suspension setup

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kingots2004

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Joined
Nov 6, 2007
i need help.i put the 275/60 dragradial on in hopes of it helpin me hook up and its not working. im trying to get it to hook up for some unprepped track runs:) . car has kyb shocks,no front swaybar,full weight,umi lower arms,one bag in pass side at 4 lbs.i also changed the tranny to a th350 with brake. ive tried leavin on the brake and off, no boost up to 5lbs of boost.ive tried using pimp juice on the tires in a vht prepped lane and still nothing. if im running 40 and punch it there are still up in smoke. i didnt have this much trouble dialing in my old drag car but this factory 4 link setup is different but i know they work cause ive seen these cars carry the tires when setup properly so i need some help.
 
I wish I could help you out bud, maybe you could turn down the boost :eek: . What brand tires are they? If it was front suspension I could help you out better, sorry.
 
Get some good vids, [from the rear and side], and watch what the tires and chassis are doing...
I don't know as using KYB shocks on the ft is the way to get the car to pitch rotate and load the rear tires. I'd look at some adjustables...
 
ok does the car need to transfer weight back hard?i wasnt sure because i read so much on it lifting the rear of the car instead of squating.also how do the no hop bars work or do any of you run them? what kind of pinion angle do you guys run? im gonna get a good drag shock for it next. what about the front? anything special?
 
****

"ok does the car need to transfer weight back hard?i wasnt sure because i read so much on it lifting the rear of the car instead of squating.
** If the car squats or rises, excessively, the suspension is not working correctly.
also how do the no hop bars work or do any of you run them?
** About all I've seen those do, is rip the holes you have to drill, out of the center section..Junk, IMO.
what kind of pinion angle do you guys run? im gonna get a good drag shock for it next. what about the front? anything special?"

**I'd like to see 3-4* angle. You need to have good uppers and lowers to hold the setting under hard accel.
If you want to get serious w/ the tuning, I'd suggest double adjustables on all 4 corners.

** Ditch the bag, and install an HR Parts antiroll bar, when you do the shocks.
FWIW: A pair of Moroso ft springs, and a good race alignment made a BIG difference in my car.:D

Here's a good site for info:
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11
It would be worth your time to register and read the various threads, especially with Billy Shope's responses..
 
cool ill check those out.what about shock location?do i need to move the shock mounting straight up and down or is the stock angle ok? ive never really seen any fast buicks setups is why im asking so many questions.do most run the stock location mounting points on the lowers also or do you lower the back?lol i know nobody wants to come out a tell me their setup so thanks to those who posted aty least a little help :)
 
I'd use

kingots2004 said:
cool ill check those out.what about shock location?do i need to move the shock mounting straight up and down or is the stock angle ok? ive never really seen any fast buicks setups is why im asking so many questions.do most run the stock location mounting points on the lowers also or do you lower the back?lol i know nobody wants to come out a tell me their setup so thanks to those who posted aty least a little help :)
Click to expand...

the stock mountings.
My setup:
Stock, 3.42 rear axle w/ Moser axles and a Detroit locker.
2" drops on the rear of the lower arms.
3* pinion angle.
Single adj HAls, all 4 corners.
10.5x28 M/t slicks.
Stock rear springs.
My own uppers/lowers.
HR bar, NO bags.
No ft swaybar.
Moroso BBC springs.
A "race" alignment.
I had the align tech check all settings with me in the car, race wt. Printed the results.
We then raised the car 1" and reprinted.
Another inch, reprinted. We saw the caster was going negative, by comparing the printouts.
Since the car was going thru the traps w/ the ft end up about 2+", we set the camber, toe, and max caster for good handling at that hgt. [even w/ the shocks full loose, and the Moroso springs, the ft end would not settle. Tooo much powa!]:D :D
Pinion angle is not a "tuning device". Correct angle just allows for joint alignment to minimize power loss.

Another "place" to visit:
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s3
 
Chuck Leeper said:
the stock mountings.
My setup:
Stock, 3.42 rear axle w/ Moser axles and a Detroit locker.
2" drops on the rear of the lower arms.
3* pinion angle.
Single adj HAls, all 4 corners.
10.5x28 M/t slicks.
Stock rear springs.
My own uppers/lowers.
HR bar, NO bags.
No ft swaybar.
Moroso BBC springs.
A "race" alignment.
I had the align tech check all settings with me in the car, race wt. Printed the results.
We then raised the car 1" and reprinted.
Another inch, reprinted. We saw the caster was going negative, by comparing the printouts.
Since the car was going thru the traps w/ the ft end up about 2+", we set the camber, toe, and max caster for good handling at that hgt. [even w/ the shocks full loose, and the Moroso springs, the ft end would not settle. Tooo much powa!]:D :D
Pinion angle is not a "tuning device". Correct angle just allows for joint alignment to minimize power loss.

Another "place" to visit:
Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels
Click to expand...

wow thanks again chuck.what i had seen on the other board is the stock mounting is fine you just have to set your rear shocks alittle stiffer due to less travel because of the angle.have yopu ever tried your combo on an unprepped surface?
 
i added these bmr brackets that have a 2,3,4 drop on them.im gonna try these and see how it does. also rolled the rear to -2.5 pinion angle.
 

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Update please. I am struggling myself. Very similar setup, I have a Th400 w/ Tbrake. I can not hook a starving fish. I have approached it the same as you, trying every combination of power to get it to hook. Let me know how relocating the lowers help. Can you measure the final angle of the lowers? Are you targeting parallel with the ground and/or chassis?

Are you considering lowering the rear to change the IC?

Have you put your car on scales? What consideration have you given weight distribution.

I need some major help. Much lower Hp cars (mustangs etc) all think I am slower, because I might as well be in burnout box when I leave... prepped/unprepped.

Thanks
 
well im going to noble this weekend hopefully and can see whats up. i went once since i relocated them and it had a 1.8 60 which was better than the 2.17 it had on the same tires but my wastegate stuck so i had to abort the run. ive got some new slicks im gonna try so ill let you know how they work. i dont like the way they look they are a 29.5 x 10.5 / 15 mt slick. they got the back of my rig all jacked up lol but i hope they help.

what we did on the brackets was bolt on the brackets, hook up the control arms the roll the rear till we got the pinion angle we wanted and welded them in place. adjustable uppers would work better but i was strapped for cash after i bought the brackets. they are bmr brackets with 2,3 and 4 inch adjustments and if you notice we had to mod the bottom of the bracet to get them to work. in their stock config they hit the rim and tire so be ready for that if you go with these brackets
 
Refer to post #6. Have any vids been made?
The pic shows no rear bar... Why?
As for the 29.5 tire... Without a big HP hit, the car will likely be slower in the 60'..
 
Chuck Leeper said:
Refer to post #6. Have any vids been made?
The pic shows no rear bar... Why?
As for the 29.5 tire... Without a big HP hit, the car will likely be slower in the 60'..
Click to expand...

no vids yet.only been to the track once and only got about 100 foot run before i had to call it quits due to a overboosting problem.

as far as tha bar i havent decided what im gonna do yet but probly a anti roll bar. bolt in sway bar hangs really low with the relocation brackets.dont think it would work good in a pot hole lol.

i would like to leave on about 10 to 15 lbs of boost.plus a nitrous shot in the near future. also got a deal on the tires so i figured i might as well try them lol.
 
The 29.5 could easily hurt more than help. It's worth a shot, it may not make enough power to spin them:biggrin:

Generally, everything Chuck mentioned will help. Lowering the rear of the car is one of the best things you can do to help the rear geometry.

You don't want the rear of the car so jacked up that it has your upper arms pointed upwards. Ideally, you want these pointed down. The only way to do this is to lower the ride height with springs or to buy the relocation kit from baselinesupensions. It will help get the geometry right.

Here it is

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/kits/chevy.htm
 
Prior to going to the HR bar, I made a set of "extender links" to raise the bar bolt holes at the rear of the lca. This tucked the bar back up under the hsg..Too many possums around here to leave it low!
Ended up ditching the bags, the bar, and adding the HR bar.. worked like a charm!
 
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