Making a couple changes and I have been pondering what to do about my "3000" stall 9/11. Terribly inefficient unlocked, but, it was a decent buy back in ~Y2K. Problem is that the new setup is very different and I think I might need a looser TC, so I'm looking for input from 6265BB users. BTW, this car 99.99% street, 0.01% strip... though I d have fun getting on freeways and such. 
With my old setup of basic bolt-ons (stock long block, T+/3"/Extender, PTE52 ported to a stock elbow with a 1.25" puck, CAS V2, 60#s, ATR 2.5" DP, R/T 3" cat, Cotton's dual 2-3/4"), when staging I could push right through that 3000, up to ~4000 at launch with ~5psi boost at the line, and then I would just spin. With Nitto DRs a typical 60' would be 2.0-2.4, peddling. Anything over 0# boost I wouldn't spin to some degree. It is not a drag oriented suspension. Best MPH was a tick over 115 off a 2.2 60'. Now, I don't go to the track much, but when I do I want to perform well-ish, though ET is not my real concern as long as I have MPH! That said, street drivability is of utmost importance. FWIW, last time on a dyno a couple months after that 115mph several years ago, I clocked ~480RWHP. Oh yeah, and I only run unleaded, usually a mix of 91/100 for a ~95 octane average.
New engine is a full main capped 109 with TRWs at stock compression, mild ported sock irons (~185 cfm intakes), small 206/210 roller, port matched intake., assembled at Duttweiler. More goodies as well, but they don't matter here. Other than that and the subject 6265BB billet wheel, a new RJC 3"+1.625" puck DP is here, and the 12 y.o. R/T cat is being replaced with a new "wide body" cat that flows much better than the old cat, and the cat will be on 100% of the time. I'll also note that I somewhat recently converted to a GEN2/3.5".
So as to converter types and stalls, what have you other 6265BB users experienced? A friend has a 2800 n/l PTC, but I'm thinking that might be a tad tight. My friend says just try the 9/11 and see, but dang I already know I can push right through that sucker, and the engine is going to be out tomorrow so a converter change is simple! As mentioned earlier, this car rarely sees a track and is really just a street driven car, so I'm thinking l/u is the direction I should go, but I have read about non-l/u converters being pretty darn efficient.
Thanks for input,
With my old setup of basic bolt-ons (stock long block, T+/3"/Extender, PTE52 ported to a stock elbow with a 1.25" puck, CAS V2, 60#s, ATR 2.5" DP, R/T 3" cat, Cotton's dual 2-3/4"), when staging I could push right through that 3000, up to ~4000 at launch with ~5psi boost at the line, and then I would just spin. With Nitto DRs a typical 60' would be 2.0-2.4, peddling. Anything over 0# boost I wouldn't spin to some degree. It is not a drag oriented suspension. Best MPH was a tick over 115 off a 2.2 60'. Now, I don't go to the track much, but when I do I want to perform well-ish, though ET is not my real concern as long as I have MPH! That said, street drivability is of utmost importance. FWIW, last time on a dyno a couple months after that 115mph several years ago, I clocked ~480RWHP. Oh yeah, and I only run unleaded, usually a mix of 91/100 for a ~95 octane average.
New engine is a full main capped 109 with TRWs at stock compression, mild ported sock irons (~185 cfm intakes), small 206/210 roller, port matched intake., assembled at Duttweiler. More goodies as well, but they don't matter here. Other than that and the subject 6265BB billet wheel, a new RJC 3"+1.625" puck DP is here, and the 12 y.o. R/T cat is being replaced with a new "wide body" cat that flows much better than the old cat, and the cat will be on 100% of the time. I'll also note that I somewhat recently converted to a GEN2/3.5".
So as to converter types and stalls, what have you other 6265BB users experienced? A friend has a 2800 n/l PTC, but I'm thinking that might be a tad tight. My friend says just try the 9/11 and see, but dang I already know I can push right through that sucker, and the engine is going to be out tomorrow so a converter change is simple! As mentioned earlier, this car rarely sees a track and is really just a street driven car, so I'm thinking l/u is the direction I should go, but I have read about non-l/u converters being pretty darn efficient.
Thanks for input,