Running 180 instead of 160 t-stat.

[TurboBuRick]

Hot motor + cold air + cold fuel = MORE POWER!

Once a thermostat is open, it's up to the cooling system to be up to the task. If temp go way beyond the thermostats opening temp, the cooling system is the problem.

 

[robzombie]

Except if you have a TT chip, his by default turns your fan on at 165*, so if you have a 180 stat, the fan is going to run all the time.

Yeah and you get luke warm heat as well, I've had to unplug one of the fans to get a little heat.

I have a BB chip and can raise fan turn on temp, I have it set to turn on at 175* and it turns off at 170*.

I have to check and see what the highest temp on the chip is for fan turn on and at what temp it will turn off so I can buy the right T-stat to avoid a constant fan run situation .

 

[jim0207]

My cooling system is completely brand new. New motor ect. I live in Maryland were temps vary from 28 in the winter to 100 in the summer and always with 70 percent humidity. My temps in the summer at cruse was 160-170, stat opening and closing. But, at stop lights it would climb to 200 and take a long distance cruse to lower the temp back to 160-170, some times temp would not return to 160-170, only to 180. Not so drastic in the winter. I am running a 160 stat. This past summer I drained my coolent and refilled with distilled water 4 times. The 5th time I added RMI 25. I no longer have temp spikes at stop lights. Winter is now here. I drained the radiator and added 100 present anti-freeze. The more anti-freeze the higher the boiling point. Think linear, if my boiling point in higher so is my stop light temps and harder to remove heat.

 

[TTipe]

The 160 stat deal started when "Don Kiger" (at Buick) was selling people "worked" chips in the 80's. (I'm not sure they were worked at all). The idea was to lower the coolant temperature so the ecm coolant temp sensor would fatten fuel (obviously before people understood fuel requirements and the relationship to knock). The idea in my mind is which temperature range gives the best "homogeneous" displacement of fuel for a complete and efficient burn. Running too cold may allow carbon build up (promoting hot spots & detonation) and fuel droplets rather than vaporization. Vapor makes better power and reduces the tendancy to knock as long as fuel delivery, spark tables , and octane make sense. Everyone's running conditions & configuration are different so trial and error may be required.

 

[GNICETRY]

My car runs too cool with the 160* and this is my second one too. I will be going to a modified 170* or 180* next time. Been reading too much about how the optimum engine temp is 170-180*ish. My cooling system is pretty bada$$ though I went a little overboard.

Here is a link: http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html

 

[longball]

[quote="Here is a link: http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html[/quote]

That article appears to be 10 years old - perhaps there is new updated data? On the other hand - some things never change.
I've been considering switching back to 180 - but have not found any of what I consider to be definitive data.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Modded thermostats (hole drilled) are not necessary. The s hose right next to it lets fluid bypass.

 

[hawkfan]

Modded thermostats (hole drilled) are not necessary. The s hose right next to it lets fluid bypass.

This is the first time I heard this. I drilled a small hole in my 180 stat. I thought the purpose of drilling the hole was to make it easier to get air out of the coolant system.

 

[Jack Parl]

I live in MD, have 180* stat , was seeing temps aproach 200* or more on a hot day.
Plan was to install 160* stat
After reading these posts , maybe having a complete cooling system check would be better place to start. Sure gets HOT with an 82 sport coupe turbo and A/C running!

IllhaveaV6