I'm installing an Edelbrock 204 - 214 cam and the instructions say to use the Edelbrock timing set #7829 because "late model timing sets are machined in a retarded position". I'm curious if those who have used a degree wheel to set up a cam have noticed anything and if it is associated with stock replacement or other double roller timing sets? I have a progear set that I am going to reuse, but was not planning on using a degree wheel.
Timing Chain Accuracy
- Thread starter bkoons
- Start date
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
I am also running the 204/214 and a 3 keyway timing set. I was told by many that you should just run it straight up (not +/-) because for an 11-12 second car it won't really make that much of a difference.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
I asked the same thing and never got a definitive answer, nor did I have access to a degree kit. Let me know if you find anything out, and post back. :biggrin:
Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
I have always set them straight up. The only reason I used a degree wheel on the last cam is because I was taking lots of pics for a build journal and it looks like some sophisticated technical procedure. I found the cam, and or timing set, or the accumulation of tolerances of both parts to be off 2*. Since I had the timing set that enables adjustment + or - , I advanced it 2* to be set right on the 112* (I think that is what is was) on the intake centerline.
There are some "Internet Experts" out there (especially on the "s" board) that claim it must be done to ensure "everything is right" or to make the engine "run right", but ask them, what is the difference if it is off a few degrees, and after they spend hours searching their pile of hot rod magazines, they will only come back with some plagiarized tech jargon about cylinder pressures and valve timing but NO ANSWER to the direct question of: What difference does it make?
It does not make the engine run wrong. It just moves the peak power up or down by something like 25 RPM's per degree - do not recall the exact number, maybe it is 50 RPM's/degree, but unless the cam is way off or is some super tuned full race only set-up, I do not believe it will even be noticeable.
Also note that if one is actually concerned that the cam is ground wrong then why are they checking only one lobe?
There are some "Internet Experts" out there (especially on the "s" board) that claim it must be done to ensure "everything is right" or to make the engine "run right", but ask them, what is the difference if it is off a few degrees, and after they spend hours searching their pile of hot rod magazines, they will only come back with some plagiarized tech jargon about cylinder pressures and valve timing but NO ANSWER to the direct question of: What difference does it make?
It does not make the engine run wrong. It just moves the peak power up or down by something like 25 RPM's per degree - do not recall the exact number, maybe it is 50 RPM's/degree, but unless the cam is way off or is some super tuned full race only set-up, I do not believe it will even be noticeable.
Also note that if one is actually concerned that the cam is ground wrong then why are they checking only one lobe?
Comp Cam & Degree Wheel
I recently installed a comp 220/218 cam, I think those were the specs and I used the centerline method along with the degree wheel to bring it within specs of the card. I found the cam was 4 degrees advanced so I had to use retard the cam using one of the crank keyways.
As mentiond previously everything I have read indicates advancing or retarding the cam simply moves the power band up or down a specific number of RPM's. So depending on your applications intended purpose you may find it ok to run the timing set straight up and down.
I recently installed a comp 220/218 cam, I think those were the specs and I used the centerline method along with the degree wheel to bring it within specs of the card. I found the cam was 4 degrees advanced so I had to use retard the cam using one of the crank keyways.
As mentiond previously everything I have read indicates advancing or retarding the cam simply moves the power band up or down a specific number of RPM's. So depending on your applications intended purpose you may find it ok to run the timing set straight up and down.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
Good info guys! Thank you! bkoons~ I think you will be pleased with that cam. I have it in the Buick, I put it in my old 69 Chevy truck 305, and even in a 90 Ford truck. Very happy with it in all of them. 
Rosewood T-Type
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2006
comp told me they build 4d advance into all their cams so if your looking for stock youll have to retard it w/ keyways on crank gear. i installed mine straight up w/ no adverse affects. my car runs 9.90's at 138.
Well I went out and got a degree wheel and it turns out that the cam is 4 deg retarded with the chain straight up. The whole point of the post was that my cam card stated that many late model timing chains are machined with retarded timing and was wondering if anyone had noticed this. From my experience I cannot discredit this. Although it could just be the way the tollerance of my hardware stacked up. I know all it does is move the torque curve down in the rpm band (or up for advanced timing) and it may not be worth anything. But it doesn't take much effort to do if you have access to the equipment.
The other thing that having the cam advance or retarded does is to change the piston-to-valve clearance. Again, unless you are running on the hairy edge, a few degrees is not likely to have any noticeable effect, but if you have big valves, and a high lift cam, it might cause a problem. But that would be if you didn't check the piston-to-valve clearance, as well as the cam timing.
