Roller Cam...What is involved?

[Smokin-6]

I want to run a roller cam instead of a flat tappet. What needs to be done for the switch? I have a stock motor and am looking for a set of heads to port but I am not sure of what needs to be done for a roller setup. Thanks

 

[bogies87]

I know Full Throttle has roller cam set ups with everything needed to run one. I believe it comes with the cam, lifters, timing chain. I do not think anything else is needed to install. There was a post at one time talking about a torrington bearing set up for the front of the block but not sure if its needed.

 

[just plain john]

Check the forums at Full Throttle, they probably have a thread about it

 

[that national]

full throttles kit comes with cam, lifters, push rods, springs and retainers, and the roller cam button

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

You will need to have the boss's on the heads milled for clearance, and while you have the heads off, good time to upgrade the heads or at the minimum a 3/5 angle valve job, fresh springs.... if you go with champion iron heads they are already milled from the factory. I went roller rockers at the same time, with roller rockers you can really dial the lifter preload to spec's.

Chuck

 

[BlackBandit]

When you say bosses do you mean valve towers? If so you only need to mill them if you're running too much lift. I think if you keep the lift below .500 you can just leave them. (double check that life number) That means if you just want to make the switch you can just leave the heads on and swap the springs, install the cam and lifters, and set cam thrust. The full throttle kit comes with pushrods but bottom line is you need to get a pushrod checker and measure to make sure you get the correct preload. That's about it. Roller rockers would be good but are not necessary and the preload on them is no more accurate than measured pushrods on a stock setup. Heavy duty rocker shafts are required IMO though. If you want the roller rockers you have to grind some of the rocker pedestals down. Again, this can also be done in the car if you're careful. That's how to do just that. I agree with 84BuickGNYorkPA about the quality valve job. IMO if you do decide to do this you might as well pop the heads off and have a good valve job done at the minimum. Be careful though as a job like this can really snowball on you. If you have a stock cam that's working I would get another set of heads ready and do it all at once.

 

[psycho6cyl]

Only advice I can give is stay away from Comp Cam Roller Lifters. Plenty of threads on here about it. I did my lifters 3-5 times cant remember before I got a qiet set I could live with. Still a little noisy. imho. Morrel I heard is the brand to go with. Maybe the vendor you choose will swap em out and set you up w right pushrod length etc. Good luck.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I think he is talking about the stand off's the roller rockers bolt to but you don't really need roller rockers. Stock rockers will work.

Valve springs can be changed on the car. Proper push rod length needs to be determined. Fullthrottlespeed has the tool as well.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Only advice I can give is stay away from Comp Cam Roller Lifters. Plenty of threads on here about it. I did my lifters 3-5 times cant remember before I got a qiet set I could live with. Still a little noisy. imho. Morrel I heard is the brand to go with. Maybe the vendor you choose will swap em out and set you up w right pushrod length etc. Good luck.

IMO All roller lifters are going to be a little noisy. You can thank the cross bar that connects a pair together. Nature of the beast.

 

[Jerryl]

Like most have said above.
Get a full kit from a vendor, someone who knows these cars.
I would NOT try to piece it together. Too many horror stories.

Comp cams have a bad rap with dirt grease, etc.
Morrel have a bad rap with some of the cross bars not being correctly riveted.
The builder MUST check EVERYTHING, period!
It will be 100% your responsibility that the quality of the product is sufficient for your expectations.

Don’t take this the wrong way, but since you asked what is involved, my advise for roller install is:
By the time you change springs, check lift, remove heads, install and torque ARP bolts/studs. Etc. . . . . . pull the motor, and get some help on the engine stand. While you have it pulled, replace the bearings, and go through it.


If the stock cam is good . . . . . depending on your goal . . . . . I would leave it in and run GOOD OIL, with fresh springs.
Good luck.

 

[BlackBandit]

The builder MUST check EVERYTHING, period!
It will be 100% your responsibility that the quality of the product is sufficient for your expectations.

this is the truest statement of the thread! FWIW I run comp lifters and I don't find them noisy at all. you can hear the crossbar but as stated that's the nature of the beast. I also spent the time to clean the crap out of them (literally ) and also MEASURED EVERYTHING AND SET THE CORRECT PRELOAD.

I sometimes wonder how many people that havenoisy lifters just bought a kit and put it in without cleaning parts and setting preload.

EDIT: I also agree just run the stock cam until you're ready to take the engine apart. Odds are it's not holding you back.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

When you say bosses do you mean valve towers? If so you only need to mill them if you're running too much lift. I think if you keep the lift below .500 you can just leave them. (double check that life number) That means if you just want to make the switch you can just leave the heads on and swap the springs, install the cam and lifters, and set cam thrust

Yes the valve stem boss's for clearance, and if you go with aftermarket valves then the OD (Outside Diameter) needs machined to accept valve seals. If I was going through the trouble of going to a roller set-up I would want some performance increase and that would include more lift on the cam profile then stock.

Chuck

 

[BlackBandit]

Yes the valve stem boss's for clearance, and if you go with aftermarket valves then the OD (Outside Diameter) needs machined to accept valve seals. If I was going through the trouble of going to a roller set-up I would want some performance increase and that would include more lift on the cam profile then stock.

Chuck

While you can definitely gain performance with a roller cam without going overboard on the lift I understand what you're saying. I just wanted the OP to know that not all roller cams require it. Sorry if I put you off in any way.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

While you can definitely gain performance with a roller cam without going overboard on the lift I understand what you're saying. I just wanted the OP to know that not all roller cams require it. Sorry if I put you off in any way.

No offense taken, everyone has a different angle on every subject, best to throw them all out there and let the thread starter make up, his/her own mind.

Chuck

 

[Smokin-6]

Thanks for the reply's. My original motor has some metal in the bottom of the pan (Wiped cam lobe??) So I have a spare GM factory short block that has no cam. So this is why I am looking to purchase a new cam. I am trying to buy the remaining pieces so I can do the swap. Thanks