Starter/Flywheel on the way out?

[Johnnie]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but don't GM starters have a separate solenoid mounted on them? I have had the solenoid weaken on my BB Chevelle and basically behaved the same way---grind and click especially when warm. I know it doesn't address the stalling issue, but it sounds like two different things. I sure wish I could hear / see the video. Good luck.

 

[JustABuick]

Okay, thanks everyone. I'll check those this weekend and see if it helps. I assume Dave is right on the torque converter causing the stalling, which is fine. The main issue is the noise, which I am beginning to think is the starter. The only reason I mentioned the stalling issues is because it makes the noise after it stalls, not on the initial start.

Here's what we see when clicking on that link:

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I sure wish I could hear / see the video. Good luck.

I will create a YouTube account tonight and upload the videos there, and place the links here. Sorry for the first couple of failed attempts!

 

[JustABuick]

Third time's a charm....

And after the stall

l

 

[TurboDave]

You've got two different problems. The stall is one thing. The first vid shows that you have a very slow cranking! Either a dieing battery or starter.
Stalling when shifting into gear is your vigilante.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Haven't read all the posts:
Fuel pump priming? If not, you are starting with the oil psi bypass sw. = extended crank time.
5* and E85.
Same starter as the 90K engine?
Volt drop test?
Any scan tool readings?

 

[JustABuick]

Right, thanks Dave. The two videos are just for comparison reasons: cold start makes no funny noises, only the restart does. The cranking was extra slow that day, it was very cold out. Sounds like the funny noise is caused by the starter.

Chuck, the fuel pump sounds like it is primping, a brand new DW300 from Nick. Yep, same starter as the 90k engine, and I think I actually have a spare starter in the garage somewhere. Haven't run a volt drop test, but it seems to be the next step. I have a scanmaster, what readings should I be looking for?

The first two or three times I ran the car since switching to e85 gave me no issues or funny noises, so if it is the starter, the problem just starting happening recently.

Thanks,
Kelly

 

[Johnnie]

To me, anyway, since you say it was very cold , that would explain the slow cranking. Granted, a new ( or known good) starter would speed it up some. But , the second video it appears to be cranking plenty fast. It sounds like lack of ignition / spark is preventing it from firing "all the way up". When it doesn't start, do you smell exhaust like you would when a car diesels on pump gas? Or maybe there is not ENOUGH of a spark to light the intake charge....
Just a thought..

 

[JustABuick]

To me, anyway, since you say it was very cold , that would explain the slow cranking. Granted, a new ( or known good) starter would speed it up some. But , the second video it appears to be cranking plenty fast. It sounds like lack of ignition / spark is preventing it from firing "all the way up". When it doesn't start, do you smell exhaust like you would when a car diesels on pump gas? Or maybe there is not ENOUGH of a spark to light the intake charge....
Just a thought..

Well I will definitely need new plugs, since I need a different gap for E85, so that could be some of the issue. I haven't really noticed any odd exhaust smell, though.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The sound of the starter cranking after the stall is somewhat normal. What I hear is the engine trying to start and not, which is why it sounds strange. The engine finally starts when you hit the go-pedal a bit while cranking.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[JustABuick]

The sound of the starter cranking after the stall is somewhat normal. What I hear is the engine trying to start and not, which is why it sounds strange. The engine finally starts when you hit the go-pedal a bit while cranking.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Yep, that's accurate. Is that because I don't have the E85 gapped plugs yet, or is there something else going on? I could add some fuel via the MAF Translator, too

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Hard to say what is causing the hard restart. Thinking about it opening the throttle allows more air, which dos two things. Pulls the fuel into the chambers, and allows more air to lean it a bit.

As for adding fuel, it would be cranking fuel, not running fuel. Try a little more, if that doesn't help go a little less. Just need to work the AFR a bit to see what works.

Opening the IAC further during cranking may also help.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[JustABuick]

Hard to say what is causing the hard restart. Thinking about it opening the throttle allows more air, which dos two things. Pulls the fuel into the chambers, and allows more air to lean it a bit.

As for adding fuel, it would be cranking fuel, not running fuel. Try a little more, if that doesn't help go a little less. Just need to work the AFR a bit to see what works.

Opening the IAC further during cranking may also help.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Thank you, I added 10% fuel with the translator, and popped in new plugs gapped at .030, and that helped an unrelated issue I had of cutting out while rolling into the throttle, but it still had a rough restart. I could read up on IAC adjustments and try that next.

What is a good aftermarket starter for these cars, an LT1 would run about $190 from NAPA, I might be able to get an aftermarket one for that price.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Do what i did and go with a mini starter, one of the best move ive done. Weight is 7 pounds, wires are much easier to get off and on and alot more room around pipes. Get rid of that 30 pound monster.

 

[Gene Van Horn]

Kirbans and few other venders have, I think 107.00

 

[JustABuick]

okay, I'll check around to see if I can find one. Wouldn't mind something a little smaller, the stock one is a beast.