Same Stuff You've Heard For Years.. but,

[benoitthegr8]

First of all; Turbo, Turbo, Turbo...
Second; Why are you running a 70mm TB with a mostly stock set up? this will only hurt your spool...
Third; The stock intercooler is not sufficient, atleast get a dutt-neck or a stock location stretch...

Really re-think your set up, spend some cash have some one who knows how to tune set it up and forget about it...

 

[gnman87]

answers

70mm set up.. thought process.. bigger is better

Intercooler is duttneck.

jp

 

[Thumper]

Take a look at the tps, it needs to be adjusted to .42- .44 idle, 4.90 at wot, 4.59 or about that area, the car does not now its wot, change the fuel pump to a new walboro and change the o2 sensor. Then let us know how it does.

Thanks
Bill

 

[Fuelie600]

If your FP gauge is accurate, than your fuel delivery is insufficient. Your FP only increased 14 lbs with 19 lbs boost. Check fuel pump voltage and/or condition. Does your fuel pressure drop off ANY under WOT in third gear? Also, if those posted #'s are in park/neutral, the IAC's are somewhat high. Adjust your hot ( in park/neutral ) IAC's down 10-20 counts, and reset your TPS to .42 at idle. Brian

 

[Dusty Bradford]

My opinion. The tps is fine .44 is close enough and anything over 4.4 or 4.5 at wot is enough to let the ecm know your standing on it.

Has the knock sensor ever been removed? It needs to be torqued to the proper setting to read correctly. Your readings do not look to bad except for the knock. It should not be knocking with your boost and O2 readings.

I agree about the fuel pressure gauge. Either it's reading off or you have a pump or supply issue. Either way it's not causing a lean condition from what we can see.


I hope you are ignoring the recall #'s on the scan master. They will not read correctly 90% of the time because of how it looks at the info. You will need to watch the scan master when at wot and see what the readings are doing during that time. If you can't do it get a buddy to ride with you. It's a good chance that knock may have just spiked when you went wot and the scan master stored it because it was within the tps requirement to store it.

 

[Grumpy]

with the mods I have (listed in my sig) I should be eating the Viper for dinner... easily.

jp

sorry Viper is goin to kick your butt ..

 

[gnman87]

I don't think so Grump

The Viper is 400 flywheel HP... with the setup I have on the Buick, I should be at 425-450. Should be smoking it.

jp

 

[Hawaiian Turbo]

Are you sure that's TRUE knock? Not at the shift point, DP hitting something?

 

[derek]

stall and cam?

IMHO 3000 stall seems way too high for a stock turbo. Who recommended that cam because I wouldn't touch a cam until I talked to someone who was experienced with TURBO buicks. What's good for a SBC or SBF won't do for these beasts. I would talk to a reputiable TB vendor about your combo and get the big stuff fixed first.

 

[gnman87]

got the crank

and cam from BWeavy. As you know, he's very reputable in this community. It's not shift point knock.. but, I don't know about downpipe hitting something. Long story short.. I do NOT know it's true knock.

jp

 

[BandAid]

Ok I stopped reading after you said something about a SC vette and Viper ........................

Stop being a cheap arse :wink: ,get a Walbro 340,te44,50lb injectors ,and your mods list is not that extensive ,most of it is "show"
Peace....

 

[gnman87]

Okay..

I'll buy that I can go bigger on the turbo and injectors.. but, saying the rest of the mods are show.. come on.. this is good stuff, no?

 

[BandAid]

87 GN - KB 70mm Throttle Body and Plenum
RJC Power Plate for KB 70mm Set up
Hooker catback exhaust

Jay Carter Alcohol Injection (slightly modified)

LT1 MAF and MAF Translator
Postons 3" downpipe


Hotwired fuel pump--but get a Walbro340
204/214 cam
3000 stall lock up converter

Billet adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator


this is your good parts,, :wink:

need fuel filter ,50lbs ,turbo, clean intercooler

 

[INTERCOOLED]

What made you do a cam but keep the stock turbo?


Not trying to flame, just wondering about the mod choices you have made. Like the 70mm Throttle Body, Plenum, etc.

I know that you have to start somewhere, but I would've done a turbo with those injectors, etc.

 

[gnman87]

the

turbo and injectors were done before I bought it. When I broke the crank and the engine was out.. I had a couple of extra bucks to do the cam. Figured I might as well -- Also did the timing chain and gear.

jp

 

[INTERCOOLED]

Makes sense. I figured that there had to be a rebuild in there somewhere.

Anyway, if you really want the car to produce the kind of power you are wanting and not have to worry about SC Vettes and Vipers, then you should make a turbo change. My favorite is a 3200 Stall, 50 lb injectors, and a PT-54.

Then you'll be puttin' the Whammy on all kinds of stuff!

 

[gnman87]

okay

so, pt-54? or TE-44? I'd like to stay with the stock style wastegate setup.. it's what I'm familiar with.

jp

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Both have the same style wastegate, depends on how big of a convertor you have and how quick you want it to spool.

I had a 44, went low 11s, upgraded to the 54 and went slower.....at the time it wasnt tuned and never went the same.

Your 95 dodge viper must be a dead ringer, i whooped one really bad from a roll in my mostly stock TTA, that was a fun night :biggrin:

Get a chip from eric if you dont have a stand alone engine management system..
BW

 

[VadersV6]

Hey guys.. just took the car out. Here are some observations.

line off fuel pressure = 45 -- I don't know why.. but, that's what it is. you're thinking it should be 42?

boost = 19psi -- again.. don't know how it got there.. but, I'm going to crank it down

fp at wot is NOT 64 as it should be.. it's 59..

WOT 02 = 808
WOT KR = 6.1

these numbers are at idle
AF = 08
L8 = 58
BAT= 13.2
INT = moved around a bit.. from 123-135
BL = 92
CLT = 168 after driving for a bit
ATS = 127
RPM = 800
TPS = .44 WOT 4.58
IAC = 51
cc = 107
NAL? = 00

what do you think?

jp

AF is very high. At warmed up idle, my AF is between 2 and 3. I think you have a MAF problem. There is no reason you would be using that much air at an 800rpm idle.
L8 is high (load). Dont know why. Is your A/C clutch stuck on? Ive seen high L8's but thats the highest Ive seen. Mine is between 20-28.
BLM's are very low. It will lock at 90, and the computer will no longer be able to adjust. So here we have a very high AF number at idle, along with low BLM's. It looks like the faulty high MAF reading is causing too much fueling. This makes you really rich which drops BLM's way down. I guarantee you are hitting 90 at times and locking out.
TPS is fine.
IAC is high. Do the IAC adjustment procedure on gnttype.org. Do it verbatim.
What MAF are you running? If you have the stock one, and look inside at the strain guage, (brownish transparent film thing)...if its all wrinkled looking, its NO GOOD. We designed and made (well I did), a strain gauge calibration machine (a robot uses a super fine lapping compound to make the strain gauge thinner and change the calibration). If a strain gauge is wrinkled, its beyond hope.
Regardless, there is something wrong with your MAF and/or translator if you are running one. If you have atranslator, what version is the translator, and what settings do you have?

 

[chris2316]

i say back to basics,check all hoses for cracks,etc !compression test or leak down , skip alky and tune on race gas, fuel pressure at w.o.t check,plugs? check coil readings, etc! i think personally your motor is tired! let us know.