SMC alky kit

[1BadassGN]

my low alky sensor doesnt lighht up when its low? and it doesnt light up when its spraying. any ideas?

 

[berserker6]

If you have a test button does
the spray light come on when hit?

 

[1BadassGN]

no. the spray on nor low light come on or fuction

 

[berserker6]

do you know whether the pump is coming on when you hit the test button? (im able to hear my pump at idle) if not check connections/fuses

 

[berserker6]

any progress?

 

[1BadassGN]

yea the pump works fine if i hit the test button the car will stumble and almost stall then itll idle fine.

 

[salvageV6]

Assuming an older kit with the low alky. float inside the bottle or square bottle.......

If you can do some simple installation after verifying your float switch is bad this one works just fine.

Omega Engineering in CT has an all brass body float switch that shouldn't go bad for a long time.

Model LV-10 and it isn't cheap at $33 plus shipping and tax.

Short the two wires that go to the float switch and make sure the light comes on controller. Make sure that the wires are not deteriorated at the jack connections as well. If broken or intermittant there fix them by bypassing the connector and sealing the hole.

If you determine it's a cracked float body and bad reed switch this one works great.

 

[Razor]

Wow what a ripoff.. you can get that same float from McMastercarr.com for $11.24 .

50195k93

McMaster-Carr

:wink:

 

[salvageV6]

There is no comparison to a lab. grade switch with a brass body and the plastic ones listed which would be equivalent to the stock cheapies some vendors use and sell.

I'm only gonna swap mine out once.

I always thought a "ripoff" was an over-priced Winnebago RTV water pump. :biggrin:

It's about the "same" as the Northern Hydraulic ones.

 

[Razor]

Dont forget the wire nuts to hook that lab grade sensor up :wink:

The word "lab grade" brings up a lot of random thoughts. I start to wonder what engine compartment would be worthy of "lab grade" parts maybe you can post a picture of your engine compartment that requires such refinement in the quality of parts used so we all can see and understand the need.

 

[salvageV6]

Lab grade parts are needed when you only want to change out a difficult to get at part once.

I don't swap out alky. pumps every two years like some misguided folks recommend.

Wirenuts work a lot better than butt splices on my car, and I guess they would have to, as every 110V, 220V, and some higher voltage. with tons of amps. behind them. in and outside your home, use WIRENUTS to insure the integrity of the connection.

They are a lab grade part. :smile:

The pics. of my engine bay won't show my stock un-fried headgaskets nor will they show a leaky Winnebago water..... errr alky. pump.

So in comparing a cheapy float to a lab grade float, apples to oranges, now what was the ripoff again?