Okay, I recently went to a dual fan set up.....they kick on just fine, however I believe that was just one of my issues. I finally cranked her up (started as normal), but upon shut down I could feel a little bit of water on the bottom hose as I squeezed it but the top hose just seemed full of air. I put a squeeze on it and heard or felt no water at all. Wouldn't this indicate a lack of circulation? I turned it off and heard a loud hiss until air was depleted. Sound like a water pump to you guys?
Still a cooling issue
- Thread starter Dhos1
- Start date
Does the car need to be running when I'm doing this?
dank GN
BlackArts Automotive (661)993-8277
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2009
You wouldn't be the first one . Did you retourqe the heads after the first heat cycle ? Anyway a leakdown test will tell a lot .
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2010
A compression test will identify a cylinder that is "weaker" than the rest.
That, in turn, will more than likely point to a head gasket issue. From there, the cooling issue is obvious.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
Many ways to blow a head gasket. Sometimes they just blow out and sound like a header leak, sometimes they blow out into the intake manifold area, sometimes they blow out between 2 cylinders and some blow into the cooling passages between the head and block. It sounds like you may have exhaust gas entering into the cooling system so it might be seeping thru a gasket and need re-torquing or could be blown. The compression numbers should be close to each other when you do the test and if they aren't then you will know where to start. Sometimes you can see air bubbles in the radiator if you start the engine with the cap off. The exhaust gas will pressurize the cooling system and cause the car to overheat if you have enough getting into the cooling system.
Sometimes I've seen issues with air getting trapped in the cooling system (not on a GN but it is possible) I normally pull the top heater core line and pour coolant into the hose with the radiator cap off until it gets to the top of the radiator. I figure this will insure the water pump has water in it before I start it.
HTH
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
They say don't go more than 30 over so you don't crack a cylinder bore, don't have issues with it overheating and because of core shift. If the block was sonic checked and the casting is thick enough you could go 40 over but then you would probably wonder if it's going to survive when you crank the boost up to 30 psi even if you have a girdle and billet caps. If you were to keep it close to stock including boost level you could probably bore it 60 over but there are too many 109 blocks left and it would be a poor investment strategy with the cost of building these engines. With a NA engine they bore them to get a few more cubic inches but since we are force feeding these the added cubic inches are close to pointless. You're better off boring it as little as possible.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
These motors have plenty of meat in the bores. I've taken them .060 over with no problems so .030 over is definitely not the problem.
As far as the cooling issue, did you burp the system when you first filled with coolant?
As far as the cooling issue, did you burp the system when you first filled with coolant?
No disintegrations
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2015
A clue to a compression in cooling system . With engine hot and idling and cap still on, look in coolant overflow tank. See if there are continuous small bubbles rising up from radiator. There shouldn't be any if engine is sealed tight.
New topic. To burp the system start a cold engine with the rad cap off.
Note to coolant level in the rad. As it warms up you will see coolant start moving when the thermostat opens. Add coolant to the top and keep watching for a couple minutes. When you think all air is out put the cap on and shut it down.
New topic. To burp the system start a cold engine with the rad cap off.
Note to coolant level in the rad. As it warms up you will see coolant start moving when the thermostat opens. Add coolant to the top and keep watching for a couple minutes. When you think all air is out put the cap on and shut it down.
Okay, I have officially entered the worlds dumbest GN owner category. I'm sure I'm not the 1st, but as I looked down on the floor next to the car as I was attempting to do a burp procedure. I realized that I only put in 1 gallon of distilled water and the rest was sitting there. Temps lowered and fans kicked in on point and she cooled down and stayed there.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Actually you are leaving the "dumbest owner" category and entering the "educated owner" arena as most of us have have learned a LOT by our mistakes, and for over 30 years I have been "educated" by dumb mistakes, weird issues and lots of re-doing!
Any time you "mess" with the cooling system, always warm the engine to operating temp before the cap is installed to assure all air is expelled and it is full.
