stock or roller..decisions..decisions...

B

BKLYN2FLORIDA

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2009
ok people...need ur advice again

im in the middle of doing a rebuild..
some people say save ur $$ and dont get roller, except for timing chaim, since the car is not really going to be drag raced.
others say...go all the way...roller everything....
im looking for honest professional opinion.
i do not have unlimited funds...thats #1
i want a car that maybe want to do low.mid 11s if i wanted too
im definatley getting an alchy kit, later in time a bigger turbi, dump, exhaust..etc.
the build is going to be stock, im not sure yet about boring, porting etc...
so is it worth the change over to roller, i dont bother spenign $10 on zinc additives, if thats the only real major reason, and also i dontr want to redo the motor in another 3-5 years cause of another cam failure.
also what is the best component to redo a motor to stocl or slightly better
thanks
i know its alot but trying to wrap my head in what i actually want....:eek:
 
I'd go with a roller. Read the stories of wiped cam lobes. And make sure you have a thrust washed in betweent eh block and cam :rolleyes:. While your at it I would also get roller rockers, that way they can be adjusted. If you plan on a rebuild, plan on spending some loot. Also I would have a vendor build the block. .02
 
You can do either...as your budget will allow...

I am a big proponent of roller cam engines, however if you don't simply have the budget you can DO a flat tappet cam, but you must break it in properly. If you do decide to go flat tappet get with Edelbrock's 204/214 cam and talk to ARICH2000 on the board and get some of his Z-Paste to help with break in...flat tappets can be installed and LIVE regardless....:D

All the best...

Chambers
 
If I did it again I would go roller but I am not unhappy with my flat tappet. I have 2500 miles on the engine with zero problems. Rollers definitely cost more and alot of guys have gone well past the 11's without a roller. Do make sure you break the cam in properly if you go flat tappet.
 
I have had 4 flat tappet cams... I now have a Roller cam with new roller lifters, beehive Springs, Push Rods. I wish I had done it years ago... $900-1000 is tough but it works
 
thats what i mean ELLISDALLASWE4. all that previous work and $$ spent, wouldve save it if you went to roller in the get-go.
im planning to keep this car for years to come, i think im gonn go roller..let me go roll my A$$ to the bank as we speak...lol..
 
Aircraft use roller - this alone should make decisions easier.

Break in with a roller does not need to run a new engine at 2k on startup, just to break in a cam. I always start a new engine & run it at idle for the first few minutes - same as we did on aircraft engines.

Roller is worth the $.

Most new cars , cheep & expensive - performance & beater now have rollers.

Latest oils do not have the additive needed to support flat tappet - EPA doesn't care about your car failing due to government mandates.
 
BKLYN2FLORIDA said:
ok people...need ur advice again

im in the middle of doing a rebuild..
some people say save ur $$ and dont get roller, except for timing chaim, since the car is not really going to be drag raced.
others say...go all the way...roller everything....
im looking for honest professional opinion.
i do not have unlimited funds...thats #1
i want a car that maybe want to do low.mid 11s if i wanted too
im definatley getting an alchy kit, later in time a bigger turbi, dump, exhaust..etc.
the build is going to be stock, im not sure yet about boring, porting etc...
so is it worth the change over to roller, i dont bother spenign $10 on zinc additives, if thats the only real major reason, and also i dontr want to redo the motor in another 3-5 years cause of another cam failure.
also what is the best component to redo a motor to stocl or slightly better
thanks
i know its alot but trying to wrap my head in what i actually want....:eek:
Click to expand...
The flat tappet problems were caused buy bad oil. The fix (every time) Is good oil. I recomend you GOOGLE Brad Penn. This is the brand name of a partial synthetic oil made at the oldest continuously operated refinery In the USA in Bradford Pensylvania. Get it? Brad Penn. I love my roller. It makes more power over a broader RPM range. This means it can idle nice and pull hard to 6,000. Sleeper. This broader RPM range costs something. Don't make your decision because you're worried about wiping a cam. Roller or flat tappet, use this oil. When you rebuild the motor,you have to get ported heads (from Champion) along with their ported intake.
 
Ttype6 said:
The flat tappet problems were caused buy bad oil. The fix (every time) Is good oil. I recomend you GOOGLE Brad Penn. This is the brand name of a partial synthetic oil made at the oldest continuously operated refinery In the USA in Bradford Pensylvania. Get it? Brad Penn. I love my roller. It makes more power over a broader RPM range. This means it can idle nice and pull hard to 6,000. Sleeper. This broader RPM range costs something. Don't make your decision because you're worried about wiping a cam. Roller or flat tappet, use this oil. When you rebuild the motor,you have to get ported heads (from Champion) along with their ported intake.
Click to expand...

you said i need to get ported head and intake, i want to do that for sure, but would it really make that much difference.
thanks
and if i do get roller, is the engine that much harder to blow rather than just head gaskets. i figure the motor will be almost indestructable...right?
 
LOL...yea it sound funny...:biggrin:, but i meant if i do a roller system set-up.
ill most likely never have a failure with the rocker system, that the conventional set-up. ie.. lifters, rods, cam etc, since there is more chance of break-down.?...well thats what im figuring...:confused:
i know there will always be detonation problems, etc.
BUT yea.im probably doing the roller cam set-up.
BTW the humor id free of charger...lol...:tongue:
 
BKLYN2FLORIDA said:
you said i need to get ported head and intake, i want to do that for sure, but would it really make that much difference.
thanks
and if i do get roller, is the engine that much harder to blow rather than just head gaskets. i figure the motor will be almost indestructable...right?
Click to expand...
Heads and intake 40 -50 horsepower. It will support everything you do after that. Neither roller nor flat will give you problems if you use the right oil. If by blow up you mean head gaskets,you'll blow every kind out there if you allow it to detonate enough. None of the parts will make that less likely to happen. Its all in the hands of the tuner/operator. Again,I love my roller. If you buy a cam of any kind,make shure it has equal duration on the intake and exhaust or more on the intake. Don't get one with more on the exhaust. I recommend the cams at Webber Racing. Brian Webber is a real nice guy and easy to talk to.
 
Ttype6 said:
If you buy a cam of any kind,make shure it has equal duration on the intake and exhaust or more on the intake. Don't get one with more on the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Ummm.... in theory, and from an engineering standpoint, thus, 'on paper', you want more a bit more duration on the exhaust... the reasons being 2-fold:

1) with forced induction (turbo), the pressurizing of the intake results in more flow thru the intake valves for a given duration, and thus a little more exhaust (think of as 'unpressurized') duration is beneficial to 'equalize, so to speak', the flow or duration effects of int vs. ext....

2) the bit of extra exhaust duration should be of benefit overall because it allow more exhaust flow to power the turbo, which results in more boost, which results in more intake flow.....

and FWIW, if I'm not mistaken, the cam in your sig (210/215) would be 210 intake/215 exhaust.....

of course there are plenty of caveats to 'theory', but..... Just sayin'.... :)
 
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