to stroke or not to stroke
- Thread starter 86bluet
- Start date
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
The parts a somewhat more expensive, and the labor is also.
The rotating assembly must be mocked you with the cam in place to assure NO interference with the block or any other items. This can add from $200-400 in labor.
The rotating assembly must be mocked you with the cam in place to assure NO interference with the block or any other items. This can add from $200-400 in labor.
but is it worth the extra money? does it make a big diff over stock stroke, I putt a duttwieler TAmotor in 87 GN holy crap no boost and it was fast, already have to buy pistons, will get better rods and crank with kit do they come balanced already or do I have to have that done myself,
psycho6cyl
Ponies Are For Lil Girls
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
if you have time to wait go w champion alum bc dealing w them takes patience. if i was redoing my motor again id do ta pert alum just because they are probably more readily accessible than champions. again thats buying new not used. rpe machine is doing my motor and he said stoker was the way to go. he said if you are building w a billet caps then the labor for a stroker isn't that bad but if you're doing a girdle then materials labor and time go up. i know each builder will have their own opinion on it. i would ask the builder what he would do and i would also go to a known tr guy.
Howling Mad
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2010
In hindsight on my build I wish I would have went with aluminum heads instead irons but I would build a 4.1 before I stroked a 3.8. Thats just my opinion though.
If your rebuilding the engine and you choose to go with any steel crank it, the cost of the kit is the same, few more dollars to make it work so why not?? On the Full throttle site the cost is Identical between stock stroke and stroker kit so for the same parts cost it makes sense to me.... If your gonna do it then just do it
RICHIE HIGH PSI
Active Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
NOT WORTH IT!!! You can go just as fast, if not faster with a stock stroke.
LEGACY_GN
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2007
I went with a long rod stroker kit as I needed to upgrade to forged rotating anyway after splitting my stock piston and the only other change was larger roller cam for the bigger cubes. Same turbo, injectors everything else and I can honestly say night and day difference. It's a beast now. Pulls really hard at low boost. it's nice not having to push the motor to go fast. Yes I considered aluminum heads too but I drive mine all the time and heard of reliability issues with them, where as the stroker makes your car more reliable by going all forged, and gives you more power. I called champion about the heads and they didn't recommend them for daily driving. Just my experience.
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Remember, the converter stall doesnt have to be as high on the stroker. This will allow you to run slightly bigger turbo with same stall. Swap to billet turbo with stroker and it gets better.
I spool my turbo instantly when rolling and it takes 1.5 seconds from dead stop to reach boost. While on the line(racing), it takes 2.8 seconds to hit 15psi.
I spool my turbo instantly when rolling and it takes 1.5 seconds from dead stop to reach boost. While on the line(racing), it takes 2.8 seconds to hit 15psi.
Richie has no idea what he's talking about. He's only running 8's.
Yeah he has no dog in this fight, back in your hole Richie
. This convo is for us common folksNever heard that before. Only thing I can think of is they are less tolerant to overheating being aluminum otherwise I don't see any negatives. But then I can't imagine driving my GN as a DD though.
LEGACY_GN
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2007
Which ones do you have? I really would like to have a set.
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Stroker with 6768hpq on a 3200 stall
