Yeah 150 is pretty much pegged at the limit of what the computer can compensate for. Whats your idle fuel pressure with the vacuum line pulled off the regulator? get a long 1/2" fuel line and use it as a stethoscope and listen at the bottom of every fuel injector. Listen for a sucking sound. Could be cracked injector o-rings. Also replace your PCV valve and check your EGR valve and EGR solenoid. I posted in another thread this week about all the things to check for and how to test them. Do a search with my handle in the user search box. With the engine off, pull the hose off teh EGR valve. Reach underneath and pull up on the EGR diaphragm. Plug the vacuum barb on the EGR valve with your finger and let go of the diaphragm. If the diaphragm creeps back down, you have a pinhole or a crack in it. Replace it. With the engine running, pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve and feel to see if it's sucking. It shouldnt be sucking. If it is, pull the filter cap off the EGR solenoid, pop the filter out and check to see if its clogged. Replace it. If you still have vacuum sucking through the hose, the solenoid is stuck. Replace it. When you pull off the EGR valve, look to see if the ports in the valve itself, and the ports in the intake manifold for the EGR are clogged with carbon. Get a drill bit and clean the ports out by hand while holding a vacuum cleaner to it. Replace all the hoses you can and use hose clamps wherever possible. Post your mods. Any time you check your BLM's, you need to wait till the motor is completely warmed up, and the computer has dropped into closed loop (meaning its a closed system and all the sensors are being read and used to adjust the tune.) Open loop means the computer is running the engine based on some pre defined parameters and the sensors arent being used. The scanmaster will show what mode you're in by the blinking light on the right. When it stops blinking, you're in closed loop. Even if the engine is warmed up, if you shut the engine off and re-start, it will be in open loop for a few minutes, and reading the BLM's will be pointless. After doing all this, disconnect the orange power wire to the computer (theres a connector over by the battery) for half an hour to clear all the crappy extreme adjustments the computer has made to compensate for all the problems. Tuning will be a pain if you dont clear these parameters.
I adjusted my TPS to .42 from my ScanMaster & when I remove the floor mat and floor the car with the key in the start position (not running), the TPS does NOT move on the ScanMaster. It just stays at .42 (should it be set at .40)? Here are my other reading on the ScanMaster in Park at idle: 
