turbowannabe
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2001
Hey guys, I'm thinking about selling my 87 GN because of being in school and needing to sort out my priorities. I bought this car last March from a guy in Florida. I have done A LOT of work to the car ever since I've had it. Pretty much the whole drivetrain has been rebuilt with the exception of the rear end.
MODS:
Racetronix Full hot-wire fuel pump kit with Walboro 340 pump in tank
Jay Jackson 62mm ported Throttle body
50lb injectors with 2 chips, one 93octane street the other is an alky chip
DIY alcohol injection kit, has a shureflow pump with variable speed settings and a hobbs pressure switch to set the psi at which the alky will turn on
Postons 3" downpipe
Accufab billet fuel pressure regulator
BGC 23 row stretch IC
Ramchargers duel electric fan setup
GTA 16" rims painted black
Aluminum drums
fiberglass bumper fillers
scanmaster V2.1
2-5/8" oil pressure and boost pressure gauges on the a-pillar
high volume oil pump
MAINTENANCE:
New front brakes and turned rotors, Brake pads are Carquest ceramic Golds (the best you can buy).
New rear brake shoes, shoes are the best ones you can buy from NAPA, also rear drums are aluminum for light weight.
CAR WAS ALSO CONVERTED TO VACUUM BRAKES
Spark plugs, spark wires(CR43ts I believe), water pump, timing chain and roller cam button, coolant hoses, and all vacuum lines were replaced when I did the motor in late june/early july
Within the last couple of months I've replaced the fuel filter, 160 degree thermostat and coolant, and turbo hose clamps(replaced with constant torque hose clamps which cost me about $70 for the set).
TRANSMISSION:
Correct GN code BR that has been rebuilt at just a little over 100k, the car now has a little over 105K. The tranny was completely rebuilt with all new gears, clutches, and pump also a Trans-Go shift kit installed. No billet hard parts were installed.
ENGINE:
The engine was installed and running at around 105k. The engine in the car is not the GN's original factory motor. I bought it off of a member of TB.com, It has the turbo correct 109 block and 8445 heads. I inspected the motor 2 times before purchasing it. The first time I just went there, looked at it and checked out the block and head numbers which were correct. The next time I went and pulled the oil pan and looked for metal shavings and anything that looked abnormal. Everything looked all right, I knew that the motor had been freshened up because the rods were stamped and it had fresh gaskets on it.
I ended up buying the motor and taking off all the main and rod caps for inspection. Upon taking the caps off everything looked good until I got to the #6 rod. Apparently the crank had a factory defect. When the factory was drilling the crank throws for balancing they drilled just a bit too far in and just barely hit the rolled fillet of that journal. I'm guessing that's why whoever rebuilt the motor before ended up not using it. But oddly enough the motor seemed to be completely freshened up. There were fresh head bolts and intake gaskets, fresh bearings and honed cylinders. The motor looked to be a complete stock rebuild, since even the rear main seal was the factory rope style seal, it had stock pistons rods, injectors and everything with it.
I got my original crank turned 20 on the rods and 10 on the mains, installed the correct new bearings, checked the clearances, put federal mogul assembly lubricant, installed the High volume pump and replaced the timing chain and gear with mine even though there was all steel gears already installed. I Put the motor in, primed it up and got it running. Ever since then the car has been my daily driver and have had no problems. Oil pressure never goes below 21psi. It just needs tuning and the thing will be set.
EXTERIOR:
The car is in need of paint if your really picky, but I still get compliments on how nice the car looks( could be because its a GN). It does not have the factory paint, it had been painted at some time during its life. The clear coat is peeling on some spots on the roof and trunk. Even worse is the drivers rear quarter, the previous owner said there was a spot bubbling and he chipped away at the paint to make sure it wasn't bondo'd or rusting out underneath. Well, evidentially he went right at it because he chipped away a decent size portion and sprayed black primer over it.
There is rust on the bottoms of the doors from water getting stuck down there, but it can be repaired, it's not rusted through. There are a couple of other small spots where surface rust is starting but nothing to worry about.
The front grill will need to be replaced as I hit a bird one day and it broke a couple of fins.
The body is dent free. This is a Florida car(I picked it up in Florida) and the underbody is in great shape.
INTERIOR:
The interior is in good shape but could use steam cleaned. The drivers seat has a couple of rips down the back but both front seats have GN seat covers on them to prevent further damage. The dash is covered by a turbo 6 grand national dash mat and has some cracks underneath. Other than that it is in good condition. There is no radio or CD player as someone used a coathanger to break in and steel my CD player and CD's. No other damage was done when they stole it.
Headliner is like new, must have been replaced at some point in time.
I have the stock block, heads, rims and center caps which will be included. I have a used ATR 2.5" duel exhaust that I just bought two weeks ago for $475 and will go with the car at extra cost. Other than that the car is just running out the 3" downpipe and will need an exhaust.
I know this is a really long, but I wanted to get as much info as possible so you would know what you were dealing with. Let me know if your interested and want PICS and I will get them out to you ASAP
I'm asking 8K with the exhaust 7.5K without. I paid $7700 for this car last march before any of the work I did to it(Motor, Trans, Turbo, and maintenance).
thanks
Dan
MODS:
Racetronix Full hot-wire fuel pump kit with Walboro 340 pump in tank
Jay Jackson 62mm ported Throttle body
50lb injectors with 2 chips, one 93octane street the other is an alky chip
DIY alcohol injection kit, has a shureflow pump with variable speed settings and a hobbs pressure switch to set the psi at which the alky will turn on
Postons 3" downpipe
Accufab billet fuel pressure regulator
BGC 23 row stretch IC
Ramchargers duel electric fan setup
GTA 16" rims painted black
Aluminum drums
fiberglass bumper fillers
scanmaster V2.1
2-5/8" oil pressure and boost pressure gauges on the a-pillar
high volume oil pump
MAINTENANCE:
New front brakes and turned rotors, Brake pads are Carquest ceramic Golds (the best you can buy).
New rear brake shoes, shoes are the best ones you can buy from NAPA, also rear drums are aluminum for light weight.
CAR WAS ALSO CONVERTED TO VACUUM BRAKES
Spark plugs, spark wires(CR43ts I believe), water pump, timing chain and roller cam button, coolant hoses, and all vacuum lines were replaced when I did the motor in late june/early july
Within the last couple of months I've replaced the fuel filter, 160 degree thermostat and coolant, and turbo hose clamps(replaced with constant torque hose clamps which cost me about $70 for the set).
TRANSMISSION:
Correct GN code BR that has been rebuilt at just a little over 100k, the car now has a little over 105K. The tranny was completely rebuilt with all new gears, clutches, and pump also a Trans-Go shift kit installed. No billet hard parts were installed.
ENGINE:
The engine was installed and running at around 105k. The engine in the car is not the GN's original factory motor. I bought it off of a member of TB.com, It has the turbo correct 109 block and 8445 heads. I inspected the motor 2 times before purchasing it. The first time I just went there, looked at it and checked out the block and head numbers which were correct. The next time I went and pulled the oil pan and looked for metal shavings and anything that looked abnormal. Everything looked all right, I knew that the motor had been freshened up because the rods were stamped and it had fresh gaskets on it.
I ended up buying the motor and taking off all the main and rod caps for inspection. Upon taking the caps off everything looked good until I got to the #6 rod. Apparently the crank had a factory defect. When the factory was drilling the crank throws for balancing they drilled just a bit too far in and just barely hit the rolled fillet of that journal. I'm guessing that's why whoever rebuilt the motor before ended up not using it. But oddly enough the motor seemed to be completely freshened up. There were fresh head bolts and intake gaskets, fresh bearings and honed cylinders. The motor looked to be a complete stock rebuild, since even the rear main seal was the factory rope style seal, it had stock pistons rods, injectors and everything with it.
I got my original crank turned 20 on the rods and 10 on the mains, installed the correct new bearings, checked the clearances, put federal mogul assembly lubricant, installed the High volume pump and replaced the timing chain and gear with mine even though there was all steel gears already installed. I Put the motor in, primed it up and got it running. Ever since then the car has been my daily driver and have had no problems. Oil pressure never goes below 21psi. It just needs tuning and the thing will be set.
EXTERIOR:
The car is in need of paint if your really picky, but I still get compliments on how nice the car looks( could be because its a GN). It does not have the factory paint, it had been painted at some time during its life. The clear coat is peeling on some spots on the roof and trunk. Even worse is the drivers rear quarter, the previous owner said there was a spot bubbling and he chipped away at the paint to make sure it wasn't bondo'd or rusting out underneath. Well, evidentially he went right at it because he chipped away a decent size portion and sprayed black primer over it.
There is rust on the bottoms of the doors from water getting stuck down there, but it can be repaired, it's not rusted through. There are a couple of other small spots where surface rust is starting but nothing to worry about.
The front grill will need to be replaced as I hit a bird one day and it broke a couple of fins.
The body is dent free. This is a Florida car(I picked it up in Florida) and the underbody is in great shape.
INTERIOR:
The interior is in good shape but could use steam cleaned. The drivers seat has a couple of rips down the back but both front seats have GN seat covers on them to prevent further damage. The dash is covered by a turbo 6 grand national dash mat and has some cracks underneath. Other than that it is in good condition. There is no radio or CD player as someone used a coathanger to break in and steel my CD player and CD's. No other damage was done when they stole it.
Headliner is like new, must have been replaced at some point in time.
I have the stock block, heads, rims and center caps which will be included. I have a used ATR 2.5" duel exhaust that I just bought two weeks ago for $475 and will go with the car at extra cost. Other than that the car is just running out the 3" downpipe and will need an exhaust.
I know this is a really long, but I wanted to get as much info as possible so you would know what you were dealing with. Let me know if your interested and want PICS and I will get them out to you ASAP
I'm asking 8K with the exhaust 7.5K without. I paid $7700 for this car last march before any of the work I did to it(Motor, Trans, Turbo, and maintenance).
thanks
Dan
