a scanmaster & boost controller.
Adding mods like 50# injectors,larger fuel pump,fuel pressure regulator,70mm tb,intake plenum,power plate,MSD DIS_4 high output ignition,thdp 3",P61 turbo,
27#boost,all add up to detonation.Razors kit eliminated any detonation I had.
Yes,all these do add up to some serious cash.
I did not see the need for an alky kit on a stock motor.All the kit does is help eliminate detonation by cooling the intake charge.@ stock 16# there wasn't much of a problem.Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Not correcting you, but my car had all sorts of knock problems on pumpgas. Used to get 6-7 on 15 PSI...If I could start over with a bone stock car here is my mod list...

Scanmaster-boost gauges $300
AFPR $100
60's-Walbro 340 with hotwire $500
Turbotweak chip $85
Alky $460
some kind of K&N $100
valvesprings $100

That will yield you low 12's on a mild tune...All for under $2k. You can throw in additional mods i.e. tires, duttneck, whatever you want and be way under what most cars cost...

Jason

Edit:Of course good spring cleaning and 160 thermostat...
 
Not correcting you, but my car had all sorts of knock problems on pumpgas. Used to get 6-7 on 15 PSI...If I could start over with a bone stock car here is my mod list...

Scanmaster-boost gauges $300
AFPR $100
60's-Walbro 340 with hotwire $500
Turbotweak chip $85
Alky $460
some kind of K&N $100
valvesprings $100

That will yield you low 12's on a mild tune...All for under $2k. You can throw in additional mods i.e. tires, duttneck, whatever you want and be way under what most cars cost...

Jason

Edit:Of course good spring cleaning and 160 thermostat...


I could run easy 11s on that set up :biggrin: an when ya think of it thats just replacing 20 year old stuff ... as far as "70mm tb,intake plenum,power plate,MSD DIS_4 high output ignition,thdp 3",P61 turbo"??? stock ignition systems run in the 9s :confused: How fast are you running with that combo ?? :confused:
 
Factory HG is .041. Cometic makes an .062 gasket. That will drop compression.

I cant speak.. I have all the bling bling go fast goodies :D
 
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