Rookie FP Question -1st time tune

Rdirks

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2006
What is the easiest way to measure fuel pressure for tuning purposes?
I have an adj FP reg but no gauge.

Total instumentation at this point includes scanmaster 2.1 and a boost gauge in place of the factory clock and the idiot lights. This is intentional - the interior is meant to look as stock 1965 as possible. For a while (until I bothered to read the Scanmaster instructions) I thought I ha FP covered by looking at the L8 setting (I was reading it as LB) - I did mention I was new to this -right?

I'm going to guess the best way is underhood mech gauge? Can I mount this under that cap at the end of the ds fuel rail?
Isthat where the Shreder valve is? Does the SV come out when doing this?

Thanks.
 
I have an older Poston's mechanical gauge on mine that has braided hose running to the gauge. I have it zip tied near the master cylinder. Yes, you have to remove the valve, but it is easy. I just bought a dollar tool at a bike store that lets you unscrew the valve easily. Don't mess with trying to tune for fp with a scan tool unless you can mechanically set it with a gauge. You have to be able to have an accurately set baseline. Most people go with 43psi with the vac line disconnected from the fp reg. Tune from there with your scan tool.
 
The chip you have will determine what your idle setting should be but modern chips like Turbo Tweak & Extenter start at 43 line off. Make sure you put the line back on before driving it!
 
Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Just so I'm clear - If I went with the gauge w/ a hose -it would be for tuning purposes only -right -you would not normally drive around with it taped to the windshield?

Also - the chip comment brings up one of my issues - I'm not exactly sure what chip is in my car except that it was supposed to be for a mostly stock set-up. The handwritten paperwork I have from the guy I bought the motor from says "Performance Comp Chip" -so far I have had no luck positively ID'ing it.

I would really prefer not buying a new one at this point because I expect to upgrade injectors/turbo soon after I get it running right in "stock" trim. Can setting fuel pressure @43 do any harm assuming an older mild performance chip?

Thanks again.
 
Current Set-up

In case it helps, this is the current set-up:

Car 1965 Sklark 2dr Sedan Aprox(3300lbs)

Engine
Stock 109 Longblock (87 GN -Aprox 50k)
New Gaskets and Seals
New Steel Timing Chain
New 100lb Valve Springs
Stock GN Airbox w/ K&N filter
Stock Throttle Body
Stock ECM w/ Modified Wiring Harness

Fuel System
Rick's Hot Rods custom SS fuel tank w/Internal baffles for EFI
Walbro GSS-340 in-tank pump
Hot-Wirekit
New lines and GN filter
Billet Fuel Regulator
Lucas 2 hole 30lb Injectors (5207009)

Intake/Turbo
Stock Airbox/MAF
Stock Throttle Body
Stock Intake
Stock Turbo
Stock Intercooler
Adj. Wastegate

Exhaust
Stock Headers
2.5" SS Downpipe
3" Torque Tech Single (1/2 of V-8 Kit) w/ss Hardware
No Cat
Super DynoMax 25" Muffler

Cooling
195 degree thermostat
Custom Radiator
Dual electric fans

Chip
Performance Comp Chip (??)

Trans/TC
Dynotech HiPro 200R4
Trans. Cooler
Pro-Torque 9.5 Lock-up Converter W/Billet back 2800 STALL
Inland Empire Custom Aluminum Drive Shaft

Rear/Rear Susp.
Currie 9" 31 spline Tru-trac w/ 3.50 gears

Front Susp
Stock Rebuild Kit w/rubber bushings
Hotchkis 1" Lowering Springs
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

Rear Susp
Currectrac Rear Control Arms (Upper and Lower)
Hotchkis 1" Lowering Springs
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

Brakes
Baer MC/Prp Valve
F- Baer Serious Street 11" Discs (Manual)
R- 11" Drums (Ford)

Wheels
Buick Rallies 15x7

Tires
R- 235x60x15 MT Drag Radials (26.1")
F- 225x60x15 BFGoodrich TA Radials (25.62")

Instrumentation

Scanmaster 2.0
VDO Manual Boost Gauge
 
How much boost do you have on the car now. I would take it easy because the chip may have too much timing for 93 octane.
 
I have it set @ around 12-13 and since the chip is a mystery, I have 10 gal of 110 Cam 2 in the tank as insurance. I have not seen any knock at this point.
Cam 2 is probably not doing much for me performance wise but it sure smells good.:biggrin:
 
The guage is taped to the window for testing only. Then you can carefully stow it somewhere under the hood or remove and replace the schrader until you want to test again. You want to see that the pressure is rising 1 pound of fuel pressure per 1 pound of boost.
Sounds like a nice car. How about some pics.
 
The guage is taped to the window for testing only. Then you can carefully stow it somewhere under the hood or remove and replace the schrader until you want to test again. Be careful that the hose doesn't come in contact with the alternator fan. :eek: You want to see that the pressure is rising 1 pound of fuel pressure per 1 pound of boost.
Sounds like a nice car. How about some pics.
 
Thanks again for the help folks. Here are some pics from a few weeks back before I did the brakes......

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Aren't 100# valve springs too strong for a stock cam? Also, most T-R owners use a 160* thermostat, not a 195*.
 
Nice use of LC2 power in that ride.

I have my gauge zip tied to the steel brake lines by the master cylinder. It's out of the way and fairly clean.
 
Whats best to use when connecting the fittings to the fuel rail? Plain old teflon plumbers tape?
 
In case it helps, this is the current set-up:

Car 1965 Sklark 2dr Sedan Aprox(3300lbs)

Engine
Stock 109 Longblock (87 GN -Aprox 50k)
New Gaskets and Seals
New Steel Timing Chain
New 100lb Valve Springs
Stock GN Airbox w/ K&N filter
Stock Throttle Body
Stock ECM w/ Modified Wiring Harness

Fuel System
Rick's Hot Rods custom SS fuel tank w/Internal baffles for EFI
Walbro GSS-340 in-tank pump
Hot-Wirekit
New lines and GN filter
Billet Fuel Regulator
Lucas 2 hole 30lb Injectors (5207009)

Intake/Turbo
Stock Airbox/MAF
Stock Throttle Body
Stock Intake
Stock Turbo
Stock Intercooler
Adj. Wastegate

Exhaust
Stock Headers
2.5" SS Downpipe
3" Torque Tech Single (1/2 of V-8 Kit) w/ss Hardware
No Cat
Super DynoMax 25" Muffler

Cooling
195 degree thermostat
Custom Radiator
Dual electric fans

Chip
Performance Comp Chip (??)

Trans/TC
Dynotech HiPro 200R4
Trans. Cooler
Pro-Torque 9.5 Lock-up Converter W/Billet back 2800 STALL
Inland Empire Custom Aluminum Drive Shaft

Rear/Rear Susp.
Currie 9" 31 spline Tru-trac w/ 3.50 gears

Front Susp
Stock Rebuild Kit w/rubber bushings
Hotchkis 1" Lowering Springs
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

Rear Susp
Currectrac Rear Control Arms (Upper and Lower)
Hotchkis 1" Lowering Springs
Edelbrock IAS Shocks

Brakes
Baer MC/Prp Valve
F- Baer Serious Street 11" Discs (Manual)
R- 11" Drums (Ford)

Wheels
Buick Rallies 15x7

Tires
R- 235x60x15 MT Drag Radials (26.1")
F- 225x60x15 BFGoodrich TA Radials (25.62")

Instrumentation

Scanmaster 2.0
VDO Manual Boost Gauge

Nice car. Please go to the hybred section and find slider. He's been trying to get hold of someone that's done this exact thing. He hasn't had a lot of luck so far.
 
hello; Man, is there alot of room in the engine bay. That's quite a project you got there and should be nice when your done.
The truth is with me I like a V8 in a car like that with a nice cam rumble that they can have.
Keep at it and it will be something to be proud to own.
Keep the forum imformed.
IBBY
One more thing I remember going to that big swap meet in Penn. and this guy had a XKE he put a blown V8 in. It was weird but if it floats your boat do it.
 
How much should the pressure drop after you re-connect the vac hose?
When set at 43 with hose off - goes to 33-34 when I put it back on.
Seems like a big drop?? Normal?
Car is running great and all scanmaster numbers seem right on.
Just learning.....
 
The fuel pressure port on the rail has a schrader valve in it just like a tire valvestem. The fitting is a male -04 AN.
My Snap On fuel pressure test kit has an adapter hose that screws right on the end of the fuel rail. As you tighten it on, it depresses the schrader valve, allowing pressure to go to the gauge.

You could also completely remove the valve, leaving just the male -04 AN exposed... then screw a -04 AN hose on it... with the other end attached to a FP gauge. NO teflon tape is needed at the fuel rail.
 
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