Still looking for ideas

twodafloor

Twodafloor
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
I admit to not enjoying working on cars anymore. Still tracking down the trouble with my T. Starts, runs a few seconds then dies. will do repeatedly . Tried a known good ign/mod/coil pack, have fire at injectors (noid lit), cam sensor seems ok (led lites up, no looseness), show fuel pressure whole time,Tps shows .46 ,running ltl maf with genll and am assuming it's working for now. traded ecm's around didn't change anything,back with original for now. I am getting to old and tired, not surrendering yet just welcomeing suggestions. I looked at all the connector pins on ECM harness,don't see a problem there. Thanks guys, Mark Also no codes, or ses lite
 
Alternator bad? Battery charging/charged? your loosing fuel,fire or Ignition timing. Have you checked the IAC sensor for trash?
Start simple, could just be bad batch of Gasoline.
 
haha Thanks for the reply. This has been an ongoing saga. Plenty of fuel. IAC motor seems ok-regardless that just affects idle. I can't keep it running feathering the throttle. I am thinking maybe fuel pump is not running after intial start. still looking. The intial trouble started going down road, threw ses, my scanmaster blank displayed- thought maybe a wiring issue, haven't found that yet. Thanks for looking.
 
The tps is a little high,i would try setting it to .42 key on/engine off, i would wait and do this after resetting the IAC though.

Also as mentioned for the IAC, i would remove it to inspect and clean and reset after reinstalling it. I usually just spray the tip and shaft/spring with throttle body cleaner then dry it with a paper towel and also spray/clean out the throttle body while i'm doing this.

You can find the procedure for resetting the IAC on the site below.

www.vortexbuicks-etc.com

IAC (Idle Air Control) Adjustment
The IAC function maintains idle quality through commands from the ECM, but, has NO impact beyond the idle range. Further, the IAC reading means nothing once the car is off idle.
Idle speed is set by the chip, not by the IAC adjustment screw. Looking at the inside of the throttle body, there are two holes in the lower portion fore and aft of the throttle blade. At idle, the blade is essentially closed and air enters the front hole, goes past the IAC plunger, and exits behind the throttle blade into the plenum. The IAC plunger is pulsed by the ECM to maintain a steady idle with varying engine load.
When the IAC is adjusted, we seem to typically look for IAC counts on our scan tool somewhere between 15-25 when the car is in Park, the engine fully warmed up, and the A/C is off. The lower the IAC number, the less control the ECM has over the idle as the throttle blade begins to be opened. This setting may not be as critical as we often make it. You may find your car idles just as well at 40 counts as it does at 15.
With car in Park, engine fully warm, A/C off, look at the IAC counts on the scan tool. If you wish to lower the count number, turn the adjustment screw clockwise. To increase the counts, turn it counterclockwise. Turn the screw a small increment, turn the engine off, and restart. This insures that the IAC resets and confirms the adjusted number. Continue until the desired number is achieved. Often, on stock set ups, about 1-1 1/2 threads of the adjustment screw will emerge thru on the lever side of the throttle body. Restarting also rezeros the tps as stated in the prior section and removes any effect on idle speed that may have occurred due to tps movement. The IAC counts will probably be 30 counts, or more, higher on a cold engine than on a warmed up engine. The counts will also be much higher in gear as compared to Park, and, higher with the AC turned on.
Remember that the IAC adjustment will change the TPS and that if the TPS moves past 0.46 volts, the idle may increase in speed as the ecm no longer thinks the car is in idle range. Therefore, if you are going to decrease IAC counts very much, it is a good idea to first lower the TPS down to 0.38 volts or so in order to prevent it from rising out of the idle range as you adjust the IAC.
It is not a bad idea to clean the throttle body out periodically with carb cleaner to keep the passages clean and to insure that the IAC function works correctly. Remove the IAC from the housing and clean any carbon or gum off the tip of the plunger and clean the seat as well. Don't power up the IAC when the unit is not installed. Otherwise, you may find the plunger is pushed out of the sensor. When reinstalling, very little torque is required. Just tighten enough to compress the gasket to prevent an air leak. Over tightening may crack the plastic interior of the IAC.
 
Yea I have been in the Vortex site heavy of late. As far as the Maf goes I am going in that direction next. I run a LTl maf with genll translator and wide band. I didn't do the install so now I have to study up on that . Thanks for the replys.
 
Yea I have been in the Vortex site heavy of late. As far as the Maf goes I am going in that direction next. I run a LTl maf with genll translator and wide band. I didn't do the install so now I have to study up on that . Thanks for the replys.

Is the gen2 spliced in or plug and play?

Key on engine off turn the scanmaster to af. Push the gas down. Does the number move?

Are you sure your chip does not have anti theft?
 
I think TurboBuRick is on to something in his post!! I had one towed to me doing the same thing.
 
If the chip has anti-theft try the conplete disable sequence for valet or the method that bypasses it for track use.
NOT the standard simple disable sequence.
 
don't think is has anti theft, I bought this chip when I bought the genll, its a Turbotweak, genll is spliced with over 4000 miles troublefree in this car.
 
don't think is has anti theft, I bought this chip when I bought the genll, its a Turbotweak, genll is spliced with over 4000 miles troublefree in this car.

I would crawl under the dash and see if their are any funny looking boxes or wiring jobs that just dont look right. This sounds like an anti-theft problem so maybe a previous owner installed an aftermarket unit and once you changed wires or changed the power input the alarm dosnt like it and wont let it run. Just an idea though...
 
Ok made some strides today- found the info that came with my Extender Extreme G chip by Turbotweak- no anti-theft feature. Ok we made sure fuel pump is running when key is "on". put stock maf back in, changed chip to old one without Genll feature (Thought might run this way) all to no avail. Unplugged MaftPro genll translator- car now runs- I guess in limp home mode and is driveable- although quite rich. Is my translator bad? Is my wideband bad? I swapped around my Ltl mafs before, made no diff. Also changed TPS, even though it showed ok reading on scanmaster. So I feel I have spark, fuel, a little problem with reading my airflow. Now you guys are pretty much up to date. Thanks
 
Changing maf's didn't make a difference, but unplugging the translator did? Did you try it with the maf unplugged? Sounds like a bad translator to me.
 
Yes tried that early on didn't run any better. nothing made difference til I unhooked the translator box.
 
When things like this happen it's either a setting in the translator is not right or a connection has been lost. Since your car was running it's prolly a lost connection where the translator is spliced.
 
Ok made some strides today- found the info that came with my Extender Extreme G chip by Turbotweak- no anti-theft feature. Ok we made sure fuel pump is running when key is "on". put stock maf back in, changed chip to old one without Genll feature (Thought might run this way) all to no avail. Unplugged MaftPro genll translator- car now runs- I guess in limp home mode and is driveable- although quite rich. Is my translator bad? Is my wideband bad? I swapped around my Ltl mafs before, made no diff. Also changed TPS, even though it showed ok reading on scanmaster. So I feel I have spark, fuel, a little problem with reading my airflow. Now you guys are pretty much up to date. Thanks
With the entire Gen II disconnected,does it run on the stock maf and non Gen II chip. If so then you have your answer.

I remember when it was down here in Jan 2010 that the 1st Gen II took a dump,I hooked up your other and all was well. Maybe time to send both to Bob for evaluation.
 
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