T/R swap to an N/A Regal.

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May 24, 2006
Is there anything I need to know before I swap my 87' T/R drivetrain and elec. harness into an 85' non-turbo rolling chassis?

How hard is it to pull the dash off and harness from the 87'?

Will everything bolt right in?

Any tips will be great!
 
Its a fairly straight drop in. The forward light harness is the same and the turbo harness will hook up to it on the drivers side. On the pass side it will go inside on the bottom and hook up to the pcm and dash harness. If you can switch the dash it will make the switch easier. The dash can be removed after you drop the steering column. There are bolts at the heater duct to windsheild and by the kick panel. Take your time, maybe a couple of pics and the rest will be just making sure you dont leave something connected and pulled wires apart. Bag and tag your bolts. good luck..
 
Is there anything I need to know before I swap my 87' T/R drivetrain and elec. harness into an 85' non-turbo rolling chassis?

How hard is it to pull the dash off and harness from the 87'?

Will everything bolt right in?

Any tips will be great!
you might want to do a search...

I outlined dash removal for the last guy... I should have made it into a word doc.

Fuel pump/tank/motor/trans/rear/exhaust blah bah blah... :cool:

lemme find the dashe removal procedures...

Wait... here they are... just for you bud...
The above post is close.

Disconnect the battery first...

To remove the dash, first open the hood and take the center bolt out of the bulkhead connector on the drivers side (1/4")

Under the dash you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the inner part of the bulkhead connector to the firewall (2-7mm screws)

Lower the steering column, or remove it completely as this will facilitate removal of the dash. with the column out of the way you should beable to depress the lock to remove the speedo cable from the back of the dash.

Disconnect parking brake release cable from parking brake assembly.Unbolt the 3 10mm bolts under the dash. 1 each in the outer corners and 1 to the right side of the radio/heater control area.

Remove the radio, and unbolt the heater controls from the dash shell, allow the heater control to fall to where the radio was. When you pull the dash out, that will stay in the car. disconnect the wiring from the AC controls to the rest of the dash wiring.

Disconnect the 3 connectors under the right side of the dash.

Remove the top speaker grill (either 7mm or 1/4") cover then remove the 4 7mm screws that hold the top of the dash to the firewall.

At this point the dash *should* be loose. it may be easier to have a helper take the dash out of the car.

There may be more connectors I do not recall off hand, but thats pretty close. Good luck... a first timer may take 2 hours OR more to get out... Installation is reverse of removal.
 
You guys are great! That's what it's all about. I am going to start first thing in the morning. Thanks.
 
wiring issue

I think the AC electrical connectors are different. Mine didnt work--I had no power to the plug and didnt bother to fix the issue last year. If I get it straightened out Ill post details.
 
I think the AC electrical connectors are different. Mine didnt work--I had no power to the plug and didnt bother to fix the issue last year. If I get it straightened out Ill post details.

unless you went from the digital control to analog or vice-versa, it SHOULD be a bolt-in...
 
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