Time for a new downpipe or keep messing with the GN1 external?

Tom Tom Turbo

Turbo Goes Woo Woo
Joined
Jul 10, 2002
Need some opinions on whether or not you guys think I should just cut bait and look for a new downpipe or keep messing with this GN1 external setup I have now.

I've not been able to control the boost at all with the GN1 pipe. The first time I had issues, he told me to check the actuator with a compressor to make sure it was opening/closing. It did make a distinct clicking sound each time I hit it with 15 psi, but the boost gauge would jump to 35 psi when the pipe was on the car. He thought there could be some weld slag in the discharge pipe, so it cost me $65 to send it back to him. He cut the discharge pipe, cleaned it out, and replaced the wastegate spring. Still no control. Another phone call and I was told I needed his boost controller to make it work. $100 later and guess what....no control again. At half throttle this thing spikes to 35 psi and blows the front cover and oil pan gaskets out (luckily that's all that got destroyed because Razor's alky kit was working flawlessly)

Is the RJC internal gate pipe maybe my soloution? I had a Terry Houston pipe before, that I'm really regretting selling. What are the thoughts here?
 
I have seen the RJC pipe in person and it is a work of art, no doubt! I had a THDP on my car and loved it, and I think the RJC is a step above. The welds, the bends, etc, FLAWLESS. My next car will have an RJC on it.
 
I have seen the RJC pipe in person and it is a work of art, no doubt! I had a THDP on my car and loved it, and I think the RJC is a step above. The welds, the bends, etc, FLAWLESS. My next car will have an RJC on it.
+1. Awesome quality on the RJC downpipe.
 
Send it back one last time...Get a refund.

Yeah I doubt that will happen....I've had it over a year. Plus I get the same story every time "my stuff is on plenty of fast cars and you're the only one who has a problem". Which is far from true.


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Yeah I doubt that will happen....I've had it over a year. Plus I get the same story every time "my stuff is on plenty of fast cars and you're the only one who has a problem". Which is far from true.


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ive got almost exact build as yours,i had no problem controlling a small turbo.but now i cant control it,ive been advised to open the hole on the pipe and open the hole on the turbo.im planning on doing this in the next week,ill let you know how it goes.
 
I sold and used the THDS's from the beginning and they were a great piece.

The RJC pipe has 20 years of improvement over the THDP in design, construction and fitment.

I have a RJC pipe here that you are welcome to try - if it does not work for you send it back, if it does what you need, then pay me for it! :)
 
I sold and used the THDS's from the beginning and they were a great piece.

The RJC pipe has 20 years of improvement over the THDP in design, construction and fitment.

I have a RJC pipe here that you are welcome to try - if it does not work for you send it back, if it does what you need, then pay me for it! :)

Nick, thanks for the info and offer. Is the RJC pipe you have a 3" variety? I'm leaving on vacation tomorrow, but I'll call you later this week and see what we can do. I'll need an HD actuator for the internal setup also, if you sell those.

Depending on what I find when I take the oil pan off, you might sell me a motor instead of a downpipe....


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how big is the discharge hole in the turbo compared to the pipe feeding the gate? If the turbo has not been ported it will be tough to control and changing the downpipe may not help at all
 
If the discharge pipe was verified to be fully open where it rejoins the main downpipe then the problem is in the turbo hole needing to be ported. I have run the same pipe and had to open mine up. Key is to lay it back inside the turbo. Try to visualize getting the exhaust to make that right turn into the discharge pipe. Lots of grinding but will help. My GN has consistant boost after doing that.
 
Thanks guys, the first thing I did was open up the WG hole per the instructions from Archie. Are you suggesting I just keep grinding that turbo until it finally works? I'm not nuts about trashing a $1300 turbo to make this thing work. The bottom line is, I went with the GN1 for the promised adjustability, elimination of creep, etc and I'm getting nothing but oil leaks and 35 PSI.


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I just ported my turbo and DP
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downpipes don't cause oil leaks, what size is the wastegate hole in the turbo? did you radius the inside? the hole looks big enough but need a measurment, what are you using for a boost control? have you run a line directly from the turbo to the bottom port of the gate (closest to the header) with no boost controller? How much boost then?
 
Mike, I see your point but a downpipe/wastegate that isn't functioning properly and fills my motor with 35 PSI can very easily cause all kinds of gaskets to push out. I believe the instructions said to open to 1 7/8"

I've run it turbo to lower port with no controller, I still get 30+ PSI.


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Only if you have leaky rings, the crankcase should not see any pressure to speak of, how id the gate connected? I see that done wrong very often and the boost is at 35, I am only trying to help here
 
Mike, I've done a compression test and everything was between 138 and 148 on a cold engine. The attached photos show how the controller is plumbed.

From the nipple of the turbo to a T. Then it goes into the controller and into the side of the WG, the other part of the T goes to the top port on WG. I've tried it both ways and gotten no difference.

ImageUploadedByTurboBuick1405457250.058028.jpg

ImageUploadedByTurboBuick1405457271.856854.jpg



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So adjusting the boost controller does NOTHING? Looks like you have it hooked up correctly. Have you verified the hole is opened up where the discharge pipe rejoins the downpipe? Easy to just put a mirror and flashlight down there to verify.
 
I haven't personally verified it, but Archie said he cut the discharge pipe and cleaned out some slag, then welded it back together.


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