Thinking of replacing front dash speakers...

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8UWITH6 said:
Dont get me wrong, I use a lot of zip ties on my Buicks, but I dont know if I like them on the dash speakers. I guess if it works it works? They dont move around or rattle on the cover?
Click to expand...

i hope they don't rattle tie them tight but you never know if that happens ill go back in and attack them:D
 
dash speakers

ok this is my area of expertise soi i thought i would say something usegul for you guys. Bass blockers are the best thing to go with becasuse they are cheap and will do the job. your best bet would be to pull the grill and speakers out an measure depth, and width. most speakers come with multiple hole so fit alot of applications ( the guy with zips cracks me up ) if you wnat it as close to factory but better sound then spend alitttle more. trust me it'll pay off later. there are alot of depths and variables so just relax and take your time. the plastic is brittle and you don't want to do it half ass. Now back to the buy with zip tie. Not trying to offend but just offer advise, hardware stores have mtal brackets that you can cut to your specs. you can use locking washers and can even bend it to your specs. the metal on the speakers are flexiable. make sure you measure both areas when you have the speakers out, each aren't the same. I've seen all kinds of rigged up stuf and hey to each his own. but seriously if you want to do it in a good mechanical way i would suggest doing it with a bracket. if the plastic area where it screws down is broken or cracked. use a nice sheet metal or a good self tapping screw. Just my opinion and it may help some it may not help any. I've done car audio since 86 and i've seen it all. trust me i've seen some straight up southern engenieering.
 
Altering

datant69 said:
ok this is my area of expertise soi i thought i would say something usegul for you guys. Bass blockers are the best thing to go with becasuse they are cheap and will do the job. your best bet would be to pull the grill and speakers out an measure depth, and width. most speakers come with multiple hole so fit alot of applications ( the guy with zips cracks me up ) if you wnat it as close to factory but better sound then spend alitttle more. trust me it'll pay off later. there are alot of depths and variables so just relax and take your time. the plastic is brittle and you don't want to do it half ass. Now back to the buy with zip tie. Not trying to offend but just offer advise, hardware stores have mtal brackets that you can cut to your specs. you can use locking washers and can even bend it to your specs. the metal on the speakers are flexiable. make sure you measure both areas when you have the speakers out, each aren't the same. I've seen all kinds of rigged up stuf and hey to each his own. but seriously if you want to do it in a good mechanical way i would suggest doing it with a bracket. if the plastic area where it screws down is broken or cracked. use a nice sheet metal or a good self tapping screw. Just my opinion and it may help some it may not help any. I've done car audio since 86 and i've seen it all. trust me i've seen some straight up southern engenieering.
Click to expand...


zips are funny but it was quick and easy keeped them in place. I really didn't want to start making brackets or extra holes.I really wanted to put it back on like the stock ones where but the speaker sat to high not letting my dash plate lay flat but thanks for the input..
 
Based on this thread, I'm hesitating between the
Boston acoustics S35 or the Polk Audio db351
Price is more or less the same.... not sure which one is the best....

Also, I want to buy a bass blocker and I did a search on ebay, there is a zillion of models from 2$ to 10$... what should I look for to select the good model ??
 
Bass blockers probably vary as to rolloff either -6db, or -12db for a fancier model crossover/blocker.

Power rating will determine the price as well, if it's just a head unit and no large amp. running them you can get a lower power rated model.

I just figured out the impedance and frequency I had and wanted, and used an online calculator, and bought my own non-polarized capacitors which is what a simple -6db bass blocker is. Goes in line (series) with the + terminal usually.
 
bass blockers

in my experiance you can go with something in the middle, don't buy the 99 cent ones just use common sense. you get what you buy so if you buy a cheap one don't get mad when the speakers bottom out or crack when it tweeks. If you use them just take some extra speaker wire and pull the coating off with some strippers. You can use that to make sure your positive wire doesn't ground out if you slide them into the bare wire. Just a suggestion but i've done it and it helps. Bass blockers will save you the headache of RNR'ing them or warranty issues. Some companies have a strick policy of no ragged out speakers so if you buy them and they don't last a week then you need to change something. I'd start with a brand name speaker and use the blockers. Do it once and you won't have to worry about doing it again if it's done right. Just listen to your speakers if they are stressing or cracking when you crank them up then you need to consider another blocker or something that will work properly and not blow them.
 
salvageV6 said:
Bass blockers probably vary as to rolloff either -6db, or -12db for a fancier model crossover/blocker.

Power rating will determine the price as well, if it's just a head unit and no large amp. running them you can get a lower power rated model.

I just figured out the impedance and frequency I had and wanted, and used an online calculator, and bought my own non-polarized capacitors which is what a simple -6db bass blocker is. Goes in line (series) with the + terminal usually.
Click to expand...

Hey Salvage, you could just do like I did and get a stereo that lets you adjust the slope and cut-off. :tongue: Sorry, couldn't resist... :wink:

Note to xpatate above, I love my Polk db351's. Maybe if the weather ever shapes up around here, I can get the GN out and enjoy them. :eek:
 
Is it possible to run upgraded dash speakers with concert sound? I know there is a difference in ohm with new speakers and am wondering if that will blow the radio. If anyone has done it successfuly, please post. Thanks.
 
I agree w datant69. first set was pioneer (best value), second was infinity reference, now currently using polk db speakers. You will NEED bass blockers. I dont remember the cutoff points. It was alot of personal trial and error, and doing some research. Use your ears to find that sweet spot for the type of music you play. ROCK ON!
 
asrnj77 said:
You need a bass blocker on the line going to the 3.5 dash speakers. You can get them pretty cheap and then you don't have to turn down your bass you just block the small speakers that can't handle it from distorting
Click to expand...

Which frequency bass blocker are you running on the dash speakers?
 
how do dash speakers and 6x9s sound? Does it sound full/ complete or do you feel like there needs to be speakers in the doors? I'm thinking of doing polk db all around. I don't have concert sound. I'd run them off an amp.
 
3.5's and 6X9's sound

depends on what's powering them and brand. of course the better the brand more then likely the better the sound. polks, and other such brands are going to be costly but will also provide good quality sound. also the sound will depend on what music you like and how much you crank it up. use bass blockers and you can even buy component speakers so you'll get better sound and it'll be more precise. 4-10's are ok speakers but don't really carry a sound real well if you like to really hear your music. some may not agree but as i stated it depends on your taste in music. another thing you may do if you don't want to surface mount your tweets i've used A/C vents and some double sided tape to mount speakers where you really can't see them and it still looks stock if you go with component or want more tweet. you won't need an amp if you have a high end cd player or even an average because most factory stereo's only put out 12-20 watts a channel and when you put in a aftermarket cd player you go from 12-20 to 50 per speaker. this differance could be the differance between blowing speakers and them sounding good. just my 02 cents and as i stated there are way to many brands to say one is better then the other. it's really a matter of opinions. most car audio places will push what they make a higher margin on. So if you have several in your area check them out and i'm sure you'll see what they prefer, most will push high end but also carry most speakers in all price ranges for all. So you don't have to go with a 150 set of 6/9's but you don't want to put in flea market pyramid crap in there.
 
Nope they fit perfect even come with SS hardware,wiringand even a bit for the screws!!!

I used a 100muF cap on mine
 
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