Spun Bearing

Spun Bearing...... Rebuild/repair it or Replace Engine?

  • Rebuild/repair it for less now and start saving for a new engine...

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    4
He is going to wind up with a higher compression ratio if he uses GN pistons with TTA heads.
As already stated..
TTA Piston/TTa head 9:1 Cr
GN piston/TTa head 9.27:1 Cr
+.27 increase in Cr
Not much increase, better for spool up, and ability to run less boost, plus other benifits
 
I am running wide band, alki, and have an adjustable wastegate. What do you think the boost should be set at with this set up?

Thanks for the help and input.
 
It will have new TE-44 turbo on the rebuild down from a TE-63. It also has the 3" downpipe, front mount intercooler, precision external wastegate, art carr 2800 stall, 60lb injectors, bailey chip, walbro fuel pump with hot wire kit, ford 9" rear end, cat delete, and borla exhaust.
 
You have plenty of good stuff on the build and the added compression won't be a problem. You just need to probably tune it a little different. I am sure there are plenty of guys here who can help out with that question.
 
I don't think you will have any trouble with the higher CR. Just start with low boost and slowly and safely turn it up. Start at ten pounds and add boost a little at a time until you get knock then back it off a pound or two.
 
If you run a higher CR the motor will want more fuel at almost all rpm. Add more fuel to the map to compensate, once you have it tuned in you can always have Eric burn you a chip for it.
 
Thanks Reggie, Great advice.
I will work it out with the tuner.
This car definitely burned more gas over the stocker, for sure.
 
I'd really like to see you post some pictures of the main bearing lower halves,especially #2 and 3 of the old motor.
Something's not adding up in it's demise.
 
I should of posted the pics, I put them on turbotransam.com but not here. It is a running thread on my restoration of the car.

OK, here are some more pics of my progress... I decided to keep it white, more unique to the car and black would have been such a major job and way more $$$ to do and good thing I didn't...since the engine spun a bearing on the way home from picking it up form the body shop... well now at least the car will have a new motor to match the new interior and exterior.... I would have shown you pics of the new headliner, but didn't want to open the door....you'll see why...

My new front bumper...no more license plate bracket or spiderwebs in the corners of the fog lights...

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My freshly painted hood...I think it is installed wrong...
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The New Fiberglass spoiler. Same problem with this one as the last one. Didn't fit as well on the passenger side as the driver side.... will have to do the white caulk treatment to hide the gap again....
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Tinted the windows %5 limo to match the t-tops and wheels...gives it a good clean and sinister look...
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Something is missing...
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Not for long, here is a new SG1 block for RAYDER...
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This is why.... at least the strainer works...sort of....
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Houston, we have a problem....
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Can you tell where the spun bearing is and which rod was loose and knocking????
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The cam shaft also had wear in at least 4 areas....
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The damaged bearing is the second one in from the right. Discolored and loose.
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The new block for RAYDER....

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I learned so much today....Now we wait patiently for all the rest of the parts to arrive.... More updates to follow....
 
Nasty! What's that wire from? Good luck with the new engine.
 
The wire looking thing is a long thin spring and we had no idea what it was or where it could have came from. But now it make sense why the oil pressure was bouncing around. The oil pump was either not working or severely clogged or both. I am thinking both after seeing this.

I ordered a new front cover with high volume oil pump for the new engine. I don't want that old one any where near it.
 
Don't ya just love "mystery" pieces?
 
Could that wire be from the pressure relief spring in the front cover?
 
I thought it was the bearing but there is so much there...has to be more than that...
 
How do you tell if there are stock TTA heads on the car? I don' think the heads on TTA were stock anymore. The previous owner said that was one of the upgrades, bigger heads. Is there a serial number or something on them?

I think they are P/N 25536702, ported heads for a TTA. Does this make it better for the higher compression of the pistons?

Here are a couple of pics of the heads. These are the only numbers I found on them.



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