Joe Kelsch
Eat Mo' Rats
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
As you guys can see I'm having a few problems with my 86 T-Type.
When I first got the car it would run really rough after a cold start, break up after a full throttle blast and do a little sputter at cruising speed and knock the converter out of lock-up. So I disconnected the lock-up so it wouldn't destroy the converter.
Here's what I know of the motor. It's been rebuilt. Bored .020 over with Speed Pro forged pistons. The heads are rebuilt with "better" springs and stock size aftermarket valves. The cam is a GS club 206/206 with a double roller timing chain. The ECM is a new Reman'd one with a stock chip. Injectors are stock rebuilt ones. The coil pack, cam sensor and crank sensor have been replaced previously. I has a big fuel pump with a hot wire kit. I recently replaced the O2 sensor since it threw a code on the Scanmaster 2.1. I changed the spark plugs
I've done a search on my problem and it seems that one of the culprits could be the MAF. So after I changed my oil yesterday I took it off and cleaned it up as well as the air temp guage. Now the car will almost stall when accelerating off idle. I've read one way to determine a faulty MAF would be to unplug it and see if the car runs better. I did that today and it seemed to idle better, but still rough. So I decided to see if it could be driven. After about 2000 RPM it would kinda die (I guess that's what the limp home mode is). So I pulled over and plugged the MAF back in and the car stalled (I guess I should of shut it off first). Now it will stall after a pull to 2000-3000 RPM. Is this the work of the MAF or am I dealing with bigger problems??
I've ordered a new MAF (don't know what brand but probably junk) and new AC Delco plug wires (just to rule that out, and its nice to have an extra set anyway). These will be in at Advance Auto tomarrow afternoon.
This is my first turbo car so bear with me. I'm used to my V8 cars where a handfull of zipties and a roll of duct tape will get you home 90% of the time.
When I first got the car it would run really rough after a cold start, break up after a full throttle blast and do a little sputter at cruising speed and knock the converter out of lock-up. So I disconnected the lock-up so it wouldn't destroy the converter.
Here's what I know of the motor. It's been rebuilt. Bored .020 over with Speed Pro forged pistons. The heads are rebuilt with "better" springs and stock size aftermarket valves. The cam is a GS club 206/206 with a double roller timing chain. The ECM is a new Reman'd one with a stock chip. Injectors are stock rebuilt ones. The coil pack, cam sensor and crank sensor have been replaced previously. I has a big fuel pump with a hot wire kit. I recently replaced the O2 sensor since it threw a code on the Scanmaster 2.1. I changed the spark plugs
I've done a search on my problem and it seems that one of the culprits could be the MAF. So after I changed my oil yesterday I took it off and cleaned it up as well as the air temp guage. Now the car will almost stall when accelerating off idle. I've read one way to determine a faulty MAF would be to unplug it and see if the car runs better. I did that today and it seemed to idle better, but still rough. So I decided to see if it could be driven. After about 2000 RPM it would kinda die (I guess that's what the limp home mode is). So I pulled over and plugged the MAF back in and the car stalled (I guess I should of shut it off first). Now it will stall after a pull to 2000-3000 RPM. Is this the work of the MAF or am I dealing with bigger problems??
I've ordered a new MAF (don't know what brand but probably junk) and new AC Delco plug wires (just to rule that out, and its nice to have an extra set anyway). These will be in at Advance Auto tomarrow afternoon.
This is my first turbo car so bear with me. I'm used to my V8 cars where a handfull of zipties and a roll of duct tape will get you home 90% of the time.
