torque strap question

on the topic of torque straps, has anyone had this problem:

the torque strap gets hooked to an eyelet bolt used to secure the alternator to the bracket. i have broken this bolt 3 times now, snapping the eyelet part clean off of the rest of the bolt. is it possible i'm torque my strap too tight?? or is this a sign of a shredded motor mount?
 
I had this problem but resolved it by going by an industrial warehouse and purchasing an industrial gauge galvanized eyelet bolt to mount by alternator. Have had that one on the car for about 3 yrs with no problem. Cost something like $3.00




Originally posted by twizz
on the topic of torque straps, has anyone had this problem:

the torque strap gets hooked to an eyelet bolt used to secure the alternator to the bracket. i have broken this bolt 3 times now, snapping the eyelet part clean off of the rest of the bolt. is it possible i'm torque my strap too tight?? or is this a sign of a shredded motor mount?
 
that sounds good. the regular ones are like $2 at sears hardware. maybe i'll just keep snapping them. just put a new one in before i blew the driveshaft/trans. new trans in now, lets see if i can break it again.
 
Solution

Maybe you should just put a HRpartsNstuff poly mount in and through the strap away.. That is what I did.. Have a good day.. Dave
 
HRpartsNstuff

Neil:

Follow re-evaluating's suggestion. The poly mount is the way to go. Probably snapping the bolt saved your alternator a few times. I used to snap them and went to the galvanized (stronger) one too.

I've broken a few alternators because of the strap pulling down on that corner. Do yourself a favor, get the poly mount(s) and ditch the strap, your alternator will thank you.

-Bobby
 
A forged McMaster Carr eyebolt will find the next "weakest link".

A HRParts Poly Mount is a very nice way to go also and what I eventually went with for both cars. :)
 
All you need is the D/S poly mount. The straps stretch and slip, get greasy and nasty looking, the eyebolts bend and break, and I have even read reports of the alternator ear getting busted off. Since the strap is well off the centerline of the engine, you may still need a good D/S motor mount and transmission mount to keep the rear of the engine from lifting and twisting.

Buzz White in Houston, TX (sumnerw@flash.net)
 
Just out of curiosity, do you guys running straps leave them on all the time, or just when racing? When I bought my car it was on there, so I have left it on.
 
The strap goes into a horizontal, oblong slot below and perhaps very slightly forward of the alternator ear.

I use a stainless steel eyebolt of the proper length and diameter. It won't bend like the soft steel eyebolts. Never a problem:

Thread a nut all the way onto the eyebolt, until it runs out of thread. Slip a flat washer on. Slip the eyebolt, nut and flat washer through the alternator eye. Follow up with another flat washer, a lock washer and a cap nut. Tighten. All the hardware, all of it, should be stainless steel.

The strap stays on all the time, not just for racing.

One possible reason for breaking the alternator is a hard launch with the strap loose. That will shock load the alternator. Check that your strap is snug, but not excessively tight, at all times. Buying a good strap, not a cheapie that will loosen up routinely, is a necessity. Also, a good niylon strap has just the right amount of "stretch" to keep your alternator healthy.

If you don't want to take this amount of precaution, then most certainly go get the motor mount.
 
Well I had a strap in for 3 years now and last week i took the engine out and found my driver side motor mount broken(rubber was in two pieces) I ordered the poly from Hrstuff and now .Question,are these mounts the same size?I heard they are taller and there might be down pipe problems or cross over header problems?Not sure!
 
speaking of torque straps........anyone had knock retard problems with one of these? I had one on mine and it seemed to cause false knock readings on my car . Maybe a bad poly mount on that side?
 
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