Short lived Typhoon

[maitai1993]

1 91 syclone no problems 65k
1 93 typhoon 80k with a TON ASS of things done to it stock moto and trans. been down the track a few times no problems its the way people drive and most abuse them not knowing that if you floor ir on the freeway its prob going to over boost.. but they still do things that cause the truck to break.. my 2 cents..
if your looking for a good rep. builder go to www.syty.net and find a guy named jwaller hes good and after that it will need to be tuned so look for Jeff Scott @ www.jsmanfacturing.com of in the syty board

 

[Hognose]

I am sorry to hear about your Ty. Although again my Buddies Ty he beats the heck out of Stock except for Alky and he is running 12.7's He launches at 8-12 lbs all day long on the street.
The alky was recent. I think anything that detonates will eventually take a dive.

UR50SLO,
How did using a paper clip to lock the converter toast the motor?

Thanks

 

[Raist103]

hey scott that engine bay is looking good i was hoping to see more done since nats. looking good so far got any larger pics? i have a 02 z that color and was going to do my newest ty orange with black cladding or some other way.

oh yeah to stay on post syty engines sucks

 

[sy733]

I guess you could say a Syclone is not for just anybody. My main Syclone is very reliable 11 second truck. I've beaten the crap out of it on a regular basis for at least 15k miles since I built it. I guess you could say I somewhat built it to take the abuse on a budget.

You need to carefully pay attention to the guys who's trucks actually run. You get all sorts of opinions from internet message board know-it-alls. Some of that info can mislead you and get you into trouble. Alot of those guys spend more time reading the internet than they do working on their truck. Also, if you don't do your own work, at least try to be involved with it, "hands on" if at all possible.

Also what I've seen get alot of people in trouble is being dumb with WOT. Obviously, you need to use common sense with driving any turbo car. The first thing that many people do is jump in and put the hammer down without knowing WTF is going on with the setup. I could easily blow up my engine in a few seconds just by filling up with 87 octane fuel, cranking the boost controller all the way up and turning off the alky and going WOT.




I just sold one of my syclones so I'm down to two now. One project and one driver. I also have pretty clean, stock Turbo-T. The Turbo-T probably sees 100 miles a year whereas my built syclone gets driven pretty hard a couple or few times a week. To me, the syclone is alot more enjoyable to drive than my buick which is the reason the buick sits around all year.




yes, that's the MP T-70 turbo that the DIY mustang guys use on the 5.0's. It REALLY woke my truck up over the PTE turbo I had on it before

 

[sy733]

if your looking for a good rep. builder go to www.syty.net and find a guy named jwaller hes good

I'm not trying to start any trouble with you or your recommendations, but I personally saw a vortec modded lower intake in Austin, TX that came from him. All I can say is The owner of it ended up not being able to use it.

 

[UR50SLO]

You need to carefully pay attention to the guys who's trucks actually run. You get all sorts of opinions from internet message board know-it-alls. Some of that info can mislead you and get you into trouble. Alot of those guys spend more time reading the internet than they do working on their truck. Also, if you don't do your own work, at least try to be involved with it, "hands on" if at all possible.

Very well put....

Seen alot of guys get toooo much from the internet or buddy's that don't have a clue. All the money needs to be put in the right area and the parts installed work together along with a good tune. Tune is going to be critical on any turbo setup.

Nice looking Syclone~!

UR50SLO,
How did using a paper clip to lock the converter toast the motor?

Jumpered into ALDL mode instead of lock converter pins. 18psi with ALDL mode... poof.

I'm just installing the 61dbb turbo right now... Hope to finish the downpipe today and drive it. Yippie!
~Scott

 

[dgoodhue]

I'm not trying to start any trouble with you or your recommendations, but I personally saw a vortec modded lower intake in Austin, TX that came from him. All I can say is The owner of it ended up not being able to use it.

Servando, its been a long time since I have seen you post. I heard you were into turbo Mustangs, now.

 

[dart21]

I guess you could say a Syclone is not for just anybody. My main Syclone is very reliable 11 second truck. I've beaten the crap out of it on a regular basis for at least 15k miles since I built it. I guess you could say I somewhat built it to take the abuse on a budget.

You need to carefully pay attention to the guys who's trucks actually run. You get all sorts of opinions from internet message board know-it-alls. Some of that info can mislead you and get you into trouble. Alot of those guys spend more time reading the internet than they do working on their truck. Also, if you don't do your own work, at least try to be involved with it, "hands on" if at all possible.

Also what I've seen get alot of people in trouble is being dumb with WOT. Obviously, you need to use common sense with driving any turbo car. The first thing that many people do is jump in and put the hammer down without knowing WTF is going on with the setup. I could easily blow up my engine in a few seconds just by filling up with 87 octane fuel, cranking the boost controller all the way up and turning off the alky and going WOT.




I just sold one of my syclones so I'm down to two now. One project and one driver. I also have pretty clean, stock Turbo-T. The Turbo-T probably sees 100 miles a year whereas my built syclone gets driven pretty hard a couple or few times a week. To me, the syclone is alot more enjoyable to drive than my buick which is the reason the buick sits around all year.




yes, that's the MP T-70 turbo that the DIY mustang guys use on the 5.0's. It REALLY woke my truck up over the PTE turbo I had on it before

Cool truck.

 

[sy733]

Nice looking Syclone~!

Cool truck.

Thanks guys. :biggrin:

Servando, its been a long time since I have seen you post. I heard you were into turbo Mustangs, now.

Hi Dave! :biggrin: I've really gotten into heavy equipment lately (yellow iron). Buying it cheap, fixing it up then using it and in a couple of cases, selling it. Fun hobby and they are a blast to operate.

here's a couple of project threads so you get the idea.
What should I offer for this loader? - Heavy Equipment Forums
New member, in search of a dozer - Heavy Equipment Forums
pics of a grader I stumbled upon - Heavy Equipment Forums


I built a DIY turbo stang for myself a while back and pitched in a little help getting two other ones running down here (one with a blowthough carb). I sold that red stang and am currently working on my current grey stang about once a week. The current one is highly modified whereas my turbo one was stockish with bolt ons.


below is a link to some pics and a few vids of that one. This is one very mean street car. I supercharged this one and went with a 351w based motor for increased power, strength and durability over the stock 5.0 block. It's almost done. I worked on it until 4:30am last night in my garage.



sy733/grey fox - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[Big Dave]

What drive belt are you using? Most A/C deletes use a pulley in place of the compressor. Your's is alot cleaner looking without the delete pulley.

 

[Big Dave]

Well, the 92 Typhoon I bought on 5-3-07 took a poo on 5-15-07. Twelve days and about 300 miles and it is knocking like crazy. Pretty sure it spun a rod bearing. Now I'm looking at lots of money for a rebuild. Sure wish it could have held up a little longer than that but oh well. What can you do, right? Should have stuck to my trusty Fords. lol Bobby

What part of the country are you in?

Race Proven Motors Shopping Cart

The link above is in California. Mike (owner of above) is very anal about what leaves his shop and if something did go wrong he is helpful with resolution.

Does the motor "knock" all the time? (idle, cruizing, WOT)

Sometimes people new to sy/ty's confuse detonation with other things. I'm not trying to say you dont know what your hearing just trying to understand it better.

Middle of the country you can try Rockford Racecraft out of Rockford Illinois, Eastern part there is McCoy Motorsports. Do a search, they both have websites.

 

[BOBBY263052]

I live in St.louis, MO. The engine is out of the truck now and being rebuilt by Mike Christiansen. He's got it torn apart now. Told me the crank and one rod are destroyed. The block did not get hurt though. Going to meet with Mike today to decide what direction to go in for the rebuild.

Bobby

 

[sy733]

What drive belt are you using? Most A/C deletes use a pulley in place of the compressor. Your's is alot cleaner looking without the delete pulley.

I bought an RPM delete kit a couple years ago but I couldn't get it to work right the way it came. The way their bracket clocks the LS1 tensioner doesn't allow the tensioner any dampening at all. I modified the RPM bracket to actually make the tensioner functional which required a much shorter belt than the one that comes with the RPM kit. If you need the belt part number or pics of my modification, just shoot me an email at utwtire(at)gmail.com and I can get that for you. This mod only takes about an hour to do.

 

[Big Dave]

I live in St.louis, MO. The engine is out of the truck now and being rebuilt by Mike Christiansen. He's got it torn apart now. Told me the crank and one rod are destroyed. The block did not get hurt though. Going to meet with Mike today to decide what direction to go in for the rebuild. Bobby

Sorry to hear it was a big problem. Post up what your going to do with the new build.

If your going to throw it back together as cheap as possible, I have stock rods and pistons out of a 90K mile sy/ty motor. The convertor balloned in the truck and caused the crank to walk. Motor was rebuilt with eagle rods and trw pistons.

You can have them for the cost of shipping.

In my rebuild, 3 used cranks were tested before finding a good one. I had it nitrated as well.

 

[Big Dave]

I bought an RPM delete kit a couple years ago but I couldn't get it to work right the way it came. The way their bracket clocks the LS1 tensioner doesn't allow the tensioner any dampening at all. I modified the RPM bracket to actually make the tensioner functional which required a much shorter belt than the one that comes with the RPM kit. If you need the belt part number or pics of my modification, just shoot me an email at utwtire(at)gmail.com and I can get that for you. This mod only takes about an hour to do.

email sent, thanks

 

[sy733]

I live in St.louis, MO. The engine is out of the truck now and being rebuilt by Mike Christiansen. He's got it torn apart now. Told me the crank and one rod are destroyed. The block did not get hurt though. Going to meet with Mike today to decide what direction to go in for the rebuild.

Bobby

Get a standard crank and have it machined using the specs/clearances I pasted below. Twice I've tried to use a stock 4.3 crank in standard and the main bearing clearances were way too tight the way they came. While you may get by, it could just as easily fail on you right away.

For the crankshaft, you need to find yourself one from a non balance shaft 4.3 engine be it from a regular 4.3 or syty specific motor and get yourself some L35 connecting rods at the very least. Stock syty rods will generally bend (fail) before a stock syty piston fails. A stock syty piston will normally fail before you bend an L35 rod. (I haven't heard of a L35 rod bending yet but anything can happen when you ping under boost). The L35 rods will need to have the wristpins pressed out to seperate them from stock 4.3 pistons. Don't plan on using the pistons from the L35 motor. You need to use stock syty pistons at the very least or some TRW's like Big Dave did. You can also buy the rods new from GM. Do a search for L35 rods at syty.net or google for a part number. I got a set of L35 rods out of a 2000 4.3 engine for a stockish build a while back. I think GM started using those rods from 93 up in non syty applications. If you manage to grab an old L35 motor, you could also bolt the heads onto your syty motor for a few extra HP. The L35 heads are better than stock. A dead giveaway to ID those heads is a half moon looking notch at the top of the intake ports on the heads where the injector would spray with an upper intake installed. On my built motor truck I used eagle h-beam rods and the JE severe duty pistons at 8.5:1 compression. Also I used the vortec heads from the 2000 4.3 motor but that required some extensive modifications to do.



Make sure your main caps are syty specific! Use them at the very least. ( I would go with 2 bolt billet caps at the very least though) They have the letter "N" cast into them I believe. Personally, I went with Diamond racing billet racing 4 bolt caps on my center two. Use ARP bolts/hardware where you can. Don't use cometic head gaskets. Use the stock syty replacement head gaskets (victor?) And if for some crazy reason you decide to use head studs, go with high temp loctite #567 to seal them!! Been there done that.


Also, be careful with who you mix up with when it comes to socalled "syty vendors". Do your homework, use the search feature and PM people for feedback before you get involved with anyone that claims to be a "vendor"! Starting a thread about this at syty.net is useless because for the most part, people that have been screwed are too afraid to step up and publically report their bad experiences. There are a couple guys out there that have screwed many people over and will not hesitate to screw you. Very seldom will a bad guy get called out, but when they do, many uneducated people tend to jump on the bandwagon to defend the individual for the reason that "syty vendors are rare and non existant these days."


Besides, you don't need to be sending your motor halfway across the world just to find out something is wrong when you get it back and install it then you have to pull your engine and send it back. Get the work done by a local reputable machine shop and be prepared to check his/her work at least with a plastigauge on your rod/main bearings. The plastigauge isn't the most accurate measuring tool but it will alert you to obvious BIG problems before you go and install the engine in the truck and spin a bearing.


I hope this helps and if any of my above info is inaccurate, someone please let me know so I can correct it!!


Here's some specs for your builder to go by:

Type: V6
Disp.: 262 C.I. (4.3L)
Horsepower: 280 BHP @ 4400 (Syclone) 285 BHP @4400 (Typhoon)
Torque: 350 lb-ft @ 3600 (Syclone) 350 lb-ft @ 3600 (Typhoon)
RPO: LB4
Bore: 4.00
Stroke: 3.48
Comp. Ratio: 8.35:1
Firing Order: 1-6-5-4-3-2
Oil Pres. (Min) 6 psi@ 1000 RPM, 18 psi@ 2000 RPM, 24 psi@ 4000 RPM
CYLINDER BORE:
Diameter: 3.9995-40025
Out of
Round: .001 (production) .002 (service)
Taper: .001
PISTONS:
Clearance: .0015-.0030
PISTON RING: Compression: Groove Clearance: .0012-.0032 Gap: .010-.020 (top) .010-.025 (2nd) Oil: GC: .002-.007 Gap: .015-.055 PISTON PIN: Diam: .9270-.9273 Piston Clearance: .0002-.0007 Rod Fit: .0008-.0016 Interference
CRANKSHAFT:
MAIN JOURNAL: Diam: #1 2.4484-2.4493
#2 #3 2.4481-2.4490
#4 2.4479-2.4488
Taper: .001 max
Out of Round: .001 max
MAIN BRG. CLEARANCE: #1 .0010-.0015 #2#3 .0010-.0025 #4 .0025-.0035
CRANK END PLAY: .002-.006
CRANKPIN: Diam: 2.2487-2.2497
Taper: .001 max
OOR: .001 max
ROD CLEARANCE: .0013-0030
SIDE CLEARANCE: .006-.014
CAMSHAFT:
LIFT +- .002 Intake .357 Exhaust .390 Journal Diam: 1.8682-1.8692 End Play .004 -.012
VALVE SYSTEM:
Lifter Hydraulic Rocker ratio 1.5:1
Lash Adj. One turn down from zero Face Angle 45 deg.
Seat Angle 46 deg.
Runout .002 max
Seat Width 1/16 to 1/32 Stem clearance .0010-.0028 Spring length 2.03 Valve Spring Pres. 76-84 lbs @ 1.70 in Closed 194-206 lbs @ 1.25 in
Open Installed height 1 23/32
Valve Spring Damper: Free Length 1.86 # coils 4